• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About tomservo

  • Rank
    Well-known member
  1. I've got a couple bent wheels on my ride - I'm about ready to replace the damn things, anyone know a good place to source 3 or so? (I want a full sized spare too) I'd like to just buy steel wheels unless i can find a full set of alloy for the cheap.
  2. possible, and I don't have a good way to test it.. I'm going to check again after my auto-rx treatment and see where the numbers are. I've got another 1000 miles or so, so about 2 weeks from now I'll be changing the oil and testing compression again. I'm gonna change my tranny fluid at the same time - and if the weather isn't godawful cold, I'll flush out the old fluid too. Not something I'm even remotely willing to do when it's -30F. If it's still cold, I'll just change the fluid, and do it again in another 5 or 10k miles. Not worth losing fingers over.. If the compression numbers haven't budged by then, I'll go get another tester at walmart and double check it. It's still not burning any oil, thank god. I got another P1346 this morning, cleared it, and it didn't come on after a prolonged series of shopping trips today - I'll change the VVT unit and the camshaft sensor when I get a chance. (the CPS is easy, the vvt unit is a bit of trouble). Hopefully I'll see 30-40psi difference on the cylinders, and a bit more after the auto-rx rinse. Bikeman: the numbers sound better than what i have been getting, but in colorado i got used to getting a solid 38-39 doing 65-70 through mountains. But that was at 9000+ elevation. My city mileage ends up being about 18mpg - acceleration just kills it, far more than it should.
  3. anyone know if the cat on the prizm is the same as the corolla? their website doesn't list prizm in a close year to mine (01).. I know the exhaust is possibly slightly different on the prizm, as it calls for different torque values on the heat shielding.
  4. got an update - mileage is a tiny bit better, last night when i started it (it was like -30F, engine was still 44F) i got my first P0420 - i cleared the code and it hasn't popped back up. I've done some experimenting with speeds vs mileage - and best i can tell is it feels like the cat may be clogged up from burning oil for so long. ie 12mph difference (68 vs 80) means 5MPG difference (30 vs 25). It improved a tiny bit on the way back (about .8 mpg but at both speeds). It gets about 39 mpg @ 36mph and 34mpg @ 55mph.. But I don't wanna buy more parts!!!
  5. At 100psi, that engine is a total turd... nothing short of major rebuild work will bring back 118psi of compression.. Here: <- tons of engine info The compression check article doesn't mention that you should also disconnect your fuel injectors so you don't wash down your cylinder walls with gas while you do the test.
  6. does it even get cold in mass? ;P it was colder here than it was at the north pole yesterday... vicenza77: how cold are we talking here? mine's noisy when it's below zero - and in fact, depending on the noise, it could be "normal" - there were several noise issues on the pre-03 rollas... there's the accessory belt tensioner, and there's a solenoid thingy on the air filter box that can be "apallingly" loud (both of which have TSBs somewhere). it's also fairly normal to hear some pinging when your engine is super cold..
  7. Dino or synthetic, the important thing is regular oil changes at good intervals - if you're really concerned about what type/brand of oil, check with the guys at BITOG ( - go to forums) and/or do some used oil analyses.. they're not that expensive and will tell you if you've got excessive wear or anything. (like $10-30 each)
  8. I've heard the amsoil atf if the best - they say you can go 100k with it (and many BITOG guys reccomend that). A bit rich for my blood - I've just recently grabbed some mobil 1 synth atf, gonna drain and fill with cheap stuff, run it a few hundred miles, and then drain, clean filter/magnets, then refill with the mobil... I haven't changed the atf since i bought the car... 80k ago.. so it's long overdue... maybe in 20k or so i'll try the amsoil I had a trailer hitch installed and did some heavy towing (likely, more than the weight of the car) through the mountains in colorado, but i put a huge tranny cooler on it (from a ford F600)
  9. there had better not be a problem with the valves/seats!! I just replaced every single valve and had the head rebuilt.. Interestingly, the valves don't ping now that the VVT is fully functional. Hopefully the auto-rx will fix up the compression - if not, it wouldn't be the end of my world, the CEL is off now, the car runs good and it burns no oil
  10. Interesting, though, how these engines can be so finicky about oil - some do great on synth, others prefer dino... I like dino cause i never go over 2k OCI - I tried more once, and I'm certain it contributed to my stuck rings. IMO, if the oil is darker than coffee, it's well past time to change that crap out..
  11. I would get you some auto-rx and give that a try... if it wasn't covered under the warranty... I personally would consider pushing for a replacement or something... Is there any single person on the boards who has a 1ZZ-FE with 1qt/1k oil consumption long term that hasn't turned out to be a problem? Now that there is the question... It sounds like your warranty should cover the problem, though - the terms just say that they're not gonna pay if you run it out of oil and obliterate the head/crank/rods or overheat it...
  12. Having searched on BITOG forums extensively - the very best UOA (used oil analysis) for the 1ZZ-FE engine came with using pennzoil conventional oil. Even better than the high cost synthetic oils in our engines... go figure.. I personally use the purolator pure one filters (14477, longer than stock) but most of the BITOG guys like the wix I have heard that the FL400S filters (motorcraft number) will also fit, and add some extra oil to the system as well. (much much bigger filter than stock) Not sure if it's appropriate to post some links to relevant UOAs... metal concentrations indicate wear - silver and lead = bearings, iron being cylinders and chrome indicates rings. silicon generally indicates dirt getting into engine.. lower is obviously better - pennzoil yellow - german castrol syntec (0w30) - syntec 5w30 - amsoil 0w30 (ouch) - havoline 5w30 - exxon, havoline and trop artic 5w30 From what i've seen, the 1zz-fe motors like dino or synthetic blends better than straight synthetics...
  13. Good news, guys - I replaced the oil control valve, and used my new scangauge 2 to turn off the CEL - drove it about 30 minutes and it didn't come back on - still fairly inconclusive, as I understand the test cycle is every 2 startups for these codes. On a side note, the scangauge ii is awesome! I googled up group buys for it (found one at a hummer site) and paid $149 for mine - I missed out on a GB for $130 earlier this month. I have to say, this thing is well worth it. I checked my compression today - 138 135 132 138 ... the numbers are ######, but at least they're all close to each other.. maybe my compression tester isn't working right (i can only hope)... before i had the head rebuilt, number 2 (135) was getting 185 while all the others had 0... go figure.. I'm trying some auto-rx so that's why i was doing the compression check... i'll let everyone know how the auto-rx does
  14. I agree, clear the codes... some codes may take a long time before they self clear... glad to hear it's running good! Hopefully I'll have the last of my codes cleared up by next week and be in the same (not leaking) boat as you.
  15. I'd like to toss in my 2c on this one - I haven't been able to keep my 01 prizm aligned worth a turd either - and at $90 a pop I have simply given up and counter steer. Bad for my tires, suspension, and mileage. On the shaking issue - my car shakes at hwy speeds also, but it is caused by a bent wheel (or two) and I simply can't afford to replace them at the moment.. It took 3 visits to the tire shop to learn this, however, and watching them balance the damn tire.