Sounds like your 4AFE is just fine - it is not unusal for an older engine or one with lots of miles to run pretty decent on higher octane. The carbon deposits are effectively raising your CR slightly and creating "hot spots" that could cause detonation. That's why the owner's manual is worded in that manner - 87 octane or higher - best way is to fill the tank with increasing grades of octane until you find one that doesn't ping under normal driving conditions.

You brought up another point, I am always confused by the differences between "pinging" and "knocking" I'm not sure if I have ever heard these sounds or what they really sound like; I wish there was some website with an audio file of pinging versus knocking. I do know that when I start up, I hear a high-pitched flapping noise coming from the area of the intake manifold/EGR valve: it's quite loud at first, and drowns out the lower-toned valve sound coming from the valve covers. Once the car gets warmed up, then the sharp high-pitched flappy sound diminishes but never fully goes away. I haven't taken apart the air hose to check the throttle body/IAC valve, but I suspect this may be related to that. Or does anyone have other ideas? I'm still a noob at DIY mechanics.

 

 

Sounds like your 4AFE is just fine - it is not unusal for an older engine or one with lots of miles to run pretty decent on higher octane. The carbon deposits are effectively raising your CR slightly and creating "hot spots" that could cause detonation. That's why the owner's manual is worded in that manner - 87 octane or higher - best way is to fill the tank with increasing grades of octane until you find one that doesn't ping under normal driving conditions.

You brought up another point, I am always confused by the differences between "pinging" and "knocking" I'm not sure if I have ever heard these sounds or what they really sound like; I wish there was some website with an audio file of pinging versus knocking. I do know that when I start up, I hear a high-pitched flapping noise coming from the area of the intake manifold/EGR valve: it's quite loud at first, and drowns out the lower-toned valve sound coming from the valve covers. Once the car gets warmed up, then the sharp high-pitched flappy sound diminishes but never fully goes away. I haven't taken apart the air hose to check the throttle body/IAC valve, but I suspect this may be related to that. Or does anyone have other ideas? I'm still a noob at DIY mechanics.

 

 

Pinging and knocking are the same thing. What you are describing sort of sound like lifting tick to me. You could try to clean it up with some sea foam. Put 1/3 of a bottle in your crank case before you change your oil. Just read the direction. Pretty decent stuff.

I am converting my car to run on water.By subjecting the water to radio waves it makes it combustible and fuel efficiency is a lot cheaper.

 

If anyone else would like to do the same, let me know. Salt water gives it more power than fresh water.

The oil companies don't know about it yet, but if they do find out - they might offer to buy me out.

can you imagine when the secret gets out and people no longer need a petroleum based fuel?

At first I thought is was a joke, but then I read a report and saw a video ; perhaps, it takes more energy to make the salt burn than one gets out of it?

I am converting my car to run on water.By subjecting the water to radio waves it makes it combustible and fuel efficiency is a lot cheaper.

 

If anyone else would like to do the same, let me know. Salt water gives it more power than fresh water.

The oil companies don't know about it yet, but if they do find out - they might offer to buy me out.

can you imagine when the secret gets out and people no longer need a petroleum based fuel?

At first I thought is was a joke, but then I read a report and saw a video ; perhaps, it takes more energy to make the salt burn than one gets out of it?

Just the opposite. Salt water puts out more energy than fresh water and hence more power.

 

Not a joke - a true alternative fuel that people are developing. Let's do away with gas stations and oil companies!!

I just got back from Baja, and the Corolla ran fine. I've been running 91 octane for the past 1000 miles, and despite a modest increase in horsepower on hills, there has been no change in fuel economy. Still get 24 mpg in pure city driving, 30-31 on the highway which was what I was getting before (I wish there was some way to turn off the 4WD when I don't need it). Thus, the two week experiment to test whether or not premium fuel increases gas mileage has shown that it, in my car at least, there is no appreciable benefit from using 91 octane over 87 octane, but my wallet sure is a lot thinner. So, I'll probably switch back to 87 octane.

Pinging and knocking are the same thing. What you are describing sort of sound like lifting tick to me. You could try to clean it up with some sea foam. Put 1/3 of a bottle in your crank case before you change your oil. Just read the direction. Pretty decent stuff.

I assume after putting in the Sea Foam, I should run the engine for a bit (but not drive it anywhere), to circulate the Sea Foam?

