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Wiring For A Trailer.

by Bikeman982, January 23, 2006



Bikeman982

I have a 1993 Corolla that I installed a trailer hitch on and would like to know what I can do about the wiring for the trailer. I have one of the 4-pin connectors on the trailer and would like to mount a connector onto the car. I imagine I would have to splice into the taillight wiring to get working connections for the tail lights and also the brake lights as well as the blinkers. Should I just splice in, run the wires thru the spare tire area (maybe make a hole) and then mount the connector under the bumper somewhere? Anyone have wiring for a trailer and how is it connected electrically??

My little trailer also has the 4-pole connector. I just picked up a 4-pole connector hardwire kit to splice into the existing wiring. The kit comes with inline splice connectors, connector, instructions, and enough wiring to allow me to run the connector out the trunk to the trailer. I just keep the wiring coiled up in the spare tire well, when not in use - when connected to the trailer, the trunk will close over the wires (doesn't hurt it at all). I didn't want to punch any extra holes into the car.

You guys tow with a corolla?!?!?!? What do you tow? I towed a light weight sports car and a trailor once with a 3.8l Ford and it had trouble with it.

I tow a little 40" x 48" mini-trailer every once and a while. Great for light loads like an a couple sets of wheels for autocrossing, trips to the hardware/lumber yards, picking up a gas drive electric generator, etc. Recently - I got one of those bike racks that fit inside the receiver end - better than lashing the bikes to my roof rack (easier loading/unloading). It does suck down the speed when you travel - when I had about 700lbs on the trailer - max speed on the highway averaged about 45-50MPH. You just have to plan accordingly.

I had several trailers in the past, and I had to pick up a special wiring kit with a little black box between the splice and the connector. Many trailers share one bulb filament for both the brake lights and the turn signals. But if you splice into each one separately on your car, it won't work properly. The diodes in this little box allows everything to work correctly.

Bikeman982

My little trailer also has the 4-pole connector. I just picked up a 4-pole connector hardwire kit to splice into the existing wiring. The kit comes with inline splice connectors, connector, instructions, and enough wiring to allow me to run the connector out the trunk to the trailer. I just keep the wiring coiled up in the spare tire well, when not in use - when connected to the trailer, the trunk will close over the wires (doesn't hurt it at all). I didn't want to punch any extra holes into the car.
Did you have to splice into each wire on the taillights, or just a few from each? I have seen wiring that just hangs over the trunk and for occassional use it is probably fine. I would like to keep a clean look on the car, even when towing and was thinking of something more permanent for the trailer wiring (hence the hole thru the spare tire area). I would put a gasket around the hole for the wiring to prevent water from getting in. There is also connectors that can be mounted underneath that you just plug the trailer into. That's kind of what I am wanting.

 

 

On mine - there were three separate circuits (one for brakes, one for running lamps, and one for each turn signals). I'm pretty sure that the Corolla has separate turn signal lamps and brake lamps. Like Slalom44 mentioned - they make a little black box or some module that will convert the common bulb system, found on most small trailers, to work with the independent system on most tow vehicles. Otherwise - you may not get it to work correctly or pull too much current through those wires. I made my switching box - but you can buy them brand new for pretty cheap. Kits start out at about $25 for all the wiring, connectors, and instructions.

unless you have standard,,, i would not recommend towing

say over 600 lbs with a corolla.

Bikeman982

On mine - there were three separate circuits (one for brakes, one for running lamps, and one for each turn signals). I'm pretty sure that the Corolla has separate turn signal lamps and brake lamps. Like Slalom44 mentioned - they make a little black box or some module that will convert the common bulb system, found on most small trailers, to work with the independent system on most tow vehicles. Otherwise - you may not get it to work correctly or pull too much current through those wires. I made my switching box - but you can buy them brand new for pretty cheap. Kits start out at about $25 for all the wiring, connectors, and instructions.

I will look around for the trailer wiring kit that has the switching box. My Corolla tail lights have 4 lamps and it could get complicated trying to determine which ones to splice into as well as causing a a current drain.

Bikeman982

Here is an option worth considering. I've boutght several hitches from these guys, and I've been very pleased:

http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?model...=Toyota&t1=&h=e

I have the Draw-Tite Taillight converter that I bought from them as well (first one shown). It works great:

http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant...egory_Code=ELEB

That's amazing because that is exacly the place where I purchased my hitch from. I didn't purchase the wiring but it looks like that would be a good thing to do.

 

 

unless you have standard,,, i would not recommend towing say over 600 lbs with a corolla.

 

Why do you say this? I have a manual and am considering getting a trailer hitch. But I thought it would be real easy to burn up the clutch while towing.

Bikeman982

I have not really towed anything with my automatic Corolla b ut I think it could handle a little more than 600 LBS.

The reasonable limit is 1000lbs IMO. Beyond that, it's a real workout for the engine and brakes. The clutch was never a problem if you drive smart... don't ride or slip the clutch. I once towed about 1500lbs (Toyota recommended limit) and it was fine until I got to any uphill grades on the freeway, then 4th was needed for even 70mph.

I used a simple wiring kit on my corolla. I installed a more advanced kit on my Accord which uses a seperate power source for the trailer. I tied it into the aux. power circuit (cig lighter, etc). The lights seem a little brighter with this set-up.

My Accord 2.4L 4 cylinder tows easier, but I still wouldn't tow over 1000lbs, and it's an automatic, so I have to pay attention and downshift out of O/D if the torque converter is staying unlocked up a incline to avoid overheating the tranny. The new 5 speed automatic on this car howver seems pretty good about staying locking up.

I think you could tow 1000lbs fine also with a Corolla automatic, but you again would need ot pay attention ot the RPM's. IF hte torque converter stays unlocked, you should turn off O/D. Toyota trannies always seemed very ready ot unlock the torque converter. It was a problem on my parent's 2.2L '92 Camry that they used to tow a 1500lb (loaded) pop-up camper with. ON a side note... the '92 Camry easily out pulled the 1989 3.8L V6 Taurus wagon my parents had before that. "The recall machine" is the last American car my parents will ever own. It was a true F.O.R.D. (Fix Or Repair Daily). The tranny on that car couldn't handle it's own weight more or less a trailer.

Bottom line, it depends on the overall set-up of the car. I had good results pulling 1000lbs with a '91 Toyota Tercel. It had a torquey motor, short gearing and a bullet proof engine and tranny. The brakes however made it fee like a locomotive... you work hard to build up head of steam and watch out... because she ain't stopping for nothing.



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