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About smug

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  1. I be thinking too much. I still use Mobil 5W30. If it aint broke don't think so much about it.
  2. Since new always used Moble 1 and did all oil/filter changes myself. 1ZZFE is a noisy thing. Its noisy on start up and then when warm is quieter @115k miles. Retired now no longer driving 10-12K miles yearly. More like stop n go around town...5K miles yearly. Rotella might be better oil with the HD additives than Mobil 1 I've heard. Quieter, better stop n go protection. Anyone using Rottela T6 ? I think i give it try. See if quieter.
  3. Since retiring I don't drive the Corolla that much and have been away from the forum. When i bought my 04 new and started driving to work i noticed braking was slowly become poor. One day i had to make a panic stop. Scary. Took car back to dealer and explained situation. They readjusted the rear drums and asked if i used the hand brake any. NO, no need to i said. I was informed on my generation the handbrake adjust the rear drums. Was told to pull on it half dozen or so times and to use it whenever parked. Problem solved. Couple time i did have drums manually adjusted as a courtesy by my family tech/mechanic. Helped.
  4. When starting cold during rude Chicago winters it fires up fine and idles. Within a few moments the idle climbs to about 2k and slowly drop down to usual idle. If not real cold, just below or around freezing may not do it at all. What components should i be checking. 04 115k miles, mostly self maintained, have factory manuals. All original electrical components, sensors. Fresh plugs. Thanks.
  5. I too have TRD springs they help with crosswinds and just make the car a better car IMHO.
  6. Delayed responce, When Chicagoland winter eases will check sway bar end links, and inner tie rod ends. Replace sway bar bushes while back. Narrowed rattle down to hitting a bump at specific angle. Thanks dom.
  7. Let me put it this way...anybody know if a Toyota Tech would have a sequence to start a check of typical front supension components, bushings etc. for wear that could cause mystery rattles ? Said components on 1st post were replaced. There is no particular rattle driving my nuts. The front end is nice and tight, aligned all the basic is good. I have factory manuals. It could be an old car that under certain bumps make different noises. Checked the inner wheel well liners, under engine plastic shields etc. getting old is not fun.
  8. Can someone give me the sequence to eliminate front end components for rattle/wear, At 96k, new struts, ball joints, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings. now 109k, well cared for. thanks
  9. Hello, 04 corolla has front end rattle. At 96k new struts,ball joints , control arm bushings, wheel bearing/wear checked, sway bar bushings r/r. now 109k, well maintained. With this in mind, can those in the know give me a sequence to check front end components and narrow down and eliminate causes. Thanks.
  10. No No, the R n R for the control arms my mechanic will do next thursday. Im curious. I had a 84 VW GTI hit some unmarked construction and bent a controll arm. No noticeable changes in handling. The mechanic said he straightened it for me. It was a very different type control arm thats simpler in design and can be straight edged and straightened with a vise and some force,when applicable. Thats long time ago. The corolla arm is nothing in comparison having no straight edges to gauge from. Just wondering if somebody knows of a way to check. Quality steel bicycle frame alignment can be determined using strings and tubes straightened. Been wondering if the corolla control arm was placed on a large flat surface something could be measured or checked or whatever. If a control arm is bent how would the car behave and steer? Curiosity.
  11. Anyone have experience,advise on how to check for a bent lower control arm for a home garage,shade tree mechanic? As in visual and straight edge simplicity. Car has no problems but i like to know. Might be doing the R n R myself for rear bushings and new ball joints. I got Whiteline rear bushings Dom. Having machine shop do the pressing, as you recommended. Doing ball joints too.
  12. Whiteline is much easier to find than Energy Suspensions bushes like yours. The E.S. bushes are what i want ,i can do it myself. Whiteline got that ' void angle' ,got no idea. I know what you mean the length of time can't be said. I keep looking for Energy Suspesion bushes, theres a lot of miss quoted part #'s and inaccurate application descriptions from vendors and EBAY. To many sound like the correct bushing but so far I've only found Whiteline to be correct bush. Thanks for all your help. I'll post my experience when finished. Maybe a while. I'd love to hand the job over to my mechanic. Ive recently retired and still adjusting to life on a limited fixed income. Every $ counts.
  13. Thanks for the helpful Toy Nation posts. Here it is... tools....ramps to drive onto for less jacking up,(then wheels removed) jack stands,floor jack, 12 ton bottle jack,factory jack,cheap HF impact gun,sockets,wrenches,etc..should i assume the impact wrench is a must tool? must borrow compressor. apparently must remove battery and surrounds to get to trans mount and loosen that. Crap! follow factory manual procedures,much of it like R n R sway bar bushings and end links which i just did. This time must unbolt ball joints and 4 steering rack bolts,separate from sub member. The stubborn horizontal bolt, not sure how you broke it loose. Impact wrench didn't work, so you joined bunch of 1/2 extensions onto the socket on the bolt long enough to stick out beyond front bumper. then fixed breaker bar to extension end and physically broke the bolt free? Did you have a jack stand support the extensions just before the breaker bar for a pivot/fulcrum point? Im an old guy with no helpers. You must be strong. On the Toy Nation posts somebody said its a 10 hour job,true? A lot of labor must go into removing stuff to get to the trans mount. The R n R of the rear bushings doesn't seem a great deal of labor. Especially using Energy Suspension bushings. Wonder when doing all this labor when it gets time to replace the bushings wish would have bought arms with bushings and bolt em right up. This will become a weekend job I'm sure,so I think the frustration from a lot labor will be manageable. Any advise on this? 10 hours? New arms more $ spent and the included bushings not as good as Energy Suspensions,Whiteline etc. Im cheap,sometimes that comes with a high price of another means.
  14. MMMM,well i just checked out White Line rears on Ebay. Top shelf quality. Wonder how much hassle,labor to press out the old and press in the new. When you changed your rear bushes you didn't think doing the front ?. How did you decide it wasn't necessary? A simple pry test? Myself being a home garage guy i figure if the rears are shot then the fronts aren't far behind. Maybe thats not the case. I'd like to learn from your experience............maybe just get rears and save more $.