Lastly, does anyone know a way to remove spark plugs that seem stuck? I wanted to change the plugs before driving down; it's been about 2 years since I last changed them. But I can't seem to get them to budge. I suppose I could apply more torque, but I don't want to break them off in their socket. Can I apply some sort of "Liquid Wrench" to them, or is this harmful to do since whatever I add will run into the cylinder head/ignition chamber? Perhaps use some petroleum-based loosener since that will be simply combusted when the engine is fired up after replacement of the spark plugs?

 

You could try some BP Blaster. You won't hurt anything. You will just burn it up. Just be sure the BP Blaster is not going past the plug in large amounts. To the point that you would hydro lock the engine. Very unlikely. Just start it up if your not sure and burn the stuff off while your using it. Your exhaust will smoke something scary, but don't worry.

You just have the correct socket and use plenty of force. As long as they are staright, they will come out.When they are new and put in, there is a crush washer that makes them tight. To get them out, takes more force.

Plugs have a washer, but it isn't a crush washer. Find the torque specs for your plugs. They wouldn't even be enough to crush a crush washer.

Someone over tightened them way too much. Using gobs of torque trying to remove stuck plugs on a aluminum head could damage the head.

Someone over tightened them way too much. Using gobs of torque trying to remove stuck plugs on a aluminum head could damage the head.

The plugs were put in by a local shop as part of a quickie tune-up. At that time (late summer 2005), I had to drive to Phoenix on very short notice, didn't have time to do it myself, and so I decided to have a tune-up done before the long, hot (120 F) drive through the summertime desert. Interestingly, the car ran much better in the high heat than in normal SoCal weather.

 

 

You just have the correct socket and use plenty of force. As long as they are staright, they will come out.When they are new and put in, there is a crush washer that makes them tight. To get them out, takes more force.

Plugs have a washer, but it isn't a crush washer. Find the torque specs for your plugs. They wouldn't even be enough to crush a crush washer.

Someone over tightened them way too much. Using gobs of torque trying to remove stuck plugs on a aluminum head could damage the head.

Plugs do have a washer, and the name may not be "crush", but they are compressed when the plugs are installed.

 

You do have to use some torque to unscrew them from the heads. There is no other way to get them out.

They are screwed in, and they are screwed out. If they are supertight (because someone overtorqued them when installing,

they will need some force to get them out.

You just have the correct socket and use plenty of force. As long as they are staright, they will come out.When they are new and put in, there is a crush washer that makes them tight. To get them out, takes more force.

Plugs have a washer, but it isn't a crush washer. Find the torque specs for your plugs. They wouldn't even be enough to crush a crush washer.

Someone over tightened them way too much. Using gobs of torque trying to remove stuck plugs on a aluminum head could damage the head.

Plugs do have a washer, and the name may not be "crush", but they are compressed when the plugs are installed.

 

You do have to use some torque to unscrew them from the heads. There is no other way to get them out.

They are screwed in, and they are screwed out. If they are supertight (because someone overtorqued them when installing,

they will need some force to get them out.

Why did you wake this guy up?

Yes, the only way they will come out is to back them out. The problem is, aluminum is very soft and the treads might have gotten smashed. The threads could be damaged making it impossible to install new plugs.

The only options are to try, but be ready to get a spare head just in case. Or, if the plugs don't NEED to be changed right now, try and wait it out.

I don't know off hand, but I'd try to investigate the materials of the plugs. Try and found out if them expand faster or slower then aluminum. If the plugs expand slower, then heating up the engine, and attacking the plugs during warm up might help.

Plugs are have a spec torque of around 12 lbs. So, major over tightening is WAY out of spec.

Holy thread revival.

 

I have ran premium in my rolla as well and it seemed to have a tad bit more power and idled a bit smoother.

With that said, the amount of miles I could go on a tank (same temperatures, same driving style, same destination) was shorter with premium than with 87.

I wilf have to give 89 a try, I don't know if I have EVER used 89 in my life.

 

I think if the car was not designed to run on a certain grade of fuel it wont make that much of a diffference.

for example i had a 01 Eclipse GT that was designed to run 93oct.

it would run if i put 87 in there, but it would act like i put Diesel in there!!.

with that said, i dont think a car that was specifically egineered to run 87 will make better use of it unless it has some mods added in the mix. .

i personally have tried all grades of fuel in my corolla(designed to run 87oct) just to realize the only difference was in how much i spent!!!!! haha.

it might burn the fuel a little faster with a higher octane fuel, but it wont be too noticeable.