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Found 71 results

  1. Ghost

    Clay Bars

    I've already tried the Mother's kit and it's time for a new one. Are there any clay bar kits out there (in the US) that don't feature ridiculously puny bricks of clay? Mother's/Meguiars include 3 oz clay bricks to rub the entire car maybe once. Plus they stuff unnecessary items into the box like a microfiber washcloth and a small bottle of polish, when all you want is just a fat brick of clay and some lube. Then they try to sell the bundle for ~$20. Wait ... Mother's now offers TWO 3 oz bricks. There's got to be a dirt cheap source for clay somewhere, like a craft supply retailer. No doubt Mother's/Meguiars would like consumers to think it's "specially-formulated for auto applications" clay worth top dollar. I really hate paying $15+ to clay-bar my car once, so I'm hoping there's something out there more worth the money. Or maybe you can buy the clay separately?
  2. It's washed, been drying over night, it's pulled into the garage so I can do the door check and determine if I need to clay it or not. I've got a new product to try out called Car Pro Essence. It's a polymer based semi permanent filler/glaze/polish product, from the same who make CQuartz (which I haven't tried yet). I added 1oz of Ultima waterless wash to my 3 gallon M62 soap mix and it REALLY did help the water to sheet off and not spot. I've tried it on a few panels like a QD with a micro fiber but it feels really slow to dry when sprayed on the panel so I may try a spritz on the MF towel and then wiping the panel. I probably will need to clay at least the nose, hood, and front fenders however I don't want to since the paint is so soft it's easily marred by the clay and that means I have to polish the mar marks out. I've got some pretty gentle polish I'll try and I'll put a layer of the Essence over too so maybe it won't be so bad, just seems like I always end up with some light halogram no matter what I do. What I really need to do is just pony up and get a real DA and the kit n kaboodle that goes with it.
  3. 112263

    Clay Bar

    Dear Gents: This thread follows the thread I started about a week ago on "white flakes and specks" from too much wax (Meguiar's Gold class). I looked at numerous stores today and finally found a clay bar at the Canadian Tire store at St. Clair and Keele in Toronto. It came as a set for $25 and includes a small clay bar, a bottle of spray, and a small bottle of wax. Made by Mother's. I gather that I am supposed to: a. wash the car; b. spray the stuff on an area c. use the clay bar on the wet area. Questions: - as the clay bar picks up stuff from the car, doesn't this material become imbedded in the bar, so that the bar gradually becomes abrasive to the car? - does anyone know where I can buy a plain clay bar? - are there any helpful hints or pointers that anyone can give.
  4. I have considered having my '02 Corolla re-painted because the paint from the factory seems very poor in this particular year (or perhaps in other eighth generation). It's a white car, but there was a lot of oxidation on the roof and paint fade of the driver's door. I used Mothers clay bar, polishing compound, rubbing compound and wax to get it back to a nice condition on the roof, driver's side and rear. Took some time. I am spending today doing the hood and the passenger side. I would have it re-painted professionally. I don't know much about what shops charge for re-painting a car. Any ideas? Also, I've heard of "Maaco", but with a low cost for the service, I assume quality is lacking. Anyone know anything about Maaco? There is one located in the city I live in. Yes, the car has 230,000 on it, but it's in excellent condition. I am very attached to this car and my goal is too keep it until at least 400,000 miles.
  5. Update: The clay bar did the trick, kind of anyway. Some of the biggest rust spots came back, indicating to me that they had penetrated deeper into the paint than others and that the contamination hadn't been removed. None of the smaller spots have come back, indicating that I was able to remove that contamination completely with the clay bar. I used the clay bar again on the spots that reappeared, and they again came off, but this time I made sure I got them off completely by going over them numerous times with the clay bar. Hopefully this is the last time I have to do this. Now my issue is that the paint on my driver's side front lip has super fine spider web cracks in the paint. They aren't visible unless you get right up to the lip and look at an angle, but I'm going to have to get it fixed at some point. I think that will require a repaint. Also the car has five or six really shallow and small hail damage spots, which I believe from past experience will pop out with prolonged exposure to sunlight. They aren't visible unless you put your head on plane with the hood, roof or trunk and close one eye. I'm not going to get those fixed.
  6. So this past winter I started noticing rust spots on my 7 month old 2010 Corolla S. They were easily visible because the car is white. Upon discovering them, I immediately took the car and had it detailed. They went away for a while, but came back. Last week I learned the source of this paint contamination; a nearby iron cutting operation that was not keeping its filings from floating in the air. I saw a newscast that showed this plant and was reporting that it had been shut down by the EPA for numerous violations. As proof of them not keeping the filings from getting into the air, they went to the parking lot at my place of work and took pictures of all the white and silver cars in the employee lot. Every one of our cars was damaged by the iron filings. Anyway, now aware of the issue and knowing it won't happen again, I decided to tackle the issue myself this time. I got a clay bar kit and went at it. The spots all came off, but not without some serious elbow grease. Then I washed the car again, waxed it twice and made sure it was parked under cover. It was really hard work, but I really like my cars to be clean and its worth it to me to get the car shiny and keep it well taken care of on my day off.
  7. I had my car in a body shop once to get some rust holes treated around the windshield. It was in there for a few weeks ... sloow ... and all manner of metal dust settled on it and lodged in the paint. Afterward I could hear a rasping whisper when I drew a towel across the paint surface. That's when I clay-barred for the 1st time and restored it to a glassy finish. There was no rust though from oxidizing metal particles so must not have been iron.
  8. dshadle1

