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About Zack

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  • Birthday June 4
  1. I emailed Dr. Tweak, and the reply that I got was that the GT-S brakes won't work. But the good news is, the rear discs, calipers, and backing plates from a 1993-1999 Celica GT will bolt right up, with no modifications other than redrilling a 4 X 100 bolt pattern on the rotors and installing the handbrake cables. Sweet! If I can get the money saved up, I'll be glad to report on how the job goes when I do it.
  2. This is one of those obscure parts that no one seems to have around when you need one... I agree with plyr503 and Papa Bear, a good salvage yard may be your best bet if you want to avoid dealer prices.
  3. Ball joints often make your steering feel either too tight or too loose, depending on how the suspension is wearing. Look at the rubber boots to see if any grease is oozing out, or if the boot is cracked or even missing. You might feel "tight spots" in the steering, or hear an obnoxious creaking sound when you turn the wheel if they're really getting bad. As for replacing them, depending on your generation, they might be either pressed in or bolted on (I'm not too familiar with the setup of late-model Corollas). If you're driving a 7th-gen car ('93-97), then I can tell you exactly how to do it, as they're bolted on. I just finished up replacing both the CV axles and ball joints on my own car. As for KYB struts, I have not personally had any experience with them, but I do know they came on some Corollas as OEM equipment from the factory. If you're looking to return the ride and handling to factory specs, then I'm sure they would be a good choice. Just don't slap on some lowering springs with them, as they won't be matched to the shorter springs.
  4. Sounds an awful lot like a worn out CV joint in one of the front axles. Does the car make a clicking or thudding noise when you shift it into drive from park? If it is a CV joint, it would be easier to just replace the entire axle, because taking apart the joint itself is time-consuming. Plus when you're done, you're still rolling on an old axle with only one new component. I wouldn't expect the radiator to be causing this problem - there are no moving parts in the cooling system other than the water pump and thermostat, and if your coolant has been changed regularly then everything should be in working order.
  5. Awesome, I am searching for DIY guides for this right now... I also heard that Phoenix Tuning/Tweak'd Performance makes a kit for $550 that would work, but I don't see it listed on the website. Maybe I should email them to see if they still make them?
  6. Would it be terribly difficult to swap out the rear drum brakes on AE101 &102 Corollas with the rear disc brakes from an AE92 GT-S coupe? I have the opportunity to buy the parts for a good price if they are compatible. What parts would I need, other than the brake rotors, pads, and calipers? A handbrake cable? Thanks in advance!
  7. Alright guys, its been three days since I took apart the dash and center console, and I found some pretty interesting stuff. I figured since I was going to completely take apart the dash anyway, I might as well just buy some new bulbs to test out - if they flicker or don't work at all, then hey, I know what the problem is now. So I first installed the ashtray light, then the shift indicator light, and then finally the HVAC bulb a day later. The interesting things is.... All the bulbs work perfectly now! I did examine the bulbs I took out, and they all had the tell-tale darkening on the inside of the glass beside the filiament (looks a lot like smoke) that normally points to a blown bulb - and in this case, that's exactly what it was! I guess I was just a victim of coincidence that two of the three gave out around the same time, and that they both flickered... Maybe the electrical system just didn't like not having that HVAC bulb to supply power to? Anyways, the problem seems to be resolved, and I certainly appreciate the input. Thankfully, this wasn't a worst-case scenario. I would recommend changing all three at once if anyone else has this problem - you'll need lots of time and patience to get all the dash and console components out, not to mention the time you'll want to spend cleaning them off (218,000 miles and 14 years' worth of dust = SERIOUSLY NASTY). From what I could tell, though, these bulbs appeared to be the factory original ones. With any luck, I think it's safe to say they'll last quite a long time. On a side note, I never realized what kind of horrible things lurked beneath the trim pieces of my car... spilled drinks from other members of the family, strange hairs, loose change, man-eating dust bunnies, etc. Anyways, thanks for the input guys! Glad to have this problem solved and out of the way.
