Rear Disc Conversion 7th Gen

iirc you get the discs from a 6th gen and then have to do some machine work and change the rear spindles so the calipers can bolt on.

some 6th gens have rear disc? hmm ya would prolly be cheaper to do it myself, cause 800 seems alot of money but i guess you pay for convenice ya know, anyone have pictures of a 6th gen rear brake setup

whats the wilwood website?

g'day,

my car (ae112r h/back conquest) is udergoing rear disc swap from a corolla ae102r h/back conquest. snap some pictures and done measurement on the donor axle carrier seems to be spot on. the good thing the donor car is not abs equipped w/c is same w/ my car and the master cylinder and the tubings set-up are similar. will keep you posted once i finish working on it.

rey t

For those of you swapping to discs, you need to keep in mind that your proportioning valve was not likely built to properly disperse hydraulic fluid to the rear as well as the front.

actually it'll release to the rear first, it trips at something around 100psi, which is pretty light in reality. its really not that big of a deal and is probably best left alone.

Yeah, not much can be done other than a larger bore PV. I swapped in a disc brake axle in my jeep and left the stock prop valve and the brakes work quite well.

I just thought I would bring up the topic...

g'day,

i have done an initial set-up last friday of the donor axle assembly on the car itself and it is pretty spot on. the hand brake cables bolting locations up to the hand brake equalizer is also spot on (just have to remove few fasteners on the middle exhaust heatshield and i can attach the wheels parking brake cable).

I have done cleaning and initial checks on the caliper assembly and found one of the slider pin and bolt is bent (due to mishandling during the transfer from the wreckers holding yard going to the disassembly bay i suppose) but i gone back to the wreckers and got a replacement from a toyota celica. also check for any signs of misalignment (none whatsoever) and the rubber parts are still acceptably ok but i will ultimately purchase a minor caliper repair kit to replace all of the rubber components. (luckily 5 years ago i got hold of a haynes brake manual which will be put to work soon). had also check conditions of the hub axle bearings and its quite dry and repack it w/ grease.

had ask a price quote for a Bendix general CT (ceramics) pads because the old disc pads is 75%worn out.

on the status of the rear disc rotors, when i got hold of the price tomorrow i will decide if i will reface it (actual measurement is 8.8mm/standard is 9mm/scrap thickness is 8mm) or purchase a new rotors. had check the lateral run out and its about 0.15-0.2mm.

if time permits due to my social and religious obligation maybe i will swap it this coming weekend or if not on the first week of july (1 week holiday from work)

rey t

g'day,

did the brake swap this afternoon and it is actually a bolt off/bolt on affair actually. did it around 4 hrs (both rear wheels) but had leave the hand brake cable unattached and did the brake bleeding to see if it is functioning properly.

yep it is working ,but it engages after 3-4 kicks on the brake pedal which is abnormal. had re do the brake bleeding many times just to make sure air is purge in the brake lines and it is pretty good actually.

any suggestion about the problem?

i will visit the wreckers tomorrow to look for the donor car again if it is still there to get the master cylinder and the proportioning valve if the price is within budget.

pls visit this site autospeed.drive.com.au/cmc/A_2296/printArticle.html

when you do get a good pedal, does it slowly sink if you keep it applied or does it always stay low and soft?

g'day,

when you get a hard pedal after 3-4 kicks it stays w/out sinking.

doing the same thing 3-4 kicks then start the engine and the pedal goes down slowly meaning the brake booster is doing alright.

p.s

sorry fish the handbrake cable is not an issue here. actually i done attaching the right rear up to the handbrake equalizer, but i think i need to slacken the handbrake adjuster more when i will attach the left rear.

g'day,

had finish the complete rear brake swap today. except i could not run it because of the spongy/long brake pedal travel. had gone back to the wreckers yesterday to remove from the donor car the master cylinder and the pressure modulating valve and the metering valve and replace the stock set-up but the problem would not go. bleed the master cylinder and the wheel calipers which all air is purge but same problem in fact had consumed 1 litre of brake fluid for this . a mechanic friend of mine drop by to check my job and could not find a fault, but he is very sure there is an internal leakage in the brake master cylinder (fluid is passing thru the piston).

had called up the parts store today but they dont have a stock for a repair kit and could not get the parts needed because there parts source is close during sunday.

what i did today,finish up the park brake installation (works perfect) and remove the donor car master cylinder from the car, dsassemble and check the inside components. the inside bore is perfect no scratches and scoring except the rubber on the front piston is very soft that you could not feel any resistance when you slide in the bore.

also do the same w/ the stock master cylinder when i disassemble it but find out that bore diameter is bigger compare to the donor car.

the donor car master bore dia is 13/16" while the stock is 7/8" diameter. all other shape and dimensions are similar. also the pressure modulating valve hole diameters of the donor is around 2mm while the stock is around 1.5mm.

because of this i am contemplating to use the stock master cylinder given the fact that the AE112 corolla is a little bit heavier w/ the AE102.

i want to ask your concession and advise w/ this guys am i doing the right thing in here?

rey t

jst had my brake fix. the problem i had is i install the left caliper to the right and the left to the rear. all the the bleeder valve is facing downward, because of this even though when you bleed the brakes and you got no air present, the fluid is unable to occupy the whole caliper fluid chamber. (thanks w/ the help of a new friend which happen to be a very good and experienced mechanic).

i also ask him if i will reinstall the stock 7/8 inch master cylinder (i install the 13/16" from the donor car), he told me i that i will experience a different pedal feel (softer pedal). the 13/16" feels a little bit sensitive because it create more pressure. (venturi effect).

Now that your taking about brakes, I have an offer out there for everyone that has an 8th gen corolla. I recently talked to Jerry from the design and engineering department at Brembo. He will manufacture a kit for the 98 corolla for me, the catch is I have to purchase 6 kit from him. But I only need one. The kit consists of a 13inch drilled and slotted rotors in the front with a 6 piston caliper, and the same 13in rotor in the rear with a 4 piston caliper. We aren't sure yet but you might still be able to retain the E-Brake function, the only mods you would have to do to the car is remove your OE Master cylinder and replace it with a dual one. If any one is interested just post a reply here and I will consider purchasing the kits from him.

Yes, and if you want a kit you will need some deep pockets, as it will cost me aporx. $8,250.24 per kit or approx. $49,501.44 for all six, keep in mind that is for all 4 wheels. There is one more thing on fitment you will need atleast 18'' wheels to clear the calipers. I'll keep you posted to to see if i can harras him to give me a better deal as I see that wilwood has stepped up to the plate.