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About Spyder

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  1. Fish I think its the pulley. I did some searching and found this from wiki answers: "I have done quite alot of research on this very issue for my own 2000 Corolla VE (Auto). If you are refering to a rattling noise that happens while either going up a hill, turning on the AC or even taking off from a stop; then I may have your answer. The noise is caused by the serpentine belt tensioner pully. It was a faulty unit for this our generation of Corollas and even had service recalls on it. Many will say that you need to replace the entire assembly, however I have found that just the pully is necessary to fix the issue. You can purchase this from most parts store for around $15. The repair can be done in a matter of 20min or so. All you have to do is remove the serpentine belt by taking a 19mm socket with cheat bar and releasing the tensioner, then remove the old pully using a (147) star bit, put the new pully on, replace the belt and your good to go. If your belt is worn I would also recomend purchasing a new one." With the low mileage on both the belt and tensioner, I'm inclined to think its just a pulley that needs to be replaced. I will check with Toyota tomorrow to see if they have a replacement pulley. -Spyder
  2. There are lots of little cracks, and while I haven't pulled the belt to examine the whole thing, no sign of excessive wear. The timing could be worse (could be acting up in the middle of winter rather than now), but being about to start the first of at least 2 consecutive night shifts, I won't be able to do anything with it for a few days. This will be another first for me as I haven't had to do anything with the belt myself yet - the previous work was either done by the original owner (the replacement belt on it now) or pre-purchase as part of our cost split agreement (the new tensioner). -Spyder
  3. The low pour point of PP and its cold cranking ability was a big part of what prompted me to switch. Lower pour point means faster lubrication and less start up wear - though engines have gone hundreds of thousands of miles on plain dino their whole lives, and in colder temps than this car will ever see. Pennzoil hasn't updated their PDS yet, but their newly formulated GF-5 spec dino is a very impressive looking oil from the only Used Oil Analysis I've seen on it so far. They are calling it dino, but it definitely contains some good Group III synthetic base stocks as well as a nice additive package. It gives my GF-4 PP a run for the money. -Spyder
  4. You can safely switch to synthetic if you have no existing leaks, it won't create any. I had the same misgivings initially. No leaks after 3,300 km on Pennzoil Platinum 5W30. Mine burned oil before the switch, and it continues to burn it now. Lately its burning less, but I think its related to other things I've been doing. By the way, manyh dino oils these days are already at least partially synthetic (particularly the 5W20) . They don't put that on the bottle, but they use varying amounts of Group III synthetic base oils. The new API SN/GF-5 oil that is coming out now will contain even more Group III then the API SM / GF-4 of today. -Spyder
  5. My Corolla just this morning started making a tell tale "rattle" from the Serpentine Belt. I'm wondering what I'm in for and what the more likely culprit is: the tensioner or the belt. The belt only has 60,000 km on it, while the tensioner was replaced 12,000 km ago. Wondering if its likely the tensioner just needs adjusting, or if its more likely something more involved like replacing the belt. Seems premature for the belt to start to go this soon, particularly when it checked out ok 12,000 km back when the tensioner was replaced. From memory, the tensioner on this gen is a common problem. Any suggestions? -Spyder
  6. How exactly does a high mileage oil mask the symptoms? I worded that incorrectly; I should have stated it masks the cause (failure of the oil control rings, and oil leaking past them where its burned off during combustion) by treating the symptoms (being thicker than its non-HM counterparts within the same grade, less oil gets past the faulty oil control rings, and therefore less is burned off during combustion). HM 'works' in reducing consumption, but it doesn't achieve its results - where the cause if burn off due to failed oil control rings, rather than leakage from say worn gasket not sealing properly, it reduces consumption yet the underlying cause remains and HM oil doesn't address that directly. The other methods have the potential to, but require either hands on work (with the piston soaks) or time to see the benefit begin to work (use of UCLs and mos2 to correct the problem at the source, in a similar means as with piston soaks but over a much longer interval of time). HM oil has the advantage that any potential results it offers can be seen immediately, and without the hands on work of a piston soak, but the disadvantage that unlike the other methods, it is not addressing the underlying cause directly; instead it is reducing the effect, consumption, by treating the symptom (using its relative thickness to lessen loss through the oil control rings and into the combustion stroke where its burned off). -Spyder