  8. The term "mags" when referring to rims originated because of lightweight alloy wheel construction in the 60's and 70's - the alloy blend often included the metal, magnesium, which in turn was abbreviated into the word "mag." This means true mag wheels would be ones that include magnesium. Just wanted to share the knowledge. Haha.
  9. Over the past few months, I have had some electrical gremlins plague my '96 DX. The first problem is the HVAC control lights behind the switches that control the air conditioning and heater functions. A few months ago, I noticed that the lights would sometimes not turn on with the headlights, as they are supposed to, and would come on randomly a while later, or sometimes not at all. Now they have ceased to operate completely. The second problem is the ashtray light - it suffered the same fate as the HVAC lights. It would flicker on and off when I opened the tray to get some change (I don't smoke, so it makes a perfect coin tray) and sometimes not come on. Now it too doesn't work. The reason I am posting this is because I pretty much have the center console pulled apart to change the lightbulb on the automatic gear shift indicator, which has been burned out for quite a while (I don't think this is related to the other lights). It would be immensely helpful to be able to fix all three of my problems at once. I am assuming the ashtray and HVAC lights must be a bad wire or a short because of the way they flickered before they went out, but I can't really be sure... Thanks in advance!
  10. Can 4A-GZE's put out that much power without modified internals? Cause that would sure be sweet... Also, I know those engines were primarily used in the RWD MR2. I'm assuming a transmission swap would be necessary in order to adapt it to a fwd platform?
  11. I hit 100 mph the other night on a long, empty road a little after midnight. Major fun. AND my Corolla had 216,000 miles at the time. The fastest I have ever been, however, was 165 mph on the back stretch of Virginia International Raceway in a race-prepped Corvette Z06 that belonged to a friend of mine. He's a driving instructor up at VIR (and has some serious driving skills). It was incredible.
  12. Ok, so here's the story: I was thinking the other day at work (a rare occurence) about how ridiculously fast the Dodge Neon and Caliber SRT-4's are for front wheel drive compact cars, along with the Mazdaspeed 3. Then I looked out the door and thought about how slow my own compact car is, a 96 automatic Corolla. Then it hit me: what if one day, when I had the time and money to spare, I took the turbo engine (or even the whole front end) out of one of those cars and made it work underneath the unassuming body shell of an old Corolla. The look on Mustang and Camaro driver's faces would be priceless... My main question is, regardless of time and money, how hard would it be do do such a thing? I know that this will likely never happen, but I can't help dreaming. Thanks in advance.
  13. Hallelujah! All my door handles are either cracked, have been repaired, or have been replaced. This seems to be a recurring problem with this generation of Corollas... I've seen a bunch of them with random door handles broken off, both on the outside and inside. A metal replacement would be a great thing to have. Anybody want to start fabricating some for mass production? I'll be the first customer!
  14. Dang! That's a whole lot of weight out of such a small car! Ok, so more specifically, if I removed the trunk carpeting, cardboard supports, relocated the battery and replaced it with a lightweight one, what would be the savings? I do need to keep the spare and jack though - I really wouldn't feel great about taking long trips without them. If I went a little farther by getting out the sound deadening and maybe removing the windshield washer fluid system (still debating that one), would it be worth the effort? And where would be the best place to get a battery kit like the one you mentioned?
  15. Yes, the 7th-gen Corollas came from the factory with a battery hold-down - it's composed of a metal bracket that goes across the top of the battery and a thin metal rod that runs down the side of the battery facing the firewall. The rod has a j-shaped curve in the end which is used to hook through a little hole that is in the chassis, very close to the battery tray. The bracket bolts across the battery and the rod attatches to the frame, holding the battery down. I actually have an extra one of these laying around that I picked up from a scrap yard for $5- I had the same problem with my battery being loose because the rod had been lost before I owned the car.