Jump to content
Corolland: the Toyota Corolla Forums

Search the Community

Showing results for 'fuel injector questions'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Corolland
    • Introductions
    • Toyotas that aren’t Corollas
    • Toyota and Corolla News
    • General Corolla
    • Performance, Engines, Engine Swaps, Cornering
    • Current generation
    • Toyota Corolla (2009 until 2018-19 “TNGA”)
    • Toyota Corolla, Chevy Prizm (1998-2008)
    • Pre-1997 Toyota Corolla and Geo Prizm
    • Toyota Corolla Matrix
  • Classifieds
    • Corolland Classifieds
  • Community
    • Everything Else
    • Site Updates & Feedback

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



About Me






Found 7 results

  1. I wanted to know what are the signs of a bad fuel injector. How would the car run. Would you get lower mpg. Also how would you know if you need to clean your fuel injectors. How do you replace the fuel injectors. Thanks Frank
  2. So I pulled the fuel rail with injectors attached. Now I'm a little stumped. 1) I got the o-rings from the dealership, but where do they go? I'm assuming on the top of the fuel injector where it connects to the fuel rail. 2) How on earth do I remove the injector from the fuel rail? 3) Could the actual leak be the rubber ring that is on the cylinder head where the injector is inserted? Is this also called an o-ring? Sorry for so many questions, but frustrated after not finding the answers online.
  3. Hopefully they have a better diagnosis for you on this. Faulty ECM is definitely a possibility - though the issue usually manifests in a different manner than in your case, but the end results is the same - the car is not driveable, cannot be just the coil. They car is the right vintage and has the approximate mileage that others have seen failures at - so it makes this car a prime candidate for ECM issues. That alone should have got the tech to test the ECM and see if it is faulty or not - replacing the coil pack one time is perfectly logical, replace it a second time - that should raise questions. Now a third time - that should automatically say they mis-diagnosed the original problem. Personally, should have never gotten to the second coil replacement event - but that is just me. I totally agree - the mechanic did not do his/her job correcly if they just scanned the code and replaced the part that the computer told them was faulty. They have to do diagnosic work as well - they have to ask: Why does the ECM say this part is bad? What would cause that part to fail? Are there any other explainations for this CEL? Tech should have also checked compression and verified that the injector in that cylinder is OK. If those are found to be in working order and the coil doesn't exhibit any signs of beign faulty - they have to work backwards and expand they search - check the wiring, check grounds, check fuel pressures, etc. Eventually, they will eliminate potential culprits until they are left with that lone culprit.
  4. This is my first Toyota. I had an amazingly good experience with buying this car (a different thread in itself) and I'm hoping to get many years of trouble free use out of it. A little bit about the car's background first before I ask some questions: The car was sold to me by the original owner (an older lady and retired bank manager who had just bought a brand new Corolla) who kept, and kept organized, every invoice for any service done on the car. From 04/30/00, when she bought it, until Dec. '08, all the work (except tires) was done at Toyota; later she had oil changes etc done at Crappy tire and Meineke. According to her paperwork she changed it faithfully twice a year, every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Toyota also did coolant and transmission flushes over that period as per their regular service schedule. Aside from the usual wear and tear items (brakes, left struts, exhaust work) its pretty much still factory. The car had 96,000 km on it when I bought it almost a month ago today, and I'm just about to pass the 100,000 mark over the weekend (4,000 km in one month has been mainly due to my love of the car and taking it out for long drives). The only issues I've encountered so far have been pretty minor, but I'll post them here: 1. The car would never cold start for me on the first turn of the key. It typically took 2 tries, and then would sometimes stall after that. The idle at those times would start high, then the rpm would drop very low and become rough before the stall and after restart, until it warned for a couple minutes. Its been a very cool spring where I live so far, so ambient temps were in the range of 0-5 degrees Celsius. It may be a coincidence, but I did an oil change with Castrol Gtx 5w30 and a Honeywell "Defense" oil filter the day before yesterday, and when I started it yesterday it started fine on the first attempt and there was no stall after a quick 30 second warm up (ambient temp was about 5C). Prior to the oil change I changed the air filter at 98,000 km with a new