  7. I'm not sure which link you're looking for, but there are threads on Lubro Moly mos2 in the oil additives and VOA sections (no more than 2 or 3 pages deep) on BITOG. Within the first couple pages of fuel additives section on BITOG you can everything you ever wanted to find out about different upper cylinder lubricants (UCLs), including MMO and TC-W3, the ones I mentioned in earlier posts. I don't think ARX is effective because the problem is upper cylinder related, and in my opinion ARX is not the most cost effective, or generally effective, route to go. If you do a search on BITOG for Molasoke and Molasoak you will find alternative approaches that I think are the most effective at direct, immediate results gains. You may have to repeat piston soaks several times before its effective - just because it doesn't reduce oil consumption on the first or second try, doesn't mean its not going to work. My recommendation if going the piston soak route is to inject 2 ounces of MMO into each cylinder, and allow it soak 8 to 16 hours. Eject the MMO by cranking with the spark plugs out and a lint free cloth, placed loosely, to catch the residue placed, over the cylinders. Then follow it up with2 ounces of LC20 into the cylinder (the Molasoke) repeating the same process. Make sure to crank with plugs out to avoid hydrolock. Then start the engine, run it a few minutes to allow the oil to circulate, and then drain it and refill. Do a short OCI of 3k with something like PYB, and (optionally) add 12 ounces of MMO (to a 4 quart sump) for the last 1,000 miles of the OCI. Monitor the consumption throughout, but pay special attention to the first 2k; this is because MMO may slightly increase consumption over the last 1k if added (this is to be expected and not an indication of the method not working). If oil consumption is stopped, repeat the process, evaluate the results. Rinse, recylce, and see where you're at after three cycles (if needed). At that point, the problem is either cured or its time to move on to other measures. The one I alluded to in my previous post, come spring, is that method outlined above exactly, although I'm substituting Quaker State dino for PYB, for those short OCIs. I'm also stepping my 3 season oil upto a 10W30 instead of a 5W30 as my research has shown me that, due to higher flash point, HTHS, and lower NOACK, it is more burn off resistant than 5W30. I will continue to use 5W30 for our winters. If consumption is not satisfactor with this method, Lubro Moly motor oil saver shows promise and can be added to synthetic, dino, or HDEO oil. I would not add it to High Mileage oil like MaxLife, etc. If you're not comfortable going the piston soak route, this is a safe alternative as well that shows promise and is inexpensive. Lubro Moly products are available from Napa, among other places. I check in here regularly but I'm also on BITOG a lot using Spyder7 as my user name; best bet to contact me is to shoot me a PM over there and I will be too happy to help in any way I can. This is a topic I discuss a lot over there on the boards, and via PM with other users in the same boat as us (some are Toyota owners, but not all). This is the outline of my own approach, after much research and discussion with other members on BITOG, including things I'm doing now and future steps I plan to take after my winter experiment is over. I'm not selling a cure to the problem, but if anything is going to work short of a rebuild, then this approach (from my research) promises to yield the best results as its aimed at the culprit deliberately, rather than using thick oil and or HM oil to mask the symptoms but ignore the cause. -Spyder
