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About enotoga

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  1. I had a 2004 Corolla 1.8L with an auto transmission and loved it. Recently I bought a 2009 matrix which also has a 1.8L with auto tranny. I've noticed a difference in how the tranny feels. When I take my foot off the gas when traveling at about 40mph it seems like the tranny creates a lot of drag and tries to slow the car down, not extreme but I definably feel it. Almost as if its downshifting one gear. Does anyone know if Toyota has changed anything about the auto 4-speed trannies since 2004 to account for what I've described. I guess it could be because the the 2009 Matrix is still so new (900 miles) that it hasn't loosened up yet. Any ideas?
  2. I'm wondering if the 2009 corolla with 1.8 liter engine has a timing chain like the 2004 model does. also, I would appreciate any thoughts on buying the new 2009? Is it risky to buy this first year model? I don't want a timing belt - that's what I liked about the 2004 - no belt!
  3. .....for my 2004 Corolla CE with 75,200 miles, automatic, with CD/Cassettte, in excellent condition. What do you think the dealership will offer me as trade-in value. What is a fair offer? Thanks
  4.'re right Baadpuppy. I've already become a little bit of a contortionist though! My biggest problem is that us Corolla people tend to be fast. When I get where I'm going I jump right out of my car, then my passengers slowly exit like typical french fry eating Americans, "LOCK IT UP" I yell. This in itself is embarassing because 95% of the french fry eaters have power door locks so they'll always remark about why I don't. Next I have to chase them around to make sure they locked up. So much easier to just press a button and be done with it. I KNOW - I'm being over sensitive. LOL But you're right - I should bought a 98 - I love them!
  5. Good post all make some good points. I bought a CE 2004 corolla with CD and am/fm, auto, ac and nothing else. I agree with Bikeman for the most part and that cheap economical transportation is the main objective for us Corolla people, however I will make one exception to that and that is AUTO DOOR LOCKS. Wish I had em'. It makes me feel really stupid running around my car in a high theft area making sure the doors are lock. YES YES, I know there are work arounds, but my advice it to just get the factory door locks and windows - it's worth it. But overall the Bikeman's perspective is my favorite. The objective is to drive CHEAP and for that - Toyota rules
  6. I just got only 225 miles out of 10.5 gallons of gas and I drive pretty easy - all city drivintg. 2004 CE auto with AC w/ 50k miles. I'm sure it's the extreme cold weather (average temp 15 - 20 f) but I didn't expect such an extreme drop-of. Lots of long warm ups and short trips don't help either.
  7. Thanks for the info on these cheap cats. I live in a high road salt area and when my system rusts out I'll take your advice. Thanks
  8. auto or manual? what is the rpm reading at idle? last tune-up date?
  9. Thanks everybody. I changed the pads myself this morning. I used Duralast semi-metallic pads from Autozone - total cost of the job was $24.95. The Duralast pads come with shims already attached to the backs of the pads which makes it easy. The old pads were very worn - down to between about an 8th and a 16th of an inch. Everything is working perfectly now.
  10. Lots of smart folks on this board. I appreciate your posts. On my 2004ce I just noticed a low scraping sound coming from my front discs at 50k miles. Normally I would just assume that the pads need replacing and do it myself. However, I read somewhere that the sound of worn pads on a corolla should be a high pitch screech. And a low scraping sound could indicate an alignment problem. I think this might be BS so I thought I'd bring it to the board. 1) Should my oem pads be worn out at 50k? 2) Would the scraping sound be normal for worn pads? 3) How often do corollas need an alignment with normal driving, if ever? 4) Can someone recommend a good, low cost pad. Thanks!
  11. Agreed. The steps in the posts above look great. The c-clamp should compress the plunger easy with no need to bleed the fluid. Can anyone recommend a nice set of pads to use for a 2004 ce?
  12. Never buy one. My 2004 Corolla has 50k miles and NO WARRANTY REPAIRS. Of course I do not have the extended warranty - I only had the 36K three year factory freebee which is now expired. The reason people pay more for a Corolla than they do for a Chevy Cavalier is because the Corolla will last. The Extended warranty is pure profit for your dealer. You're car probably won't break and even if it does it will be cheaper to fix than you think if you use your head. Far cheaper than the warranty.
  13. At 30k just drain (3 quarts) of AT fluid from pan and refill. Do this two more times at each of the next two oil changes. Don't worry about the filter. That AT tranny will outlive most other components of the car. I drain my coolant every december from the radiator draincock and refill with fresh toyota red and distilled water 50/50. Costs $17 bucks and keeps the water pump seals well lubed. Never needs a flush. Oil change every 3k with 50% dino and 50% synth. new filter at every other change. Air filter at every 15k whether it needs it or not. Easy driving and this thing will do 300k easy.
  14. I did not buy the extended warranty. I was under the impression that the car came with 36 month or 36,000mi bumper to bumper and that was it. If I have 60k on the powertrain, that's great but I probably won't use it. I think extened warranties on corollas are a sucker's bet. I'll bet on the corolla instead of against it. If I'm wrong and the corolla needs a warranty repair before 100,000 miles, I'll probably be able to get the car fixed for less than the $700 cost of the warranty anyway.
  15. ....would be appreciated. My oem tires are bald at 36k so I'm replacing them. I'd like a decent quality high gas mileage tire for a reasonable price. Can anybody recommend a good one?