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Weight?

by smashinghead, September 30, 2005

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I have a 1994 corolla 4a-fe. I wanted to know what the weight was and if modifying would be worth it.

Should be similar to the other 7th gen Corollas - about 2500lb and some change.

Depends on what type of modifications you were looking for - what kind of gains do you expect.

I was thinking about maybe a turbo. I think this would be my best bet. I am open to sudgestions.

Depends on what budget you have set. Someone on another forum has recently setup and is in the process of tuning his 7th generation Corolla (1.8L) and is now running 5.5PSI. Putting up some good numbers for a first time - but set him back about $6K for install, parts, tuning, etc.

For a little less - you could opt for a engine swap (4AGE 16v and 20v variants, 4AGZE, and 7AFE) are all good candidates for swap - minimal modifications swap-wise, almost drop in. Depending on your area's emission regs and condition and completeness of the donor engine - could run anywhere from $500 to $3000 plus install costs.

How much does an 8th-generation (1998-2002) Corolla weigh? Where are these specs listed? Has anyone here actually taken theirs to be weighed on a large scale?

Thanks, Max! default_smile

I have a 1994 corolla 4a-fe. I wanted to know what the weight was and if modifying would be worth it.
http://corollaperformance.com/

 

4A-FE

1.6 liters (1587cc)

100hp (SAE net) @ 5600 rpm

105 lb-ft torque (SAE net) @ 4400 rpm

(5-speed manual overdrive) = 2315

(3-speed automatic) = 2359

(4-speed electronically controlled automatic overdrive [ECT]) = NA

your best bet is to lookup club4ag's site and talk to them, they really know the 4A engines the best and will have alot more performance advice than we can offer (no offense, but this is a "i broke such and such how do i fix it?" or "how do i change my oil?" site)

Bikeman982

I am replacing the 1.6L 4A-FE engine in my 1994 with a 1.8L 7A-FE engine. I have another 1994 that has the larger engine and to me it is a big difference. I would suggest that as a simpler, cheaper way to get a little more power.

the hp and tq differences are small between the 4a and 7a, its the powerband that makes it feel alot more powerful.

the 4afe just doesnt have torque below about 3000 rpm at all, where as the 7afe has peak torque at about 2800rpm and carries that power all the way to the next shift.

Bikeman982

I have a 1994 corolla 4a-fe. I wanted to know what the weight was and if modifying would be worth it.
What does weight have to do with modifying it?

 

 

generally the heavier the car the more power you have to make to make it feel faster.

a 300hp corolla vs a 1000hp Peterbuilt Semi.

Bikeman982

generally the heavier the car the more power you have to make to make it feel faster.

a 300hp corolla vs a 1000hp Peterbuilt Semi.

I didn't think that their was much difference in weight in all the Corollas.

 

 

Yeah, the 7A-FE is a great little engine. My 1993 Geo Prizm LSi 5 SPD manual has that engine and the performance is great.

7A-FE

1.8 liters (1762cc)

105hp (SAE net) @ 5200 rpm

117 lb-ft torque (SAE net) @ 2800 rpm

Bore = 81.0mm

Stroke = 85.5mm

CR = 9.5:1

Curb weight: 2403lbs

Nice little site that explains in greater depth about the engine:

(http://www.corollaperformance.com/TechInfo/Index.html)

I have an excel table at school showing how fast the engine is spinning in any gear at speeds that increase in intervals of 5 MPH, i.e., 10 MPH, 15 MPH, 20 MPH.

With the wheel circumference in feet, the gear ratios of the C52 transmission, and a mathematical formula everything was pretty simple. I can post a screen shot if you're interested when I go back to school either Sunday or Monday.

The torque is there at RPMs from 2800 - 5200. A couple of days ago when I was driving home I decided to shift just before redline in 2nd gear and boy does that little engine pull. It's like there's a whole new engine at RPMs > 4500.

Bikeman982

Yeah, the 7A-FE is a great little engine. My 1993 Geo Prizm LSi 5 SPD manual has that engine and the performance is great.