    Clay Bars

    I clayed our Highlander with the Mother's kit yesterday, and the clay bar easily made it through the full vehicle. I had leftover spray, too. Compared to the cost of having it done professionally, there is still value to these "expensive" products. Coke out of the machine is $10 a gallon.
  9. Paul79UF

    Clay Bars

    The clay bar from Zaino is $16.95 for two decent sized bars.
  10. Ghost

    Clay Bars

    Thanks for throwing out some options. So you CAN buy the clay separately. Too bad it's not a compelling value at $2.50 an ounce.
  11. Griot's Garage has a larger clay bar for around $20 - 8oz. bar. I haven't used it, but others have indicated good results. http://www.autogeek.net/griots-detailing-clay.html Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay is the same price and size - $20 for 8oz. bar. This is what I've started to use, as the bar is bigger and I can cut it down to any size I want. I usually chop it into 4 equal pieces and flatten them down into a pancake. On average, I can get a car per piece. Also helps to portion it out before hand, as if you accidentally drop it, you can just toss it and grab a fresh piece. http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-speed-clay-bar.html
  12. Interesting - thanks for sharing. Didn't think that iron contaminants could penetrate paint like that, but thinking how everyone is pushing for more eco friendly paints (ie, softer paint) - I can see how this is possible. Good to hear that the clay bar took car of that - probably looked pretty nasty when you got done with it.
  13. Cool good to know - which one did you get, the aerosol can or the trigger pump version? I know for the ones that have dried on the car for some time - a detailing clay bar will "shave" those right off, they tend to smear the soft ones for a bit before they come off.
  14. As long as the sap is still "soft" - WD-40 can be used sparingly on a clean, cotton rag. Wash car afterwards, rewax / reseal and it is generally safe for most paints. Alcohol can also be used, you won't necessarily damage the clear coat, but you will strip any wax/sealant that was on the paint, so you will have to rewax / reseal accordingly. This would also apply to almost any solvent or cleaner you apply to the car's paint. Another product that can help is automotive detailing clay bars - something like Clay Magic Auto Clay Bar kit (http://www.claymagic.net/) or Mother's California Gold Clay Bar system (www.mothers.com/02_products/07240.html) or similar. They are designed to remove surface contaminate without damaging paint, something I do couple times a year, to help clean surface contaminants off the paint so that the polish can do its job.
  15. I use Meguiar's NXT Tech 2.0. The reformulated stuff. Box hypes its aggressive beading quality but it just isn't there. It won't bead for long. About the same as the original NXT Tech wax. Shine is long lasting though. Nice 'n sparkly. Don't use polish unless I have a scuff mark. My paint's in good condition. I got a Mother's Clay Bar Kit I want to use next time. Have yet to try it out.
  16. The 97 Corolla I have (used by my son) was an outdoor car and surprisingly has no rust, especially surprising for Northern Ohio. However, it is faded. When I purchased the car in August of last year I tried restoring some of the luster and I felt I did a decent job. Today I was looking at the car and I notice that the wax and polish job I did is somewhat inconsistent. I also noticed that in some areas the red is fading again to almost a pink. I don't want to bust my ###### waxing and polishing the car again. Do any of you recommend a polish that can be applied and removed without having your arms drop off? I want it to look good, but I don't want to do it for days. I do have an electric buffer, but it's just a cheap one that I probably paid $25 for, if that. So can you recommend any products that can provide good results? I used clay bar last year before any other action.
  17. For this part of the country the car is in surprisingly good shape. The guy that bought it when it only had 20K on it parked it on the street and our winters are tough on a car (salt). The only rust on this car is above the from windshield, however the trunk and roof are faded, while the rest shines. I used clay, rubbing compound and wax last year just before winter and it looked ok, but the trunk is starting to look pretty shabby again. When I bought the car it looked pink, but after the lengthy cleaning it was bright red. In bad climates (snowy winters with lots of salt on the road), keeping the car washed helps prevent rusting. Eventually your paint will peel and the clearcoating will come off. It is not pretty.
  18. Strum

