Those of you who are curious: all 16 valves were bent to varying degrees, one had a fair sized chunk out of it (intake valve). The seats and guides were fine, the shop replaced the valves and seals. If anyone wants to see the valves, I could snap some pictures. Maybe sell some souveniours? lol.

How did you destroy the valves?

Those of you who are curious: all 16 valves were bent to varying degrees, one had a fair sized chunk out of it (intake valve). The seats and guides were fine, the shop replaced the valves and seals. If anyone wants to see the valves, I could snap some pictures. Maybe sell some souveniours? lol.

How did you destroy the valves?

I'd like to know that myself. There was no evidence of interference on the pistons - not even scuffs in the carbon. The timing chain is fine, the timing was perfect. The guy at the head shop said it could have been from an exhaust leak at the manifold, but how would that bend the intake valves?

I never even drove the car hard once it started burning oil - which was a very long time ago. after putting in new rings i just wanted it to run so I never have driven it hard since then.

Some of you may remember me... About a year ago, I put new rings in me 01 Prizm - thankfully, it still doesn't use oil (about 12k later). It's been using a lot more valves lately, though - I just spent $1k replacing all 16. That was just the head shop's bill :/ (granted it was in canadian $) It seems to be running okay now, there was no interference (the carbon on the pistons wasn't even scuffed). All my ECU codes have cleared up now, except I still have P1346/P1349. I'm looking for thoughts on whether I should go ahead and chuck $70 on a camshaft position sensor, or if I'm better off doing the VVT oil control valve. The thing is, I damaged the valve (cracked it a little). Apparently there's a TSB on this issue - but I don't have a clue where to find the TSBs (without paying for them).

The second thing I'm wondering is, does anyone have a parts motor I could buy these pieces off of?

Those of you who are curious: all 16 valves were bent to varying degrees, one had a fair sized chunk out of it (intake valve). The seats and guides were fine, the shop replaced the valves and seals. If anyone wants to see the valves, I could snap some pictures. Maybe sell some souveniours? lol.

What engine do you have?

 

I have lots of parts in my yard.

1zzfe since its a 2001.

dangit, i cant get in to my back door. will try again tomorrow to get the buletin for you (if i remember)

aaron

1zzfe since its a 2001.

What parts on the 1zzfe are the same as on the 4A-FE or the 7A-FE, if any??

 

 

What parts on the 1zzfe are the same as on the 4A-FE or the 7A-FE, if any??

probably none - the CPS and OCV are parts of the VVT system :/ last time i checked at my dealer they couldn't even find a part number for the OCV.. i can get a new CPS for $80 but i'm trying to find used first...

1zzfe since its a 2001.

What parts on the 1zzfe are the same as on the 4A-FE or the 7A-FE, if any??

 

maybe some nuts and a couple bolts.

 

 

haha.. I just noticed i put the wrong OBD codes on this post... they're 1346 and 1349...

1zzfe since its a 2001.

What parts on the 1zzfe are the same as on the 4A-FE or the 7A-FE, if any??

 

maybe some nuts and a couple bolts.

 

I have plenty of those.

 

 

I found some used stuff - I'm going to replace the whole vvt system - OCV, CPS and the VVT unit on the camshaft (bet that's going to be a bitch to unbolt). I'll let you guys know how it runs after all's said and done, and if those damn codes go away.

Good news, guys - I replaced the oil control valve, and used my new scangauge 2 to turn off the CEL - drove it about 30 minutes and it didn't come back on - still fairly inconclusive, as I understand the test cycle is every 2 startups for these codes.

On a side note, the scangauge ii is awesome! I googled up group buys for it (found one at a hummer site) and paid $149 for mine - I missed out on a GB for $130 earlier this month. I have to say, this thing is well worth it.

I checked my compression today - 138 135 132 138 ... the numbers are ######, but at least they're all close to each other.. maybe my compression tester isn't working right (i can only hope)... before i had the head rebuilt, number 2 (135) was getting 185 while all the others had 0... go figure.. I'm trying some auto-rx so that's why i was doing the compression check... i'll let everyone know how the auto-rx does

Good news, guys - I replaced the oil control valve, and used my new scangauge 2 to turn off the CEL - drove it about 30 minutes and it didn't come back on - still fairly inconclusive, as I understand the test cycle is every 2 startups for these codes.

On a side note, the scangauge ii is awesome! I googled up group buys for it (found one at a hummer site) and paid $149 for mine - I missed out on a GB for $130 earlier this month. I have to say, this thing is well worth it.

I checked my compression today - 138 135 132 138 ... the numbers are ######, but at least they're all close to each other.. maybe my compression tester isn't working right (i can only hope)... before i had the head rebuilt, number 2 (135) was getting 185 while all the others had 0... go figure.. I'm trying some auto-rx so that's why i was doing the compression check... i'll let everyone know how the auto-rx does

It will be interesting to see if the codes stay away and if your compression improves.

 

Keep us posted.

there had better not be a problem with the valves/seats!! I just replaced every single valve and had the head rebuilt.. Interestingly, the valves don't ping now that the VVT is fully functional. Hopefully the auto-rx will fix up the compression - if not, it wouldn't be the end of my world, the CEL is off now, the car runs good and it burns no oil

got an update - mileage is a tiny bit better, last night when i started it (it was like -30F, engine was still 44F) i got my first P0420 - i cleared the code and it hasn't popped back up. I've done some experimenting with speeds vs mileage - and best i can tell is it feels like the cat may be clogged up from burning oil for so long. ie 12mph difference (68 vs 80) means 5MPG difference (30 vs 25). It improved a tiny bit on the way back (about .8 mpg but at both speeds). It gets about 39 mpg @ 36mph and 34mpg @ 55mph..

But I don't wanna buy more parts!!!

got an update - mileage is a tiny bit better, last night when i started it (it was like -30F, engine was still 44F) i got my first P0420 - i cleared the code and it hasn't popped back up. I've done some experimenting with speeds vs mileage - and best i can tell is it feels like the cat may be clogged up from burning oil for so long. ie 12mph difference (68 vs 80) means 5MPG difference (30 vs 25). It improved a tiny bit on the way back (about .8 mpg but at both speeds). It gets about 39 mpg @ 36mph and 34mpg @ 55mph..

 

But I don't wanna buy more parts!!!

That sounds like good mileage (MPG), but the compression readings were too low.

 

Is it possible the compression tester didn't read correctly?

possible, and I don't have a good way to test it.. I'm going to check again after my auto-rx treatment and see where the numbers are. I've got another 1000 miles or so, so about 2 weeks from now I'll be changing the oil and testing compression again. I'm gonna change my tranny fluid at the same time - and if the weather isn't godawful cold, I'll flush out the old fluid too. Not something I'm even remotely willing to do when it's -30F. If it's still cold, I'll just change the fluid, and do it again in another 5 or 10k miles. Not worth losing fingers over..

If the compression numbers haven't budged by then, I'll go get another tester at walmart and double check it. It's still not burning any oil, thank god. I got another P1346 this morning, cleared it, and it didn't come on after a prolonged series of shopping trips today - I'll change the VVT unit and the camshaft sensor when I get a chance. (the CPS is easy, the vvt unit is a bit of trouble).

Hopefully I'll see 30-40psi difference on the cylinders, and a bit more after the auto-rx rinse.

Bikeman: the numbers sound better than what i have been getting, but in colorado i got used to getting a solid 38-39 doing 65-70 through mountains. But that was at 9000+ elevation. My city mileage ends up being about 18mpg - acceleration just kills it, far more than it should.