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Oil Level Drops Dramatically Between Changes


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Guest raleigh

Hi guys,

I have a 96 Corolla 1.6L 4-door. Since last summer I have noticed the oil level drops between oil changes. Sometimes even after only 1000km since the last oil change.

I have sent the car to garage check for leaking and could not find any. And also there is no sign of oil burning.

It has been about 8 month like this. What I can do is try to monitor the oil level as frequently as I can, and whenever it goes below minimum, I add to it about 1.5L the same type oil.

Does anyone know the reason and where should I go to look for a solution?

By the way, I haven't change the spark plugs and p.c.v valvle for about 22,000mile (35,000km ). Is that could be the possible reason? clogged p.c.v valve?

The MPG is still ok, on freeway, it's about 29MPG. On local is higher but it seems ok.

The total mileage is 108800mile (175,000km) by now.

Thanks!

Raleigh

PS: just read the thread posted by bigkhua a while ago, seems the simillar problem as his/hers.......

Got a 1999 VE with about 93,000 and it uses about 1-2 quarts between changes.

I run an additive about every other oil change and that seems to help some, but the issue always come back. Other than that, the car is perfect and I hope I can squeeze the usual 150,000+ miles out of it.

Oddly enough, I find that the level drops much faster if I take a long trip, that is outside of my regular 30 mile commute per day plus regular driving.

Guest raleigh

I'll go change the p.c.v. valve this Thursday. see if it still drops after that......

friendly_jacek

I'll go change the p.c.v. valve this Thursday. see if it still drops after that......

Doubt if this helps.

 

Try different oils, like high mileage or a bit thicker. Try HDEO like Delo or Rotella. Try AutoRX.

With experimentation you can decrease the problem.

Guest raleigh

thanks friendly_jacek, As you expected. It didn't help after I changed the p.c.v valve. The oil level dropped again to almost empty.

Actullay it happened after a 500km drive. The next day I felt that I don't have enough power, so I stopped to check the oil. I didn't wait for the oil to flow back to the bottom. The measure is empty empty! I put 2 liter in immediately. Is that gonna do a big harm to the engine?

I'll try different brand oils and see.

Thanks again

Guest bigkahuna5000

Raleigh,

I have a 99 corolla with 101,000 miles on it. I have the same problem that you are experiencing. I was able to get the problem under control by adding a bottle of the valvoline max life oil additive. I'm not sure if it's totally under control since I've only tried it this last oil change. Since then I've gone about 2,000 miles and the dip stick is still showing full. Before I was adding at least a quart every 1000 miles. Good luck!!!!!

Guest raleigh

Thanks bigkahuna, I saw your post somewhere on this forum. I'll definitly try the product you recommended.

Thanks anyway and hope you get rid of this problem.

Guest Biscuit

I had the same issue with my '95 Corolla. After installing a new cam bearing seal I've gone from two quarts between change to 1/2 quart. She now has 178,000 on her. That's acceptable usage in my book.

Jeff T

I have a similar problem. I have a 2000 T. Corolla VE, with just over 42,000. I burn about a quart a week, and have taken it to the dealer several times:

The first time they told me (after informing me that I was three months out of warranty) that they could not find a leak, and then, after my insistance that there WAS a leak, they changed a seal ($115). The second time, they told me that I would need the engine rebuilt and that it would 'be expensive'.

After doing research on oil sludge, I took this information to the dealer, but "They" informed me that it wasn't a sludge problem, but due to a failure on the part of the owner (me!) to perform regular maintance (i.e., oil changes). (it's a 1.9 liter engine, not a 2.2L ???) I have but of course, I didn't have the reciepts (who keeps those? "me" from now on!), and the company I use for oil changes is under new management and doesn't have the records from the old owners. sigh.

The head mechanic at Toyota told me that if I could prove regular oil changes, he might get Toyota to 'help out' with the costs!!! But I can't so I'm sunk there.

