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About jeff88

  1. Glad to hear it is in the right hands again! But now you have to take some pics so we can see it! Also, if you are concerned about personal info, you might want to edit it all out (e.g. the thread title).
  2. I didn't notice a major ride height change, but I will double check the measurements and get back to you. Did you double check that they are installed properly?
  3. The Corolla has OEM alloys? Mine has steelies and I have been looking to get alloys for it.
  4. Does this mean we can't reply?... Oops. You can't leave us hanging though. What's the new car look like? Sucks it took so long for the check to come in.
  5. I am not surprised if your shocks are bad that you have skidding issues. When my rear struts were toast, whenever I was doing a high speed turn, especially downhill, the car would fishtail a little. Fixed the struts, fixed the problem. So skidding is no surprise. The easiest way to tell if they are shot is to push down on each corner of the car. Push down on the hood near the headlight and if you hear a scraping sound, you know that side is bad. If they have the swoosh type sound that a new strut has, then they are probably good, but remember 'trust but verify'. Do the same on the other side and then again on each side of the trunk/rear bumper. Are you sure that you don't have ABS? It was an option in that year, just not common. You do have an LE though, so it is more likely. According to, it's $800+ for the rear struts labor and $400+ for front struts labor. $200+ for parts is standard according to them. Tire price seems about right, just from my personal experience. You can get a serpentine belt on Amazon for about $20. (Confirm this is the right one for the '98, but it should be about the same price no matter what.) I wouldn't spend $60 on a serp, shop around. But I also wouldn't spend $60 for labor for such an easy job. You just need a socket wrench. Honestly, if you can do any of your own work, you can do everything except mount tires (and the Associated procedures - for safety reasons). Save yourself a lot of money and do it yourself in less than a day.
  6. Glad you got the pics to work. Those links look horrendous! Glad you replaced them before something happened. Now that you got the pics working, any pics of the final setup? Also, on a side note, what's up with putting Franz in your avatar after finding out the U.S. and Germany are in the same group? U.S.A., U.S.A., U.S.A.!!!
  7. Just to be sure, press the 'links' button, then use the 'IMG code' for forums, boards. And then paste it into your reply. Is this what you are doing? As far as the FCS struts go, did you get the ones that I posted or a different model, same brand? The struts I got had the entire assembly already, so I'm confused about what you did.
  8. Good luck, I can say for at least 8 months the FCS struts hold up well! As far as the photo posting, are you using a photo domain like photobucket?
  9. If I remember correctly, there is a bolt and nut for the third one. I think it's just like that for versatility, so it can be used for different applications.
  10. FWIW, I ordered these for my rear struts. So far they have worked really well. They already had the springs, so no need to compress the springs, which I really didn't want to do (and my friend who was helping me REALLY didn't want to do). They were really easy to install. Just undo the brake line clip, a couple of bolts, the three on top of the seat and then put the new one on with reverse installation. Cut a notch in real quick for the brake line with a reciprocating saw and you're good to go. You might be able to get them cheaper on Black Friday or Cyber Monday. (There actually cheaper right now as I write this then when I bought them.)
  11. Unfortunately, I can't help from personal experience. I would like to get a TRD strut bar, but availability, price and a long list of other things to do makes this a back burner mod. I also don't generally race around corners either. So, best answer to 'is it worth it', would be to work within your driving style. If you regularly race or drive fast, then maybe a good idea. If you drive 55 on the 65 highway, maybe not. This TN thread might be of some help. Strut Tower Bars and LCA's This link was in the thread. TRDSparks Strut Bar
  12. You could always go to a junk yard, though no guarantee you can get the clips off without breaking them.
  13. I haven't even had it long enough for one cleaning, but so far it has worked well. Can't say if it has added power or not, at least nothing majorly noticeable. If it lasts more than 2-3 cleanings, it will end up saving me money on filters. It's an oil-less washable filter. aFe Air Filter Hope this helps!
  14. I switched out my rear struts back in July using the FCS struts on Amazon. FCS Struts I like the price point and the decent reviews, so I picked them up. The only caveat is that you have to cut out a notch for the brake line or bleed the brakes. My friend (whose house I did the job at) is a roofer/contractor, so I just used his saw-zall with a metal cutting blade on it. Cut a notch, attached the brake line clip and all has been fine since. It was definitely worth the extra money compared to others I found on Amazon, since I didn't have to re-compress the spring. This was my first strut change and it was pretty easy. The hardest part was getting things off that have been torqued in there for a really long time. I just got a long pipe and put it on the end of the wrench and the nuts would finally give way. Right around the corner is a high speed (50+) down hill, left turn with a bumpy road. I took it a few times before the swap and if I was doing full speed, the rear end would fishtail. Not horribly, but noticeably. When I put the new struts on, no fishtail. My GF and mom both rode in the car on separate occasions and they noticed how smooth it was (save for the bumps in the road). As far as longevity goes, obviously I can't speak for that. Come to think of it, I need to do a review on Amazon for these. I would recommend them.
  15. Frank, I actually have only used pre-gapped and have not actually checked the gap they come with before putting them in. The nice thing about the flat circle is that it gives you more options of gap sizes, the issue is that it is not as accurate. The exact opposite with the wire type. Less options, more accurate (in theory). If this is the only car you are working on, I would get the wire type with the gap that works for your plugs. This may help. He uses the flat circle. The only thing I would say is that if you have to hammer the electrode down to narrow the gap, I would put something between the electrode and the hammer, maybe the gap checker tool. I would be more comfortable doing that even though, you aren't going to hit it that hard. Fish may have more insight into that.