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  1. Replaced all 4 on my 98 a few years ago...way easy and only cost me about $180 for KYBs and the spring compressor kit from harbor freight. Next time I will just take the struts to my local mech who said he would do the spring swap for $20 per..just less hassle. Of course, alignment must be done too.
  2. The first thing i would think that it's valves adjustment should check the valve cap/camshaft clearances.
  3. On my 98 with the siezed oil rings on the pistons..I just go with Walmart cheapo oil every 3500..and have started using that STP oil treatment for high mileage vehicles ( increases viscosity ALOT ). My engine consumes about 1/2 qt every 1500 miles..and the oil gets so dirty anyway because of clogged oil holes in the piston..Syth would just be wasted money..Currently I have 159k on my 98. BTW, I've found that just filling the oil so it's 1/2 qt LOW on the stick really helps reduce the oil 'consumption'. I'm thinking because the oil level is lower than normal in the pan, and the crankcase doesn't splash as much into the cylinder when running. Saves carbon buildup without sacrificing much... imho
  4. Howdy's been a while since i've posted.. Now i need to replace the panel on top of my 1998 Corolla that surrounds the Air bag in the front passenger ( please, lets not get into why the panel got this way ). Has anyone done this or know where I can find the procedures to follow to remove it? Thanks
  5. well, about 6 hrs after i posted this, i found an EASY solution. I was looking at the comments on a youtube video above, and found someone had the same problem. He claimed he pushed on the exhaust pipe ( toward the pass side ), and was able to free the bracket. I tried it on mine, and Viola! I used a 2 ft length of 2x2 wood and tugged on the sensor wire, while using shoulder pressure on the wood to move the pipe..The bracket and sensor fell out....I love simple and CHEAP solutions.
  6. 2000 Corolla CE Having problem passing emissions. Both 02 sensors are giving 'not ready' to emissions test, so its time to R&R them. I've researched the procedures, seems straightforward, except for the downstream sensor. Because it appears the 2nd sensor was added after the design of the model. This is the one that has the electric connector under the carpet inside the cabin, and requires removal of the passenger seat to pull up the carpet to gain access to the connector. The consensus of other mechs seems to be it's easier just to cut the wires going to the sensor, and splice the new sensor in. ( Now i understand why the Denso sensor without the electrical connector are popular on this model ). So, i spent the good part of the day soaking both down both sensors with PB blaster, and driving the car, to maximize penetration. Decided to R&R the upstram first, since it's accessable from the top of the engine bay. There are 2 12mm nuts that hold the sensor bracket into the exhause manifold. Remove these 2 nuts and the sensor and plate should just come out. Wrong! Of course, one of the nuts was severely corroded, and actually rounded using a 12mm. After much effort, I was able to remove it with an 11mm ( another time i wish i had a $100 metwrench socket set ). After getting both nuts off, the plate and sensor did start to come off, but cannot be removed, because, i discovered, the exhause manifold/Pre-cat tube flange bolt head is the way! The bolt head on the cat side of the flange protrudes about 1/8" below the top of the plate, making it impossible to remove the plate/sensor! So, I thought I'd retighten the plate and use my (3/4) 22mm o2 socket to remove the sensor from the backing plate. But the socket is too big for the OEM sensor! So, my choices at this point are: I will either have to get the correct OEM 02 sensor socket (SST?), or take it to my mech with his lift and air tool to remove the 14mm flange bolt, and maybe have him replace it with a shorter bolt, so future R&R wont be a problem. This situation seems very strange, as this problem only appears on the 2000 model. This video below show someone removing the up sensor on a 2001 with ease! Perhaps the factory realized their mistake and started using shorter flange bolts on the cat side? Hmm
  7. Turns out that you were right fish.. It seems this was caused by a clogged up cat, we had it replaced and the problem seems to have disappeared, but the infamous P0171 problem now shows up. I'm attempting to replace both 02 sensors, which, in the case of this particular model year on the 8th gen, is MUCH harder than it appears. ( See my new post 'Problem removing upstream o2 sensor' )
  8. `Alright, new report. My usual mech had to bail on it, but didn't charge me. He said to get dealer diagnosis and he'd fix it for me. My sister decided to have a friends mech look at it ( he works at GM dealership ). He scoped it and said its probably combination of 2 things: 1) bad plugs ( I installed brand new NGK V-Powers w/correct gap .044 ), he installed some NGK Iridiums and that improved it significantly. 2) bad cat coverter - he said the computer is dumping more fuel that needed because of downstream o2 sensor. I can't believe the plugs were to blame for all this..I know that IACV was filthy, so perhaps this was 2 things causing 1 problem. It had a very rough idle even before i changed the plugs from some 3yr old Iridiums to the V-Power plugs. I guess Corollas will run best on them. We will replace the cat and see it that improves things further.