So now I'm taking the car to a private mechanic, who has already done more for the car then Toyota. He found one leak, through oil on the engine, but the problem persists. again, sigh! i take it back in tomorrow.

Talk about frustrating!!! Oh, by the way, the PCV valve is ok, there is no 'smoke' from the exhaust -- although there is 'soot' and residue on the bumper above the tailpipe, and no signs of leaking on the driveway. I also bought some oil 'stop leak' from Wal-Mart, but it didn't seem to help.

  • 320 posts

First, be VERY careful with oil additives and heavier oil.

Neither is a solution. Both are masking a problem.

If you find the oil caked around the exhaust, you have a leak into the engine, possibly through the O-rings.

Emissions tests can be your friend. Hydrocarbon counts near or above the limit indicate among other possibilities bad O-rings. I'd suspect this rather than an external leak if you lose oil on long trips.

Is there any oil under the car? Did you check obvious things like the valve cover gaskets?

You should not be going through a quart every 3,000 miles much less more than that. Period. My 1999 Corolla never leaked enough to even show on the dipstick witih 6,000 miles between changes. My 1995 Neon, with 101,000 nasty city miles on barely-paved streets, didn't lose so much as a quart between its 7,000 mile changes. So my anecdotal evidence of n=2 shows it's not normal default_wink (I could run through a list of ALL the cars I've owned and I've NEVER lost a quart in 3,000 miles, even with terribly leaky valve cover gaskets and rear main seals!).

That said, yes, I'd get a GOOD replacement PCV valve, check the hose for blockages, make sure there's no oil in the air cleaner, and change the PCV filter as well as the valve. You can use a dealer PCV valve/filter or NAPA Gold or something... no Fram!! (AC/Delco and Deutsch are probably OK.) PCV valves are (a) cheap and (default_cool easy to replace. The grommet (about $2) may also need to be replaced... see if it's leaking air. The car repair manuals all tell hwo to diagnose PCV systems.

Make darned sure this is documented at your dealer (you guys who posted have already done so) - and don't hesitate to call Toyota USA at their 800 number to ask THEM for help. Dealers are often people who don't care or don't know. Toyota may well refer the problem to an engineer. That may be how they find out about a problematic part that they replace for everyone...

PS> Actually I *did* have one car that blew threw oil, and that was a 1976 Camaro with athe 305 V8. It had bad rings but that usually resulted in a "typical GM" cloud of blue smoke on startup. (Now it's not typical of course but back then - I owned it around 1987-88 - lots of cars still had that engine and still did it.)

Dave,

To tell the truth, I never did have much hope for the additives. However, one of the mechanics at Toyota told me (quietly) to add a quart of Dexron Transmission fluid to the oil, because it had more additives and cleaners than oil, and since I was loosing oil anyway, what could it hurt! (I didn't have the nerve to do it, however, and opted instead for additives/cleaners/stop leaks made specifically for oil!)

Legacy Toyota does not have a good reputation for auto repair here in town. In fact, everyone I spoke to so far said that one reason they have not bought a Toyota is because of their reputation in fixing cars. I do know that I will not be buying another Toyota, either from them or anyone else, as long as they are the only 'game' in town.

Plus, for me, they are just too darn expensive. Their hourly labor is over $118, more than twice what local mechanics charge. which is one reason I have not taken my Corolla in to the dealer since I bought it until now, prefering a neighborhood shop for my oil changes, tune-ups, alignments, etc. which backfired on my as they changed owners and had a computer glitch which lost most of my records. As a librarian, I don't make 'big bucks', and have to scrimp and save anyway I can.

Oh, and no, I haven't noticed any oil dripping or pooling on the ground or driveway, just notice the loss via checking the dipstick. Three mechanics have checked the pcv valve and found it to be in good shape.

friendly_jacek

Dave,

To tell the truth, I never did have much hope for the additives. However, one of the mechanics at Toyota told me (quietly) to add a quart of Dexron Transmission fluid to the oil, because it had more additives and cleaners than oil, and since I was loosing oil anyway, what could it hurt! (I didn't have the nerve to do it, however, and opted instead for additives/cleaners/stop leaks made specifically for oil!)

