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About gvr4ever

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  1. 40psi is not needed. I've done it with 34psi. I agree with some of the hypermillers techniques except over inflated tires and pulse and glide. While 40psi isn't over inflated, some of the post of read on other forums are just down right scary. Pulse and glide might work down hill while drafting a large truck, but that is the only way. People who claim greater fuel economy by pulse in gliding on flat roads are full of crap. If it actually worked, it would be free energy, but that doesn't exist. I've also seen many shows where people try to duplicate such claims and they don't get any better fuel economy. Things that actually work: Try and cost up to red lights so you don't have to start from a stop when it turns green. It takes a lot of energy to get a car up to speed from a stop, starting from 10mph instead of 0 is something. This is probably the hardest thing to do. You pretty much have to know the road and the lights, but once figured out, you should really minimize your complete stopped takeoffs. Drafting trucks on the HWY works. Just don't tailgate or do stupid things. Drafting 50' back helps out. Shutting off the engine helps, but you have to know how much fuel your car takes to start for it to be really effective. I only turn mine off at rail road tracks, known long red lights. People who do it all the time have not likely paid to have a starter replaced. Not sure on a Corolla, but on another car of mine, changing it would involve removing the intake manifold. Aside from driving skills that work, and trying to avoid the snake oil that does nothing but wear your starting and tires out faster, just driving a slower top speed helps. Driving 55MPH got me 43MPG once, and I was stuck in Chicago rush our traffic trying to leave town to get to the HWY. I wish I had a scan gage to know what it can really get at 55MPH. Sammy Hagar said it best tho. I can't drive 55.
  2. If you've changed one clutch, you've changed them all. Really, it's not going to be that much different. Only thing you really should need is the torque specs for the axle hub bolts, and flywheel and clutch bolts. Just remember to unplug the battery (you never know, it's just something that is smart to do) Drain the trans fluid before you remove the half shafts and make sure they are back in before you try and refill. Other then that's it's just safety stuff. Use zip lock bags for all the bolts, write what they are, and keep everything in order. If your not sure how something might go back together, take a digital picture first and take notes.
  3. My sister has a Solara. It's nice to look at, but not really a sports car. Maybe a sports touring coupe at best. The Corolla XRS could drive circles around a Solara. It has much sportier suspension and tires. Even has a stock strut tower brace. IMO, they are nothing alike. Get a Solara if you want a touring coupe and get the XRS if you want to rev out a 6sp gear box and take corners fast.
  4. Run fresh oil and change it on time and red line shouldn't be a issue. Different car, but I had a Escort GT as my first car and it had a Mazda DOHC 1.8l in it. I revved that thing out all the time, and I do mean all the time and I personally put over 200K miles on it. The rev limit is their for a reason. I'd go for the Corolla XRS, but that is just me. It is faster then a regular corolla below 7K RPMs too. Those reviews are just silly. I test drove one with serious intent to buy and it is much nicer then the regular corolla. They only had a rose color one that day and we had a lemon to unload, so we got a regular corolla. The XRS wants premium fuel, so if you get one, feed it what it wants, or it probably really won't have much more power over a standard Corolla.
  5. The only reason to run synthetics on a Corolla is really to attempt to get the most fuel economy from less friction. Also, in case you can stop everything for a oil change when it's due. If you care about your warranty, don't stray from the weight or the duration of oil changes that are in your owners manual. If you want to try and push the limits of your oil, don't expect Toyota to cover you if you have any problems. I run Mobil 1 5w 30 with a Napa Gold filter in our 05.
  6. 50lbs is probably too much. Just make sure it's snug, but don't over tighten it. Torque specs are important, but other bolts are more important then other. Mechanics don't break out a torque wrench for a lot of basic stuff. Things that should be dead on are things like flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, hub nuts, etc. I'm pretty picky about lug nuts bolts myself. I'm sure I'm missing a few, but I usually don't bother breaking out the torque wrench.
  7. Are you driving a US spec car in Germany? Most lower mileage is going to come from quick starts and stops. Weather, gas and things can make a difference. The people who get the high fuel economy generally have a 5sp and are not in a hurry at all. Low RPM shifts, feather light gas pedal, etc. It takes some work and even some concentration.
  8. I rate the Integritys not just as crap, but down right dangerous. They are the worse tires I have ever driven on. They are pure crapola. You could probably get a huge upgrade by getting no name generic performance upgrades.
  9. I can't speak for the Napa shocks. Aside from that, I would choose the GR-2s. They are the only affordable shocks I've seen that are tubular, and not seam welded rounded flat metal.
  10. First Gear

    Check the fluid.
  11. Do you stop from 70MPH on a daily basis? If you do, I don't think you can really blame the brakes on a Corolla. Any non performance computer is going to get brake fade from that kind of driving. You can always just upgrade the front brakes and 4 tires and be done with it. Rear drums aren't that bad. Most of the braking is taken care of by the front brakes. Also, rear disk can sometimes cost a lot to replace. Most if not all modern cars have a drum style e-brake in the middle of the disk. It's like a two in one. Also, reading the first post, the guy locked up the tires. Doesn't sound like bad brakes. Sounds like bad tires and or a bad driver. I don't think you can accurate data on ow the brakes are just by how many you see front end damage. Rear ends are almost always due to bad drivers. Sometimes bad weather, but almost always from people tail-gating, driving too fast, or just not paying attention when traffic stops in front of them. I've seen it over and over before. It's even happened right behind me before. People get all pissed cause I leave a gap, and then when traffic stops, I can stop and the car behind me can stop, but then BOOOOOOM!!!!!!!! Perfectly dry roads with sunshine too.
  12. They don't have bad brakes, but if you want a car that can do 70-0 stops often, a Corolla isn't the car for you. The stock brakes are good for at least one emergency stop. 70-0 shouldn't ever really be a issue. How often do you stop on the interstate?
  13. The GR-2s are a great shock. I have them on a turbo car and they are nicer then the stockers, but you keep all your ride quality. They are 100% streetable. A lot of guys run GR-2 with mild street springs for a great upgrade. For the guys who want sport, but don't race enough on the weekends to give up DD comfort.
  14. This question has been asked to death. Try a search.
  15. I buy parts online if I have too. If I find a price online, and I want it quickly, I try the local toyota dealer. They are usually good at matching prices + plus shipping. If not, I walk, but so far, I haven't been screwed. Just be prepared to walk I guess.