  8. As Fish has said, its hit or miss on oil consumption with this generation of Corolla. Some develop the problem at some point, others never due. My initial approach to the problem involving some hands on stuff, after getting good feedback here from Fish and a couple others: I bought the repair manual, replaced my air filter, cleaned the throttle body and butterfly valve with throttle body cleaner, cleaned the MAF sensor with contact cleaner, and replaced my gummed up 10 year old factory PCV valve. With the mechanical stuff done, I began to explore methods to clean the engine and upper cylinder, reduce wear, and reduce oil consumption. After some research I settled on: - Penzz Platinum 5W30 oil with 10% MMO added as a catalyst to safely clean the engine over time. PP, being a good synthetic, has the added value of reducing start up wear due to its very good cold flow properties that allow it to begin circulating and lubricating faster than conventional alternatives (this is a big bonus in the coming cold winter); - use of PEA based fuel system cleaner at 5,000 km intervals for combustion chamber cleaning, followed by the use of upper cylinder lubricants that (theoretically) have the potential to free the rings by reducing deposits and lubricating the upper cylinder they glide along during the power stroke. My regimen is Regane for the PEA cleaner (one treated tank every 5,000 km), followed by 3 or 4 MMO treated tanks, and then TC-W3 two stroke oil (at a 500:1 mixture) in each tank of fuel until the next Regane cycle is due. MMO is thought to be a little stronger on the solvency side, and TC-W3 a little better on the lubrication side. Both have properties of each, and I view them as complementary, although I use them independently (that is, I don't treat a tank with both additives at the same time; instead I cycle them as outlined above); - most recently, I added Lubro Moly mos2 to my oil: half a bottle initially, with one quarter bottle maintenance treatments to follow. Moly is an 'old school' additive and also a component in many (maybe all) piston ring designs. Amounts in modern PCMOs (passenger car motor oil) varies from little to none. The only oil I know that still contains significant amounts of moly is Redline, although its expensive. LM mos2 is an inexpensive additive that ups the moly count in your oil while changing no properties of it otherwise. Its called an 'anti-wear' additive as it works by plating itself to the metals present in pistons, cylinder walls, rings etc. This fills in pores and provides a lubricating film that reduces wear. As consumption in our 8th gen burners is due to failure of the oil control rings from ring "stick" and wear, mos2 shows promise in addressing both issues directly. My approach is atypical and largely theoretical: its based on the known cause and treatment aimed directly at correcting or fixing the cause using products that show promise in this area, but for which potential results are mainly theory based (though this is also backed by anecdotal reports from others with consumption due to the same cause having reported success at reducing or eliminating it using each of these methods independently). None of these methods work immediately or over night. Just like it took many thousand miles for the oil consumption problem to develop, some amount of time has to be allowed for when choosing methods like this that are aimed at the source of the problem, but take time for their potential effects to show measurable results. The first of these measures (the OC to PP) was done 3,000 km ago, and MMO was added to the oil 2,000 km ago. Likewise, the additives mentioned have been introduced at different points, with mos2 being the most recent addition (about 500 km ago). I have recently observed reduction in consumption, but its too early to verify or measure. I will report back though when I have numbers to give. Note too that, as I indicated these measures take time to work, I am planning to continue with this method right til Spring without introducing any changes or further additives; although I may add an additional 8 ounces of MMO to the oil after temperatures go below freezing, to increase the concentration from 10% to somewhere closer to 15%. Meantime I will simply continue this regimen and track the results. I have additional ideas in mind as well too, but I prefer to give this approach some time to work, and to measure the results, before trying anything else. Edit: I will add that after, probably something on the order of hundreds of hours spent researching the problem, potential solutions, and discussions with others having this issue (including many who have had success at correcting the problem and significantly reducing, or eliminating consumption), that though I have not mentioned every single possible method in this post that may reduce consumption, including the future ones I am considering after the current experiment has been given sufficient time to evaluate, that I am skeptical of the utility of Auto RX in correcting this particular problem. Very skeptical (to the point that I personally view it as an over-priced product with limited utility and whose results can be achieved through other, more cost effective measures). I will not be using it. My two cents on ARX. YMMV. -Spyder
