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dshadle1

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About dshadle1

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  1. Yea, I got a new cat converter for free under the federal emissions warranty a few years ago. Haven't had any codes pop on the new one yet but my days could be numbered!
  2. It's been about a year since I posted anything to this forum (started a demanding new job last August) but I wanted to share that I still have my 2001 Prizm. Just crossed 96,000 miles not too long ago, no significant body damage, change oil every 1,500-2,000 miles (which averages to about every 3 months), and burn 1 qt. of oil every 200-250 miles. I buy a 5-qt. jug to change and then two more over the course of an OCI. No real science behind which oil I use--mostly Valvoline High Mileage--though I did experiment a few years ago. Had a random misfire code pop repeatedly after letting the car sit for about a week around Christmas 2011 but after removing and re-inserting the spark plugs, thoroughly cleaning the MAF (cost $0), and running a tank or two of 91 octane, everything went back to normal. Now a little reflection on the economics of owning this car: My car has been burning oil for roughly 55k-60k miles now, and every summer I consider getting a new engine or paying someone to rebuild. Let's say it costs $2,000, which seems like a reasonable estimate if I shop around. As a conservatively large estimate, I drive 10,000 miles a year. If I burn a qt. every 200 miles (a conservatively low estimate), that's 50 quarts a year. Valvoline 5-qt. jugs are roughly $17-$19 at Wal-Mart. Not accounting for what it costs to change the oil, that means I'm spending $190/yr. extra to keep this oil burner running. All other things being equal, doesn't that mean I should expect a new/rebuilt engine to go another 10.5 years? There is a fat chance that I'll be in this car that long, so why would I do anything other than keep putting oil in it? Sure, maybe I should have replaced the engine five years ago (it was burning oil then, too) in order to take it easily to 2017 but I can't go back in time, can I? Since purchasing the car used in late 2003, I have paid just under $2,900 to maintain it, which includes all the oil changes, tire replacements, alignments, brakes, etc. that I have done over the years--mostly myself but also at shops when I felt incapable of doing the job or could not afford the downtime in case I screwed it up. That cost does not include all the wiper blades and other low-cost items that I get at Wal-Mart along with other home supplies. I am still on the factory struts, which seem poor but are not completely shot--this will certainly be a relatively expensive fix when the time comes. Given that this car is so cheap to maintain, however, I am thinking it would be a mistake to get a new(er) car. I look at some of the posted mileages on these engines and I notice that mine is ultra low for a 2001 model year. Yet how many times do you hear people say, "It's better to buy a new(er) car instead of sinking money into an older car"? Maybe this is true in some instances, but you really have to consider several factors. Even if I spend $3,000 a year over the next five years to maintain the car (remember, I have spent only $2,900 over 8.5 years), most newer cars I would think about purchasing cost at least $15,000 anyway, and that doesn't include the maintenance! Maybe the car I could buy tomorrow for $15k-$20k will last me another 10 years, but I think I'll wait to find out. Have a great summer, everyone, and enjoy your ride!
  3. Just to clarify, that picture is mine and the shiny stuff was just some gunk.
  4. Clay Bars

    I clayed our Highlander with the Mother's kit yesterday, and the clay bar easily made it through the full vehicle. I had leftover spray, too. Compared to the cost of having it done professionally, there is still value to these "expensive" products. Coke out of the machine is $10 a gallon.
  5. My previous oil change was Castrol GTX HM (also a good oil but it didn't mitigate oil consumption for me). Fuel economy and idle quality were the same for it and the NextGen MaxLife, but burnoff was slightly slower with NextGen. I'm thinking with a fresh change it might be even slower. Personally, I've heard and read a lot of people saying that they would NEVER touch the NextGen but it has been at least average for me--no complaints. Rotella T5 10w-30 blew through my engine faster than any oil I've tried. It's been nearly 7 years and 50,000+ miles since I started noticing massive oil consumption, by the way, which is a testament to the fact that these 1zz-fe engines are still good despite the piston design issues.
  6. This morning I found a 5-qt jug of Valvoline NextGen (recycled) High Mileage MaxLife at Wal-Mart for $17.50. There was a $5 coupon attached and Valvoline is running a $10 mail-in rebate on this product. I didn't read all the fine print but it seems like an unbeatable deal if you can score a jug with the coupon. I have mixed feelings about the NextGen. I've been using it for the past 2,000 miles and it is about average in terms of oil consumption on my oil burning Prizm. I'm giving it a second chance on my next change sometimes in the coming days.
  7. My favorite oil for my '01 Prizm is Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage. I have a big-time oil burner and this oil drastically reduced consumption (qt/400 to qt/800 miles). I switched to the NextGen variety of the same oil on my last change and consumption was not as good but I had some mitigating factors like long road trips.
  8. Mine was produced at NUMMI. One more data point at least.
  9. My '01 Prizm has the hook. Someone knew these engines would need to be taken out...
  10. The part # is different for the 99: 13540-22021 However I'm pretty sure it's all the same part. The way it works is that once they give a newer model a new part # for the SAME part, then all models with that engine "move up" to the new number as well. Why have 5 or 8 different numbers for the same piece of equipment, just because there are different model years out there? At least that's their logic.
  11. +1 on removing the tensioner to make sure it is engaged properly. That was really a lot of slack in the video!
  12. Original fluid is most likely DOT3--at least that's what my manual calls for.
  13. Search the web. This is a common problem for the 98-02 Corolla/Prizm.
  14. That's pretty much it. I believe they run off the car's power through the OBDII connection.


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