  9. Check out this video to diagnose if you have an intake leak..too easy...but remember..COLD ENGINE. ( the video uses vacuum leak, but this will also work if you have manifold leak, just spray by intake manifold edge) ( I'm have the same problem on 00 and did all you listed too. It even stumped my usual mechanic ) the current diagnosis is 1) bad spark plugs ( brand new NGK V-Power ) and bad cat converter, which causes computer to run long term fuel trim levels too high.
  10. That 'Oil Consumption Fix' video by Phoenix and Dad based on that forum thread from 'that other board' is very good. I discovered it last winter when i was toying with the idea. It does show over 90 mins how to basically R&R the pistons , bearings, and head, If you're up to the work vs. just paying for a rebuilt engine ($1500-$3000) and R&R cost ( in my area, probably between $500-$1000). Some shade tree mechanics would rather spend a couple grand than spend weeks or months bent over the engine bay.
  11. thanks for the reply fish.. So the mech has had it for almost a week, He told me his tech was having problem diagnosing it. He claims he replaced the spark plugs ( i had almost brand new NGK V-Power set in it ), replaced the MAF sensor ( I had just replaced it before bringing it in ) and replaced 2 fuel injectors, and the car is running better, but he still wants to do some more tests on it. The engine was stumbling before and after i replaced the i don't think they had anything to do with the problem. I've never heard of fuel injectors not operating properly until the engine is at operating temp. If they are clogged or partially functioning, would having them 'hotter' have them operate better? Im giving him the benefit of the doubt, as the car was exhibiting symptoms of a bad or poorly operating IACV. Will see what he says next week after more testing.
  12. So my 2000 CE ( 144k) started having the 'poor cold idle and acceleration' problem. Found its usually due to either 1)dirty MAF sensor 2)coked up/dirty Idle air control valve or throttle body 3) Leaking Intake Manifold gasket. I sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake manifold when the car was idling. No change, so gasket is still good. I worked in the order of ease, first cleaned out the throttle body and plate. No difference Next, I cleaned the MAF sensor with throttle body cleaner ( yes, you CAN use throttle body cleaner on these, as they are hot wire, not hot film. Still bad idle. Next, I installed a brande new MAF sensor. Still bad idle. Next, I removed the throttle body and cleaned it very well. I also removed the 4 incredibly stubborn phillips screws holding the IAC valve on ( to change the coolant gasket and clean the IAC valve better. Yes is was incredibly dirty in there, and the plate was hard to move. Those 4 screws were impossible for me to get off! I soaked them in PB blaster, and used a bit of heat from a butane torch. I was forced to bring them into my mech who used air tool, and still 2 of the screws broke off. After reassembly w/clean as a whistle IAC valve and coolant gasket. The bad idle seems to be fixed, but now the acceleration is very stumbling even when the engine is warmed up. BTW why Toyota chooses to design their IAC valve so coolant goes through it is beyond me. I did read in a blog somewhere that the design 'increases efficiencey'. Don't know why. I'll have to also note due to my stupidity, i removed the nut holding the throttle cable guide on the throttle body, as I thought i'd have to remove it since I couldn't get the throttle cables off the plastic guide bracket. It seems a previous owner or mech used silicone or glue on the metal cylinder ends to hold the cables in place I finally used alot of force and got both cables removed, but forgot i had removed the nut so the the plastic guide fell off, along with the 2 springs. It turns out these 2 springs are very difficult to reinstall properly, as one of them holds the throttle plate open just a little bit on idle. I couldnt find any diagrams to put the springs back on, so i just 'guessed' their correct installation, which would hold the throttle place shut and provide enough tension to close the plate. I also replaced the intake manifold gasket anyway, since I had everything else off, and i've read this model gasket start leaking air anyways After I got everything back together, including new throttle body gasket. The car is even worse than before. So i gave up and took it into my mech, who tried over 30 mins to diagnose it, but couldn't. He said i should just get a new throttle body at a junkyard and put that in, because of the springs being calibrated incorrectly, which he couldn't do, only the dealer, who would probably charge at least $600 for new throttle body. So now i'll have a dirty throttle body again, but hopefully the car will be idling correctly again. If someone has the diagrams or service manual pages on the correct procedure to re-installed the throttle cable guide bracket and springs, i'd much appreciate it.
  13. Do a dry and wet..I'm curious about the results. ETCG videos are corney, but he knows alot and i usually learn something from them:
  14. Wow, you consume 1 qt in 160 miles at 80mph but only 1.5 q every 1000 miles in city? Sounds like alot of wet compression on the highway but lots of dry in city. Not as bad as my 98..which was consuming 1 qt every 500-800 miles. Looks like i'll be doing the 'Bennie'piston ring repair' this summer as it hasn't starting since February ( 30lbs #1 30lbs #2 )..looks like I'm starting a timing chain thread this weekend, maybe removing timing chain cover..

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