Legacy Toyota does not have a good reputation for auto repair here in town. In fact, everyone I spoke to so far said that one reason they have not bought a Toyota is because of their reputation in fixing cars. I do know that I will not be buying another Toyota, either from them or anyone else, as long as they are the only 'game' in town.

Plus, for me, they are just too darn expensive. Their hourly labor is over $118, more than twice what local mechanics charge. which is one reason I have not taken my Corolla in to the dealer since I bought it until now, prefering a neighborhood shop for my oil changes, tune-ups, alignments, etc. which backfired on my as they changed owners and had a computer glitch which lost most of my records. As a librarian, I don't make 'big bucks', and have to scrimp and save anyway I can.

Oh, and no, I haven't noticed any oil dripping or pooling on the ground or driveway, just notice the loss via checking the dipstick. Three mechanics have checked the pcv valve and found it to be in good shape.

I am not sure about ATF, but try AutoRX (google is your friend), totaly safe and may unstack the rings. Also use HDEO universal diesel/gas oils like 15W40 rotella, dello, or delvac. You will loose a few MPG but gain more cleaning action and less oil loss. It is possible that the prolonged/irregular oil change intervals caused stucks rings and such. But again, make sure there are no external/seal oil leaks.

What about all those oil sludge articles on the forum? Suppose your oil started to sludge, would the oil level read less and less? Not trying to panic anyone, I'm just curious what the early symptoms of sludge are.

What about all those oil sludge articles on the forum? Suppose your oil started to sludge, would the oil level read less and less? Not trying to panic anyone, I'm just curious what the early symptoms of sludge are.

My problem, according to the Toyota dealer, is not sludging. Nor according to the mechanics I've visited with the problem.

However, my mechanic says he now knows where the problem is, so I take it in Tuesday for an extensive changing of seals around the timing thing-a-ma-jig. I'll let y'all know if this fixes it (estimated cost: $516.25).

Jim, I'm not sure that it helps or just frustrates you. Even though you don't have the receit of oil change, the mechanics may keep the records that they changed your engine oil. Ask them if they have the records.

However, I wish your good luck.

Wonsoon

  • 320 posts

Agreed. BTW remember - the dealer is NOT the last word. Toyota USA is. Don't pay out of your own pocket until you've called Toyota itself.

Jim,

Most likely you have the stuck piston ring problem, which happens in some 98-02 corollas. If you had the powertrain warranty (5 year/60000) when you first reported it to the dealer, I would ask them to escalate it to Toyota. Toyota ended up replacing the rings on my 2000 VE under warranty. If you are out of warranty, I would try the valvoline max life engine protector additive (one person on this board claimed it to have helped)

sv11

  • 320 posts

Good God, I was right about something!!

Ok, just finished up with my mechanic (NOT Toyota dealer, idiots refuse to even talk intelligently to me, just saying "We have to rebuild the engine and it will be expensive").

He noticed oil around the timing chain and cover. So today he removed the cover and changed the timing cover gasket, and, he said that as he removed the bolts, oil came pouring out (he said it was as if he'd taken the plug out of the oil pan!). There should have been no oil in there at all. So it looks as if that was the problem.

However, we won't know for sure until I drive it for a while.

Cost to me this time: $497 and change.

Again, I'll let y'all know.

Jim

Still waiting, but I did have to add 1/2 quart Saturday, but that might have been 'oil settling' in due to the repairs, I'll know better by the end of this week.