  9. I recently bought and added 1/2 a can of Lubro Moly mos2 to my crankcase. This is an "anti-friction" treatment, or more accurately, a molybdenum disulphide additive. Modern API SM oils tend to contain little to no moly, which is a very good anti-wear additive. HDEO diesal oils like Rotella are likely already high in moly (in which case I wouldn't recommend adding it). Moly, over time and due to the heat present at operating temperature, plates itself to the microscopic pits on the combustion chamber metals, forming a protective film. It may aid in better ring seal, thereby boosting compression and lowering oil consumption. Accounts I've read from users state smoother running, quieter engines, and (in a few cases, reduced oil consumption. I plan to add 1/4 can as a maintenance dose to future oil changes while I trend my oil consumption over the winter. If its still not to a level I consider acceptable by next fall, I'm considering adding their Motor Oil Saver product as well, as preliminary research into this looks promising. Another approach, inline with the piston soak method, is to alternate a soak in a solvent like MMO or Seafoam with a lubrication additive called LC20 from Lubrizol. The basic idea is that the solvents will break down upper cylinder deposits while the LC20 will lubricate the upper cylinder directly and help free the sticky rings up. This may have to be repeated several times to be effective. Were I to go this route, I would do one soak about 50 miles before the oil change. After the OC, I'd monitor consumption, and if no improvement (or not enough improvement) shorten the oil change interval and do a second soak with the other product (MMO the first time, LC20 the second time) again 50 miles before the OC. I'd continue this until oil consumption was where I wanted or I'd done 6 soaks (3 with MMO, 3 with LC20, alternating products each soak) total. Again, I may try this over next summer (before resorting to Motor Oil Saver) and aquired some good but cheap dino juice for those short OCIs (thanks to a good Walmart rollback on Quaker State Peak Performance). All of the approaches mentioned in this thread show promise. I would not (and in my case, don't) take anything away from a Corolla that develops an oil consumption problem. First thing to check (and imho replace, as its a $10 part) is the PCV valve. Then pick an approach or combination of methods and monitor consumption. Also allow time for any method to work. Just as consumption didn't happen over night (the day after it left the factory), reversing the process often takes time as well. It may take a combintion of approaches and anywhere upto 10-20,000+ miles to see good results; but taking into account how long these engines tend to live for, this is only a small fraction of their lifespan. -Spyder
  10. I'm not sure at what point in its life this car began consuming oil. It was the typical little old lady driven car with mostly short trips, stop and go, and little to no highway. Throw in excessive idling in the winter with its remote start and a clogged PCV valve and you have the perfect recipe for sludge formation, which is where it was when I bought it. I have replaced the PCV valve, and with Pennnzoil Platinum on sale here recently, switched over to that on my last oil change. I also added in 12 ounces of MMO (about a 10% concentration) to help the Platinum along. Its possible in my case that, as in yours, a high detergent oil like Platinum or Rotella may reduce consumption. Mostly right now I'm concerned with cleaning the sludge out, so my efforts have been more focused there then on the consumption. I did though, several tanks back, begin using tc-w3 2 cycle outboard motor oil in my fuel. It has some solvency and is a good upper cylinder lube, so I think it has potential to clean the piston ring deposits out and free them up. More recently I switched to MMO in fuel, it has similar properties but I think its a stronger solvent and less of a lube. Similar idea, I plan to run this for 3 or 4 tanks then switch back to tc-w3 again. More recently I've been looking into a product called Lubro Moly MOS2 which is an anti-friction treatment. One 300 ml bottle contains somewhere on the order of 4,300 ppm of molybdenum disulfide. This is a proven anti-wear additive that different oils contain different amounts of (though not usually in the disulfide flavour). The most I've seen was in Redline. Some oils today have none, mine has very little. Moly works by plating at the microscopic level the pits in pistons, cylinder walls, camshaft lobes, etc. Net effect is less wear, and I have seen some