    Faded Paint

    For this part of the country the car is in surprisingly good shape. The guy that bought it when it only had 20K on it parked it on the street and our winters are tough on a car (salt). The only rust on this car is above the from windshield, however the trunk and roof are faded, while the rest shines. I used clay, rubbing compound and wax last year just before winter and it looked ok, but the trunk is starting to look pretty shabby again. When I bought the car it looked pink, but after the lengthy cleaning it was bright red.
  19. i use that clay method to check clearance between plug and piston on my gf's 2 stroke moped engine it works great!
  20. Seems like a very good way to check for clearance and spacing. It stands to reason that the mock set-up will demonstrate how much room there is. The clay will leave an indentation where the piston/valves came in contact with it and that can be measured. Let us know how much clearaqnce there actually is. I could not find that information in any of the manuals. I have a couple of those engines in my yard and they could be reworked to operate again.
  21. thought id share a good how to guide to doing what i am going to do. for checking valve clearence What Tools Do I Need To Be Able To Do This? This is one of the rare instances that only simple tools are required. Some considerations are necessary that if you plan ahead of time your process will be easier. Read the list of tools, the engine parts needed and their descriptions below: Short block with at least one piston/rod assembly installed. It is required that on engines such as the big block Chevy that has different handed pistons that you do at least two cylinders so as to verify each design. The cylinder heads, with milling and valve job complete. All modifications need to be completed on the cylinder heads you plan on testing. You may use the head with light pressure testing springs, but chamber volume, surfacing, valve job, and lash settings, etc., must me complete or you will need to re-test. Cylinder head bolts or studs Whether you are using bolts or studs as your cylinder head fasteners, you will need to have some available. You may use used fasteners for this test. Head Gasket (preferably a used one for this test) A compressed gasket (used) will be more accurate than a new head gasket. Camshaft and specs for the cam you are using as well as what rocker arm ratio you intend to use. You must know what your cam lift values are going to be with this combo. If you plan on possibly using multiple cams through the season, it would be best to test each one. If you plan on running a high ratio rocker arm, you need to test with that rocker arm on the cylinder head. Razor Knife For cutting the modeling clay Modeling Clay You need to place modeling clay on the tops of the pistons. DO NOT use PlayDoh, it springs back after compression and will not be accurate. Modeling clay is available at most art stores and will be perfect for this exercise. Torque Wrench You need to torque the cylinder head to specified torque values. Crank Turning Socket or other turning device You will need to spin the engine and a crank turning socket is the easiest way to do this. Dial Caliper or other "accurate" measuring device After you have rotated the engine and removed the cylinder head ... you will cut the clay in various locations and then you will use the caliper to measure its thickness. (this was found on http://www.centuryperformance.com/piston2valve.asp)
  22. Hello all, One day my girlfriend decided to drive about 40-50 miles at highway speeds with the emergency brake on. I was in the car with her when she noticed that the brakes "didn't feel right". I got in the driver's seat and promptly disengaged the emergency brake, found a parking lot and adjusted the brakes back by driving in reverse and hitting the brakes. They came back and the braking felt fine (didn't have to push it to the floor). She's got over 100K on there and is hard on the brakes notwithstanding the previous story... Recently we'd heard some not-so-nice sounds from the rear brakes so I figured I should go ahead and change the rear brake shoes. When I removed the drum I found a loose spring in the bottom and the adjuster lever which was now bent up and in two pieces. Drums look ok. So I ordered shoes and a "brake hardware kit" from the local not-so-advanced auto parts store; which they told me would have the lever and would cover both wheels. Picked it up today...no lever and only springs for one wheel. I've order another hardware kit, but they couldn't help me with the adjuster lever. Anyone ever heard of a broken adjuster lever? Did I get on them too hard in reverse, when they were already really hot? Anyone have any ideas where I could get one? Do I have to go to a dealer? I spoke with them and they were most unhelpful and rude and would do anything to not give them my business (another reason I drive a Saturn ). Thanks for your time! Clay
  23. Easy! Wash your car, dry it well. Apply paint cleaner (I like Meguiar's products, so for me that's Scratch-X, but they have others), buff out. Apply polish (Meguiar's again- I like their Deep Crystal System polish, but there are many others). Buff that. Now apply your wax, and, you guessed it, buff. Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax gives good results, but again, there are others. Applying and removing paint cleaner and polish is just the same as waxing. Have enough applicator pads to do the job, and clean towels - 100% cotton terry or microfiber. Clay bar was mentioned, and while that's good for getting contaminants like bird crap and sap off your paint, I think the paint cleaner is the better way to go for your faded paint. I've never used Turtle Wax's Color Back (never had to), but I have also heard good things about it.
  24. Late model Corollas have paint with a layer of clear coat on top. You might not like what Im going to say but dark colors are difficult to maintain, they require regular washing, polishing and waxing, that being said I do own a black car, yes most car nuts do, and its a passion of mine to keep it looking its best. Dont get a black car if you dont enjoy detailing your car. What I would do is hand polish it to regain as much shine as possible, you could use a rotary or orbital buffer to save time and effort but theres the risk of damaging the paint if used incorrectly. Take your time and do it by hand. 1st wash the car, then clay the surface to remove all contaminants, apply polish ( I use Meguiars products ), then a layer of wax. It should come up looking near new, even if the clear is worn down, there should be enough paint thickness to polish up, just make sure you wax often after the initial polish to protect from bird poo and anything else. Best thing to do if your car gets pooed on, get it off ASAP!!!!
  25. AutoZone is doing a 30% off special for employees this weekend. Shopping List: Mother's or Clay Magic clay bar kit Mother's Back to Black Mother's or Maguire's wax Tire shine K&N drop in air filter
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