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autotech2612

Idle Quality - Low To High When During Cold Temperatures

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Didn't last night, but since I also don't work Sundays, I'll look around more tonight. Nothing else to do because AAP doesn't have the gasket in stock, but they ordered it in and it will be at the store tomorrow.

 

How does additional grounding improve idle stability with the A/C cycling, and you stated at windshield defrost setting. What about just the regular setting without defrost? (I know A/C automatically engages in defrost mode).

 

I think there has to be a ground point in either the right or left front fender.

 

New ECT should arrive Thursday.

Edited by autotech2612

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trap

It's a custom ground upgrade I made, instead of getting a ground upgrade kit... With improved and better distributed grounding, idle speed is just more solid and less affected by the A/C pump cycling. There is also a noticeable improvement in low end tractability, torque, and overall smoothness of operation.

 

Yeah, without further investigating, I believe you should have an engine to chassis ground somewhere.

 

By the way, I also modified the cam behind vent control knob to have A/C cycling only from slightly clockwise of 'floor/windshield' setting instead of slightly clockwise of 'floor' setting, so that the A/C is not always cyling and wasting gas during winter when I usually have is at 'floor/windshield' setting.

Edited by dom

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Glad you brought that up. At what temperature (ambient) does it have to be before the A/C compressor will no engage?

 

Also, how do I go about finding the ground point on the chasis?

Edited by autotech2612

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It is not temperature dependant. It is controlled by a switch that is activated by the cam behind vent control knob... It does not only defrost. It also defogs when humid as hell.

Edited by dom

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What about the other ground wire from battery terminal that is routed back on driver's side inner fender? Is it not bolted up to your driver's side inner fender? It would appear that it is your chassis ground which is ultimately combined with your other ground cables.

 

http://utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?ccId=126042523&ppId=370674038&ppInfo=(9708-++++)&ccode=&ppName=

 

Also, where do the orange wires you cleaned at engine head lead to?

Edited by dom

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The orange wires I cleaned lead to the coolant temperature sensor area and then branch out in the direction of the battery.

 

Looks like I will have to remove fuse/relay boxes to check on the fender area...

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Before I get started with the gasket removal, what do you suggest I use to scrap off the old material? I know aluminum is a soft metal, so I don't want to amake the mistake of gouging it. I do have razor blades, but is there a safer suggestion?

 

I still can't find a really good video of how to do it with this tubular intake. Is it just like the ninth-generation intakes?

 

Looking forward to this. It was back to idling high again tonight, and this time the temperature gauge took forever to get to the halfway point.

 

I assume I have to disconnect the upper radiator hose? Anything else I should be aware of?

 

33 degrees tonight.

 

Be ready for more photos after I can get a good video.

Edited by autotech2612

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No need to disconnect any coolant hose, even on the TB which can be cleaned and set aside on top of tranny with the two coolant hoses still attached... I would probably use a blunt flexible scraper. Whatever you use, have it at a very low angle, without digging into the aluminum. Carefully slide on it at nearly the same angle as the surface you're cleaning. Finish with a green scrubbing pad used for dishes, along with warm water and dish cleaning detergent, or similar, then wipe it off.

 

If you have time and before you even try scrapping it, let it soak submerged in scolding hot water with dish detergent for a while, then use only the green scrubbing pad. Rinse out under running water, then wipe dry.

 

After removing manifold and before cleaning the head seating surface, carefully wipe out intake port inlets and stick a clean rag or paper towel tightly in each opening to keep any debris out... Remove just before reinstalling clean manifold with new gasket.

Edited by dom

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The two connectors with orange wires that you cleaned on driver's side of engine head should be your only existing engine grounding points. You also have a ground to starter, which is spliced from the ground on top of tranny, as seen on upper left of diagram.

 

http://utoyot8.com/Picture.aspx?ccId=126042523&ppId=370674038&ppInfo=(9708-++++)&ccode=&ppName

Edited by dom

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Found that ground point on the body (last photo). In the photo, it seems near impossible to get it out of there without draining the coolant and moving the radiator hose out of the way. I've taken photos of bolts I assume I have to remove, include the two down at the throttle body? Gasket comes in tomorrow, not today as the woman at AAP stated.

 

001_zpsf366ce1f.jpg

 

 

002_zps09b256c3.jpg

 

 

003_zps3c79c2fd.jpg

 

 

004_zps086c8997.jpg

 

 

005_zpsed747e4c.jpg

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Yes, that's right about the bolts. You also need to disconnect vacuum and PCV hoses and sensors from the throttle body and unbolt it from manifold. You can also unbolt throttle cable holder from throttle body. End of throttle cable can be unhooked in wide open throttle position... It'll be more obvious as you go.

 

I see that body ground. You just need to remove the airbox to access it.

Edited by dom

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I figured it'd be more obvious. Tomorrow is the big day.

 

So, do you recommend I just drain the coolant and pull that upper coolant hose back to make it easier?

 

Update on another ECT sensor (same brand installed today): Now the needle on the gauge moves as it should -- quicker -- and in 42-degree weather.

 

However, with this sensor, the needle is a little above the halfway point.

 

Just shows each sensor usually yields either a slightly different result or a major difference.

 

Idle issue is still rather high when starting out (back up 2000 RPM).

 

Both sensors were installed after the ground point wires on the engine were cleaned using the wire brush.

 

Yes, I will have to take the air box off. Pretty easy.

 

Really looking forward to the Toyota sensor. I'd be surprised if nothing changes.

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I would not bother with the coolant hose or with any coolant draining... I see now that it's hard to look behind 8th gen manifold flange to witness any signs of leaking.

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