7A-FE

1.8 liters (1762cc)

105hp (SAE net) @ 5200 rpm

117 lb-ft torque (SAE net) @ 2800 rpm

Bore = 81.0mm

Stroke = 85.5mm

CR = 9.5:1

Curb weight: 2403lbs

Nice little site that explains in greater depth about the engine:

(http://www.corollaperformance.com/TechInfo/Index.html)

I have an excel table at school showing how fast the engine is spinning in any gear at speeds that increase in intervals of 5 MPH, i.e., 10 MPH, 15 MPH, 20 MPH.

With the wheel circumference in feet, the gear ratios of the C52 transmission, and a mathematical formula everything was pretty simple. I can post a screen shot if you're interested when I go back to school either Sunday or Monday.

I would like to see it, since my car has the 1.8L as well.

 

 

I rounded the numbers a bit i.e., 983 RPM became 1000 RPM so there's some percent uncertainty, but there's percent uncertainty with everything, but I am just trying to get the general idea across.

Using the formula:

Speed (MPH) = (RPM x C) / (GEAR x FINAL X 88)

Where:

RPM = Engine RPM

C = Wheel Circumference (In feet)

GEAR = A particular gear ratio to check

FINAL = Final Drive Ratio

88 = Conversion factor

I know that my fifth gear ratio is 0.815 (off the top of my head), and the final drive ratio is 3.722.

Since my tire is 185/65R14 the circumference is:

Diameter of tire = 14" + 2 x [(185mm x 65%) x 0.0394 in/mm]= 23.47"radius = 1/2 x diameter = 11.735"

 

C = 2 x "pi" x radius = 2 x 3.1416 x 11.735" = 73.73" / 12in/ft = 6.144 ft

Rearranging the formula so I can input speed and get RPMs yields:

Speed x (Gear ratio x FINAL x 88) / (Cir) = RPMs

Say I want to find out what my engine is spinning at when I am going 60 MPH in fifth gear:

60 MPH x (0.815 x 3.722 x 88) / (6.144 ft) = ~ 2607 RPMs which is dead on because my tachometer is a little past the 2500 mark at that speed in fifth. I'll round ~2607 down to 2600 just because it's easier.

My fourth and fifth gears are very close together:

0.969 (4th) vs. 0.815 (5th)

60 MPH x (0.815 x 3.722 x 88) / (6.144 ft) = ~2600 RPMs

60 MPH x (0.969 x 3.722 x 88) / (6.144 ft) = ~3100 RPMs

~3100 RPMs in forth @ 60 MPH - ~2600 RPMs in fifth @ 60 MPH equals a difference of 500 RPMs.

Heh.

So you want more power from your AE102? Consider converting your stock 4/7A-FE engine to a custom 7A-G(Z,T)E! This single, yet extremely significant, mod will give you more gain than almost any other mods you could throw your money at, so if you're serious, you know what you gotz to do. The conversion entails swapping in the G cylinder head from a 4A-G(Z)E engine along with a supercharger (optional, designated as "Z"). Turbocharging is an option also. Sticking with the 7A block gives you the 200cc advantage. If you have the 4A-FE engine (1600cc also), the most feasible route would be to pull it out and swap in a 4A-GE (20 valver!), 4A-GZE, or 7A-G(Z,T)E. (A 3S-GTE might fit with a big enough shoehorn, but I won't even go into that.) The reason I recommend a complete swap is because it would be cheaper and result in a better engine than swapping heads on a 4A-FE. Sorry, but the 4A-FE has no intrinsic advantage. Talk about watered down. Furthermore, the 4A-FE block is not identical, although very similar, to the 4A-GE block. Why would you want to build an engine Toyota already built better?

Bikeman982

Man, that is some fancy calculations! I am just glad my car runs and gets me where I want to go.

Well it's useful to know what speeds your engine is spinning at in different gears because let's say you want to double clutch downshift into a lower gear. To know what RPMs your engine is at in that lower gear is essential so you know how much to "blip" the throttle while you're in neutral, i.e., clutch in, shift to neutral from the higher gear, clutch out, blip throttle matching the engine revolutions to that of the lower gear, clutch in (second time hence the word "double clutching"), and then move the shifter to the lower gear which completes the shift.