Jim,Most likely you have the stuck piston ring problem, which happens in some 98-02 corollas. If you had the powertrain warranty (5 year/60000) when you first reported it to the dealer, I would ask them to escalate it to Toyota. Toyota ended up replacing the rings on my 2000 VE under warranty. If you are out of warranty, I would try the valvoline max life engine protector additive (one person on this board claimed it to have helped)

 

sv11

Dealer mechanic won't do a thing unless/until I can prove I've regularly changed the oil (Prestige, where I take it, had a computer crash, hard drive erased, can't provide me with records, and now under new management -- hm, I wonder why?). I've e-mailed Toyota twice and they refer it back to the dealer. So, I've decided that it's worth the out-of-pocket expense to take it to an independent mechanic. See my previous posts as to results. And by the way, I didn't take the problem seriously enough at first, and it was past the warranty period when I DID take it in.

OK, that didn't work. Oil still dropping 1 to 1 1/2 quarts in a week +

Called McKenzie, they are going to look at the head gasket. I suggested the piston ring, and he said, "no, you're not burning oil. It's got to be going somewhere, though."

grrrrrr.

friendly_jacek

Ok, just finished up with my mechanic (NOT Toyota dealer, idiots refuse to even talk intelligently to me, just saying "We have to rebuild the engine and it will be expensive").

He noticed oil around the timing chain and cover. So today he removed the cover and changed the timing cover gasket, and, he said that as he removed the bolts, oil came pouring out (he said it was as if he'd taken the plug out of the oil pan!). There should have been no oil in there at all. So it looks as if that was the problem.

However, we won't know for sure until I drive it for a while.

Cost to me this time: $497 and change.

Again, I'll let y'all know.

Jim

I'm not mechanic, but since you have a timing chain, it looks like there SHOULD be oil there. Someone familiar with timing chains please chime im. I hate to say this, but it looks like you might be dealing with incompetent mechanic.

Why you are not following good advice people gave you here on stuck rings?

Saturn owners had that problem all the time. It could be overcome by AutoRX or similar oil additive and using heavy duty engine oils like Rotella, Delo, and Delvac. These oils are universal gas/diesel, have extra dose of detergents and come in 2 flavors: synthetic 5W40 or dino 15W40 (10W30 exist but very hard to find).

I wouldn't touch the headgasket unless they can prove to you that a warped head or blown gasket is suspect. Sounds like they are shooting in the dark. If you are losing coolant or the drained oil has water/coolant contamination - then a headgasket will do nothing but set you back a few bills.

A stuck piston ring can cause significant oil consumption (blown headgasket and water contamination is one of the possible reasons for stuck rings - wears down cylinder walls and/or rings). Incorrectly seated rings, worn/broken rings, and excessive cabon deposits jamming the rings are other possibilities.

A compression and leakdown test shoud be done first to determine if it is rings. Leakdown test on the cooling system will reveal some head gasket issues (coolant analysis would be the best). I done those tests as a minimum before I crack open any part of the engine.

With that much oil loss - I'm suprised at the absence of any physical leaks in the engine - unless you drive hundreds of miles per day. Most manufactures say that 1 quart loss per 1000 miles is "normal". At that rate - you wouldn't even see any smoke coming from the exhaust. With the 8th gen Corollas - the most common culprits seem to be leaks from the main seals, bad valve seals, and stuck piston rings.

I'm not mechanic, but since you have a timing chain, it looks like there SHOULD be oil there. Someone familiar with timing chains please chime im. I hate to say this, but it looks like you might be dealing with incompetent mechanic.Why you are not following good advice people gave you here on stuck rings?

 

Saturn owners had that problem all the time. It could be overcome by AutoRX or similar oil additive and using heavy duty engine oils like Rotella, Delo, and Delvac. These oils are universal gas/diesel, have extra dose of detergents and come in 2 flavors: synthetic 5W40 or dino 15W40 (10W30 exist but very hard to find).

Yup - oil should be in there. Normally - you don't have to drain the oil out for that type of service - even so, there would be enough oil to be pooled in there to have a significant amount to drain out. Coolant should have been drain though - otherwise, you'd have one hell of a mess.

I've haven't used Auto-Rx myself - but I have used Shell Rotella before. Very good quality oil with high amounts of detergents. Cleaned up the engines on some our older muscle cars - much safer, gentler than most engine flushes.



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