Accent 1ZZFE

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About Accent 1ZZFE

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  • Birthday 08/25/1976
  1. Fish, Im surprised you havent added something here. Someone is obviously reading this thread. News - Ive been quoted at least $400 just to pop the valve cover and to check and adjust a couple valve clearances, valve cover gasket has to be replaced too apparently, cant it re-used if no cuts or leaks? If all 16 valves are checked, and require re-adjusting, the bill tops out to around $850. Would you think this is reasonable? Apparently both the inlet and exhaust cams have to be removed as well? How long does a valve clearance inspection take? I just want to confirm what Ive been told is accurate. The car still drives fantastic and never an issue with powertrain, just thee odd intermittent tick on idle when engine is warmed up. Cold start sounds fine. $850 for me is plenty of oil and filter changes, so if its lasted this long so far with no hiccups, Im inclined to continue driving doing servicing every 5,000km til I reach 200,000km and then get get the covers popped, suggestions? Feedback? Still using 95 grade fuel and no signs of loss of power, may change plugs soon.
  2. Just recently Ive noticed the engine is starting to make a little intermittent rattle whilst idling, the sound doesnt present itself whilst the car is moving or when its accelerating. Now, Ive serviced this car since new every 5-7500km and I havent even looked at the owners manual or service booklets once till a few days ago. Came as a surprise to me when I read that it needs valve clearance adjustments every 40,000km, I thought the 1ZZFE has self adjusting hydraulic lifters, I thought wrong. Car is almost to 120,000km, never been redlined but it has been involved in a minor collision not long ago which Im sad to inform those of you who have taken an interest to the reliability of my 1ZZFE, other driver pulled out in front, couldnt stop in time, kapow, lucky no one was injured and airbags didnt go off. Still drives the same though repair quality is so so, looks fine to the average person but recognisable if you know what to look for. Is it worth doing the adjustments? Can I continue to keep driving just changing oils/filters without too much worry of dropping a valve? I also havent changed the fuel filters either but have run higher octane fuel since new, do you think it needs the fuel filter changed too? Cheers for any light that you can shed on my questions.
  3. Ive talked to a couple tech buddies of mine so Im unsure what route to take on this issue. I have an 04 Corolla, on hot days, when I start the AC, theres a horrible smell coming from the vents initially, smells like pee. My tech buddies say you can use some kind of aerosol air cleaner to spray into the vents to remove the smell and bacteria, however theres the possibility of damaging the AC switches, system, heater core, this was another make and model the advice was provided for, though my concern is whether such products would damage a Corolla. So what is the best way to remove the smell? Or do I have to put up with it and not risk damaging the AC components?
  4. Fish, are you still on original O2 sensors? I havent had a look underneath, how many are there? When did you change your spark plugs over? ATM Im concerned that fuel usage may be a bit high, about 110km per 1/4 tank of fuel though this is a rough estimate just by going off the dash gauges. Ill have to try a serious fuel mileage test this weekend. If I can achieve your benchmark of 32-36mpg for a 1ZZFE, Ill be pleased.
  5. Thats awesome to hear, is it a Japanese, South African or American made Corolla? Original pads and rotors? You must do alot of highway travelling, we just had the pads swapped over and they had about 2-3mm left, plenty on the rotor though. No battery corrosion here, but would you believe we are STILL on the original battery with no corrosion? Just cell topups with distilled water.
  6. In general if you run a smaller tyre/rim, the car should feel punchier from a stand still and roll on. The weight savings made in the rims and tyres and the altered rolling diameter of the wheel/tyre combo contribute to improved throttle response. The performance wont be drastically altered by going to a lower profile tyre, expect more stiffness in the sidewall and you may experience a harsher ride but be rewarded with better handling and turning. Not sure of the legalities where you live, here our tyres must abide by the mimimum load index and speed ratings as specified by Toyota.
  7. On a high mileage car, you should be using a thicker grade oil, I would be going with a 10W/40, 5W/30 is way too thin given your mileage imo. Id be cautious about using any additives in the oil or fuel system which act as a "flush". It may do more harm than good by dislodging a blockage and shifting it elsewhere in the oil or fuel system. Switch to a higher octane fuel, most which already contain cleaning agents, octane booster and change your oil regularly to avoid deposits or blockages. Are you sure its pinging and not engine rattle due to worn internals? If you use a high octane fuel you should notice straight away the car is idling quieter and smoother after a few miles travelled. Is the car blowing any blue coloured smoke from the tailpipe on cold start up or when the throttle is applied? Seems to me like theres something on the inside that isnt healthy because pinging is easily cured with good fuel.
  8. Pinging does exist in modern cars despite knock sensors, just because you cant hear it, doesnt mean that it doesnt occur, especially when you have high revving, high compression motors. The 95 octane fuel we get here with ethanol is cheaper than regular 91 octane fuel, and especially with summer coming round soon, its a safer bet to use higher octane. The car does feel stronger with the higher octane going by seat of the pants experience, I believe using 95 runs the car more often under "optimum" conditions since the ethanol affects the AFRs by leaning them out slightly and as most of you are aware, all cars run very rich from factory, lean them out and there are gains to be made, however a remap of the ECU is required to take "full" advantage of the better grade fuel. I also use the higher grade because of cleaning agents and the ethanol which helps remove moisture buildup.