That's all done in one process; at least I hope I got the order right. Someone correct me if I am wrong -- heh, everyone makes mistakes.

So using my car as an example, let's say I wanted to shift from fifth to fourth because I want to pass or something.

I am traveling at 60 MPH in fifth so I double clutch and while in neutral I'll blip the throttle to ~3100 RPMs so the engine is already spinning at the correct speed. The transition would be smooth if done right because there would be less work on the synchronizers. You're basically doing the work of the synchronizers by "blipping" the throttle to the correct RPM for the lower gear.

Hope this makes sense.

Bikeman982

Well it's useful to know what speeds your engine is spinning at in different gears because let's say you want to double clutch downshift into a lower gear. To know what RPMs your engine is at in that lower gear is essential so you know how much to "blip" the throttle while you're in neutral, i.e., clutch in, shift to neutral from the higher gear, clutch out, blip throttle matching the engine revolutions to that of the lower gear, clutch in (second time hence the word "double clutching"), and then move the shifter to the lower gear which completes the shift.

That's all done in one process; at least I hope I got the order right. Someone correct me if I am wrong -- heh, everyone makes mistakes.

So using my car as an example, let's say I wanted to shift from fifth to fourth because I want to pass or something.

I am traveling at 60 MPH in fifth so I double clutch and while in neutral I'll blip the throttle to ~3100 RPMs so the engine is already spinning at the correct speed. The transition would be smooth if done right because there would be less work on the synchronizers. You're basically doing the work of the synchronizers by "blipping" the throttle to the correct RPM for the lower gear.

Hope this makes sense.

Makes sense to me, but I have an automatic! I used to ride motorcycles and that sounds familiar to me. My daughters have standards, but they never pass anyone!

 

 

generally the heavier the car the more power you have to make to make it feel faster.

a 300hp corolla vs a 1000hp Peterbuilt Semi.

I didn't think that their was much difference in weight in all the Corollas.

 

no, there isnt. i was trying to anologize why he was asking about weight. not so much between corollas but to compare to other cars to figure out how much power he would have to make to be equal to or greater then another car. the hp/lb of the car.

 

and yes the 7afe is a nice LITTLE motor. it responds very well to a free flowing intake and some advanced timing. when i changed my base timing to 15degrees btdc my idle got alot smoother and my powerband broadened out. that little pull of power at 30 in 1st gear turned into a smooth acceleration from about 20mph till about 35-38 mph and then you can just feel it begin to flatten out at about 40ish where it shifts to 2nd gear and it starts again, but in 2nd my rpms are closer to the powerband then from a deadstop at idle so the pull begins right away again.

however, i did notice that in 4th gear (yes ive spent time in 4th gear on the highway lol) i had NO power. even less than i had before i changed timin. why is this? advancing timing like this will shift the power to favor a lower rpm range which is good for around town and on the highway, but bad if you like to drive around in top gear with the peddal pegged to the floor all day. but its a corolla, you shouldnt be doing that with this car.

Bikeman982

I don't think I will change the timing on my car. I am satisfied with it's acceleration from a stop and it is definitely putting out some power when I stomp on the gas. Highway miles it just seems to sail along and it has enough power to keep up with the speeding traffic, and then some. I can't believe how big a difference there is just between the 1.6L and the 1.8L engine. I am happy with my cars performance and don't want to change a thing on it.

Bikeman982

I messed up the dates, should be 01/22/06 and 02/19/06:

http://s2.supload.com/free/Economy-20060219192305.jpg/view/

I did my dad's car:

http://s2.supload.com/free/maliburatios.jpg/view/

It's a 2004 Chevy Malibu LT

215/60/16 wheels.

His 90 MPH is my 60 MPH, heh.

So his engine is spinning at 2600 RPM at 90 MPH in fourth while my engine is spinning at 2600 RPM at 60 MPH in fifth.

I think it is time you design a 6-speed transmission and put it out into the market. I would like to be doing 1200 RPM at 55 MPH in a 6th gear!

 

 



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