say their consumption problems stopped after a period of using this. Its a well-regarded product by a German engineering outfit that also produces high end engine oils. Its compatabile with synthetic, dino, and blends and doesn't alter the properties of the oil its added to. Even if it doesn't reduce consumption, those that use it indicate their engines feel smoother and cold start easier. I plan on picking up a bottle of it from my local Napa tomorrow and will add half a bottle (this will achieve the recommended dosing of 3-5% concentration) to my sump. Plan to use it every other oil change. Same outfit also puts out a product called Motor Oil Saver. They claim it reduces oil loss through leaking gaskets or burn off through ring or valve issues. I'm still researching this one. If I try it, it will be on my next OC this spring. I also plan to move upto 10W30 PP then from the 5W30 I'm using now, as the 10W looks more resistat to burn off. Meantime I will be running an upper cylinder lubricant every tank, whether MMO or tc-w3, both for lubrication and deposit control. That's my current and near future plan to try and remove the sludge and reduce consumption at the same time. I'm a long ways away from calling it quits and just feeding it oil wholesale. Rotella is also on my list of oils to try as it has a nice detergent package as well and has worked for some. MaxLife has worked as well for others. Too many things to try to think about giving up yet. Despite their ring issues, these 1ZZ-FE engines are very stout and pleasant both to drive and work on. -Spyder
  11. Yep. Plenty of possible things to try to reduce consumption, but none are proven to work for everyone. Among the short list of things I've compiled (but haven't tried all of): - use of an upper cylinder lubricant such as MMO or tc-w3 in fuel. These not only lube the upper cylinder, but can also slowly remove carbon deposits. May free the rings up, which may reduce consumption if the rings aren't also worn or damaged; - use of an HDEO like Rotella to clean the engine out. Similar idea to the above, but different approach and the two can be combined. - removing the plugs over night and soaking the pistons in a solvent like MMO or Seafoam. This is a more direct application of the first idea. - using an oil that is more resistant to burn off and/or thicker. - switching to a high mileage oil like MaxLife; can be combined with the previous idea (by using a thicker grade). A sampling of things that I've come across, though not complete. There is also the ultimate solution when you've tried enough of the above and nothing's worked: look for sales on oil and stockpile. Keep a few quarts in the trunk, check it frequently, and add as needed. As long as it never runs low the engine, inspite of stuck/worn rings, can live a very long life as long as its oil thirst is properly quenched (or you hit on something that reduces it). -Spyder
  12. Possible leak culprit may be the tensioner O-ring. You should have a look at the serpentine belt and check for cracks or excessive wear as well. I would also look under the fill cap for signs of sludge or excessive varnish build up. Clogged PCV valves are a common culprit, cost about $10 and are easy to replace. For that cost, I prefer to simply replace rather than clean. You may have an oil burner as well. Many 8th gen Corollas burn oil. Amounts vary. Your consumption sounds too high for burn off. Likely you have a burner and a leak somewhere, tensioner O-ring is my guess. Mine is also a burner and burns a significant amount of oil. I've gotten used to its thirst and simply check and top up regularly to keep it full. You may be burning oil due to a clogged PCV valve, but you may also have the "sticky rings" syndrome many 8th gen have. Design defect makes the rings prone to sticking, and when that happens consumption starts. No known solution guaranteed to work short of an expensive rebuild, which is unnecessary, as the consumption will have no effect on the lifespan of the engine so long its regularly topped up. There are various things that can be tried to reduce consumption, but the first thing to do is check the PCV valve and find and fix the source of the leak. Edit: even though mine burns significant oil (averaging a quart every 1,200 miles this summer, though it'll decrease when temps drop and winter comes), you would never know it as it doesn't smoke. -Spyder