Fram filter and put a bottle of STP fuel injector cleaner into a fillup at the same time (just because I noticed it was on sale when I was buying the air filter and figured why not try it). I also topped up the coolant (which was just below the low mark) with distilled/deionized water (I'm going to drain and refill the coolant late in the fall, so I'm not concerned with diluting the antifreeze in the meantime). From reading these forums, I suspect I'll also replace the original irridium plugs with new ones of the same brand and type before the summer's over, and clean the MAF sensor while I'm at it. The Serpentine belt was replaced by Toyota at about 40,000 kms and I had the tensioner replaced when the car was inspected. The transmission fluid was drained and refilled by Toyota at 79,812 km and I'm wondering when I should drain and replace it again (Toyota's service schedule says I should do it now, but I think its an unnecessary expense this soon). Anyone have any thoughts on a more real world interval for that? I'd appreciate any feedback from other members on anything else I could or should do to keep this car purring as long as possible (it was factory undercoated so there is no rust and the original owner really took good care of it). As an aside, its an oil burner but I haven't had it long enough to measure how much it burns, and this seems to be common (and to me, minor) issue on the 8th gen corollas. My milage also isn't also doesn't seem as good as many others here are getting, but I think that's a combination of the worn out tires (cheap Motomaster SE's that are on their last season), the terrain here (all hills and valleys), and my being too heavy on the pedal (my highway cruise speed is 75-80 mph and I've had a few runs where I've pushed it up to just over 100 mph). After reading some articles on hypermiling, I've begun to modify my driving habits and plan to work out the mpg I'm getting soon.
  5. from another board on misfires and multiple codes ,but a good primer on diagnosis. Originally Posted by chubbygoatboy 99 Corolla -- To make a long story short as possible, the car had 5 stored codes. Two Cyl. 1 misfires, Two cylinder 4 misfires, and one random, multiple misfires. I then cleared the codes. I replaced spark plugs, and wires. Drove it, and immediately it was still missing. Codes now read cyl 1 and cyl 4 misfires, one each. So, now it looks like maybe coil pack, since both 1 & 4 are on the same pack. So, I bought new coil pack and replaced it. Still runs like crap, and now I get only cyl 4 misfire. So I swapped plugs and wires around just in case one of the new ones was bad, still cyl 4 misfire, P0304 code. I checked compression, and got 210, 210, 190, 190, so I think that looks OK. The #4 plug is damp, and clearly not burning. HELP, and Ideas are greatly appreciated!! Now, I switched coils to rule out the new coil being bad. It still has the same misfire code. So it appears that the plugs, wires, and coils are OK. WHATS LEFT?? Could the fuel injector do this??? Any thoughts are appreciated!! Well, I have answered my own questions. So I will post what I found in hopes that it might help someone else!! I swapped the #4 injector, with #3, and guess what, the misfire moved to #3 cyl. So a new injector is on order. and another: I found on line that the p300 coad is a random missfire in all cylinders and that the last number in a p300 code is the cylinder that is misfiring. Your p302 & p303 would be #2&3 cylinders. Answer injectors are often the cause of misfire codes on this year and model. Answer The first thing to try would be new spark plugs plugs and plug wires. This fixes misfires the majority of the time. If that doesn't help check the rotor and fuel injectors. Answer Either a bad coil or bad fuel injectors. try switching coils with other cylinder and see if code changes. if yes, you got a bad coil, if not, you must change all 4 injectors, cause they will all go bad eventually. I've seen it. I was a Toyota technician. your vehicle does not have plug wires ,but you probably have a bad injector. I would clear codes and buy a code checker. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=94168 i hope this helps.
  6. To answer this person questions as some others might find this useful. If I read your post correctly - hopefully you have not purchased the TRD S/C unit yet or do not have a 2005+ Corolla. Like they mentioned above, it was never designed for the DBW (Drive By Wire) system on the 2005 and 2006 Corolla - only fitment are on the 2003 and 2004 Corollas. There were also ECM syncing issues as well. So an aftermarket ECM (stand alone or piggyback type are required). TRD was supposed to release one for the 2005+ Corollas, but nothing has happened yet - I believe they were working on getting the one for hte Scion tC out in time. Anyway - if you do manage to get it to fit - the TRD S/C actually sits on the cylinder head. Your intake (the four plastic runners from the throttle body to the cylinder head) is removed and the S/C bolted into its place. You