  9. Gday Everyone, This is my experience of our Japanese made 04 Corolla sedan. After 106,959kms, 3 years and 3 months, freezing winters and boiling summers, the Corolla is still going strong so it seems. Never been back to the dealer since taking delivery. Areas of concern are front tyre wear, the control switch which allows outside air to be used in the cabin is inoperative ( stuck on re-circ ) and an intermittent ( 1 or 2 every 5-8 seconds ) knocking sound which can be heard at idle after the engine has warmed up, but doesnt occur during cold start. Im a bit worried about the knock after reading about the failure of the 1ZZFE in the States and Toyota not coming to the table with any help, Ive isolated the sound to be coming from the left side of the motor when viewed from the front of the car. This car runs on a diet of E10 95RON premium juice and 10W/40 grade oil changes every 5,000 -7,500km and only today, got its 1st pad/brake fluid and power steering flush, discs were not machined. Overall we've been very happy with the vehicle, only concern is the slight rattle during idle, welcome your thoughts on the possible cause, thought it was pinging at 1st but Im using higher grade fuel. Spark plugs have not been changed, will change over at 110K.
  10. Late model Corollas have paint with a layer of clear coat on top. You might not like what Im going to say but dark colors are difficult to maintain, they require regular washing, polishing and waxing, that being said I do own a black car, yes most car nuts do, and its a passion of mine to keep it looking its best. Dont get a black car if you dont enjoy detailing your car. What I would do is hand polish it to regain as much shine as possible, you could use a rotary or orbital buffer to save time and effort but theres the risk of damaging the paint if used incorrectly. Take your time and do it by hand. 1st wash the car, then clay the surface to remove all contaminants, apply polish ( I use Meguiars products ), then a layer of wax. It should come up looking near new, even if the clear is worn down, there should be enough paint thickness to polish up, just make sure you wax often after the initial polish to protect from bird poo and anything else. Best thing to do if your car gets pooed on, get it off ASAP!!!!
  11. I have read this thread with great interest which has led me to offer my take on it. ( hi to all the regs out there who make this board so cool to visit every so often ) Arbitration to me sounds like a long drawn out bullsnip process, a waste of your time, effort and money, I think the best thing you can do is post this thread on every Toyota related forum as well as show it to the dealer you bought your car from. I own a Japanese made Aussie spec 04 Corolla which is running superbly with 102,000km clocked over just recently, all the servicing has been done by me, NEVER been back to the dealership since taking delivery, the car runs like clockwork, and I attribute that to the regular maintenance and my faith in the Toyota brand. Faith meaning my belief in Toyota's renowned reputation for bulletproof reliability and value for money. Fair enough if this car was tracked, raced, abused but as per service schedule? After reading the above posts of an 04 lunching its motor with ONLY 66K miles, I dont care which part of the globe you are from, that is UNACCEPTABLE from ANY Toyota made product if you have followed all the service advice and recommendations. Who's to say that there was a problem and it wasnt picked up during service? Coulda woulda shoulda as the story goes. Come to the table with 50% to cover cost? Mate, I would be telling them, Ill NEVER buy a Toyota or any other brand car from you again and Ill go and tell my family, friends, co-workers and anyone who I happen to stumble across who happens to be considering buying a Toyota about this story and refer them to this thread. The customer service shown here is "absolutely appalling", and after reading this, I would absolutely think twice about purchasing another Toyota from this dealership, or any other for that matter. Have you tried another dealer? I know off the record that some dealerships from other brands will fix a warranty item outside of the warranty period, again this comes down to goodwill and whether they want repeat business, obviously this dealer doesnt want yours or anyone else who happens to know you.
  12. Warranties are not worth the paper they are written on. Its a cash cow for any dealership who will use every excuse under the sun to find an exit clause. Every car Ive bought brand new from any dealership Ive taken delivery with no tinting, no paint protection or fabric protection, not even a wash, straight off the transporter ready to pickup with stickers, plastic and styrofoam still attached. Never taken it back to the dealer either for servicing, all servicing done by me from brand new.
  13. Took delivery of our Corolla in June 04 and its chalked up nearly 100,000km to date. Never been back to the dealer since picking it up, all the servicing has been done by me, including the tyres and alignment. If it doesnt last till at least 250,000km, I will be surprised. All the savings from fuel and servicing will go into any necessary repairs required in the future. One of the most well built and reliable cars Ive had the pleasure to drive.
  14. I would say the problem will highly likely go away if you swap to the same trans and PCM for the same year as the engine, just have to make sure that all the parts are in excellent condition. The headache would be making sure it all fits under the bonnet, the wiring and hooking up all the add ons like power steering, AC, radiator and hoses, hopefully theres aftermarket kits for late model swaps into earlier model Corollas.
  15. If it hasnt been maintained religiously, Id start by doing a couple of oil changes this week to remove as much sludge and crap as possible, make sure you drain the oil when the engine is still warm, change the oil filter too, careful not to burn yourself, and from there change your oil and oil filter every 5-8,000km after. Use a thicker oil to boost compression and to reduce smoking and oil consumption, a 20W/50 grade oil, and ALWAYS take it easy during the 1st 5 mins of driving for the oil to circulate. Its up to you whether to use synthetic or mineral. Change the spark plugs, leads, air filter, coolant, transmission, power steering and brake fluid, check front and rear pads and discs. Use better quality fuel, at least 95 Octane, I use ethanol fuel to help remove any water from the fuel system, and NEVER run your fuel tank low, you will be shocked at how much crap builds up on the bottom of a tank, refill when it reaches a 1/8-1/4 tank. Pump the tyres up to 36psi and the spare to 40psi. From there its just a matter of monitoring the fluids once a fortnight and keep a record of your services when it was done and the mileage. It should last you many years