  13. Lately it could also apply to part of the Mobil lineup here in Canada. They sell Mobil Super 1000 and 2000 here that are designed and made in Canada, but details are hard to find. I've lately taken to calling them Mobil Mystery Oils. As an aside, I popped a P0300 one morning myself on startup. The night before I filled with 87 octane instead of my usual 89 and didn't add the tc-w3 that I usually add. I noticed after that fill that engine didn't sound right and (thanks to a new Scangauge II) my fuel economy readings were also well off what is normal for that highway route I took. Next day I refilled with 89 again and added MMO to the gas as I'd already planned instead of the tc-w3. No codes since and engine sounds and feels right again. I doubt it was the drop in octane. It may have been a bad tank. I'd been skeptical of using tc-w3 or MMO in the fuel previously as upper cylinder lubricants (in that I used them because they were cheap and possibly beneficial, but this type of benefit is hard to quantify). With the low cost in difference between 87 and 89, and same for tc-w3 and MMO both being cheap fuel additives, my skepticism is gone and I've decided to stick with 89 and either additive to the fuel. To properly address a likely culprit I really need to stop procrastinating on cleaning my IAC valve. Other than a drain & refill on my coolant, its the only mechanical item remaining on my summer maintenance plan. -Spyder
  14. This forum helped me solve a lot of minor problems I inherited with my car and pointed toward possible solutions for the only two issues remaining. You can go up to a 16" or 17" wheel on your model, but I don't recommend it. I think upsizing just one notch to the 14s will offer the most bang for the buck as they will look a little shaper on nice alloy rims and the weight reduction should boost acceleration. Best of both worlds. I have my own shopping list of things to improve my Corolla with, including: - tinted windows - detailing inside & out (after I finish the inprogress body work I'm doing now) - light weight alloy rims and new, low rolling resistance, tires - resurfacing the pipe, replacing gaskets, replacing the muffler with a Magnaflow and adding a polished steel tip - replacing my instrument lights with blue coloured ones - replacing my front bumper (cracked and clear coat is badly peeled) - replacing my damaged oil pan & plug (using the dipstick hole for now to change the oil - it works well enough but isn't a permanent solution) That's the short list of stuff I've come up with over the last 4 months since buying it. They're a mix of cosmetic and mild performance upgrades (some are both). End goal for me is a sharper looking, more fuel effiecient, and peppier 'rolla. I'll be doing this stuff bit by bit, most of it myself, and estimate the total cost at about $1,500 (a big chunk of that will be tires and lightweight alloy rims). As I got this car for a very good price, and plan to keep it indefinitely (I will store it in the winter when I get a project beater as a winter driver next year), I consider that a fair enough investment for the end result I'm looking to accomplish (sharp but not ricer). -Spyder
  15. 10k and no failed starts, breakdowns, or major repairs. Since taking possession, other than routine maintenance items and frequent OCs, I've replaced a $12 PCV valve. I've also managed to (almost completely) cure a cold start and rough idle problem, lifter tick, diminished power, slow acceleration and hestitation. I've also reversed the sludge problem I inherited with the car and expect the engine to be clean by spring, without using any drastic measures like flushing, etc. The above was done by replacing the PCV valve, cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body, and running a Regane cycle. Also cured a sulphur leaking battery (cleaned, greased, reclamped and no deposits since). I still have an oil consumption issue to deal with and over the winter I'll need to find some new all season tires for next year (8 year old dry rot in the A/S tires it came with won out 8k after buying the car, so I'm using the winters for now - on a bit early but they're in good shape). Some symptoms are cropping up that are pointing to a looming brake job (likely front pads & rotors) in the nea future, but brakes are also standard maintenance items and I was hard on them when I first got the car. I'm pretty impressed with this car (my first Toyota) and am expecting several more years of dependable service from it. I have some things to try on the oil consumption front, but even if nothing works I can feed it Supertech at an extra cost of a couple bucks in oil topups per month and easily live with that. As I haven't tackled that issue yet, I'm not resigned to that route yet.h Other things to try first: MMO in the gas, MMO piston soak, and switching to MaxLife. Only if none of that works will I resign myself to buying cheap oil in bulk & just continuining to feed its thirst (kind of like Saturn fans do, but I think the Corolla is a better car . -Spyder