don't have to mess with the exhaust manifold at all for fitment. But you can get a high flow exhaust system (header, high flow cat, mandrel bends, bigger tubing, high flow muffler, etc.) But the TRD S/C was designed for the stock exhaust system - unless your modding the supercharger, you don't need to spend the extra money on the exhaust right away. TRD does not recommend running any aftermarket intake, especially CAI (Cold Air Intakes), while running the S/C. More for warrantee reasons (possible engine damage). The reason is that there is a chance of hydrolocking the engine and S/C if the filter end gets immersing in water. Also they worry about excessive amounts of debris that may get past the high flow filters on aftermarket intakes may damage the bearings inside the S/C case body. Can you do it anyway - sure. You need to make sure that you are able to do it first with the correct parts - namely fuel computer, injectors, tune, and cooling. You have to run something like an E-Manage. Basically it is a "piggyback" programmable fuel management unit that intercepts signals to and from the original ECM - you have to load "fuel and timing maps" to get it work correctly - generally have to take it into a tuning shop to do that, or do it yourself with a computer and a wideband O2 sensor (good thing to have) and turn it while driving (not recommended) with some street tuned base maps avaialbe online at different forums. Also premium fuel is a must, water or alcohol injection is highly recommended (a must if you run an aftermarket intake). Since there is no intercooler for the TRD S/C - you have to run a misting system to bring down the intake temps. Will go a long way to reducing detonation. Injector choices and sparkplugs are very important - too big or too small of an injector and you run into a tuning nightmare. RC Engineering and Power Enterprises are two companies that people like to talk about for injectors - make sure you size them correctly to your application and make sure the impedance is correct. Otherwise you'll have to run a resistor box and run into its own little issues. You have to make sure that the plugs can run with boost (need colder plugs - about two heat ranges cooler, minimum one heat range cooler). Don't use fancy platinum plugs (read Bosch +4) or Iridiums for that matter - plain copper plugs first - then once it gets tuned, plain platinum or Iridium plugs (not the fine wire ones). You also have to close up the gap a few throusands (From 0.044 inch to 0.035 is a good start). Fuel pump has to be up to the task - upgraded fuel pump (Walboro or similar) is a must. If you lean out when the boost is up - the engine will go soon after.
  7. Is my Corolla falling apart? I am starting to think I made a mistake when I bought a Corolla. I bought it because it was supposed to be reliable. But here is my experience over the last year, in chronological order. · May ’04 – bought used, 2001 Corolla CE, for $13,000 Canadian. 30k on it. I thought I got a great deal. · May ’04 to May ’05 – no problems at all. I was happy. · May 9, 2005 – took it to the dealership for regular service. I only had 42.5k on it but they told me that I should have 48k service. I agreed. They then did the following work on it, and charged me $760: LABOUR -- general service (checking various things and replacing oil) - $84 - flush of fuel injection system - $55 -throttle body service $38 - front brake service $44 - rear brake shoes - $85 - machine rear drums - $95 - marker / licence bulbs - $18 -drive belts $55.20 PARTS - oil filter $6.99 - oil $10 -belt 55 - injector cleaner - $14 - choke cleaner $6.50 - filter element - $22 - brake clean $4.95 - brake shoe kit $53 TAX $100 · June 20, 2005 – “check engine” light goes on. I take it to the dealership. This is what the invoice says: Check and report on check engine line on – Cause P0171 Correction: Air filer housing not installed properly (they admitted that this was the fault of the person who did the service in May, so didn’t charge me) Replaced engine timing chain tensioner (this was under warranty – so no charge) · July 10 – check engine light goes on again! I take it in to the dealership. This is what the invoice says: Condition : check engine light on for the 3rd time Cause: Mass Air flow inaccurate readings. Need to replace and then reinspect for lean condition. Correction : replaced mass air flow. Readings on fuel trim normal. Vehicle ran good. The price was $219 for the meter flow and $95 for the labour. Questions: 1. is there a pattern here? Is there one cause for all these problems or are they unrelated? 2. is it a coincidence that all these problems cropped up after the service in May? I suspect that they screwed up a perfectly fine car by pulling things apart. Am I wrong? 3. Should I sell the car now and buy something else? 4. Can I expect a lot more service in the future? 5. I thought that Corollas were like appliances, where you plug them in and then forget about them. 6. Should I have bought a Cavalier instead?
  • Create New...