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autotech2612

Tackling Small Rust Areas

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A bodyshop should be able to set you up. They can pull up the paint codes from the vehicle plate and mix it up right there.

 

To get the rust off - might need a combination of wire wheel and/or sandpaper. Since it looks like surface rust, should be able to get at it with really coarse sandpaper.

 

Sandpaper - you'll have to experiment with different grit to see what works for you. Trying take this by hand or machine? If by hand - you'll have to use a pretty coarse grit - 40-60 grit will eat that rust up pretty quickly, then decrease grit size accordingly. If by machine - 60-80 grit grinding wheel will grind that right off in less than a minute, then finish off by hand. Probably working up to 220-320 grit before priming. The primer will fill in the voids and scratches of that grit level of paint pretty easily, especially the build up type-primers.

Depending on the expected finish you want - matching the existing paint finish, will determine what grit you need. On my 2002 - close to the bottom of the doors - there is a fair amount of orange peel. I can probably get away with a 320 grit, little glazing putty to raise that up, couple coats of primer, then base coat, then clear over. If the paint is thinner or if the finish is very good on the door - then you might have to step up to fine grades to hide the scratch marks.

 

Just note that you'll have to extend the sanding slightly beyond the rust spot to be able to blend the paint into the door panel. White, being a single stage paint (I don't think Toyota covered these with a clear coat on some models) - might get away with just sanding the rust down and reshooting the paint, with little to no blending. If it looks "off" - you can always sand it down and start again.

 

On some cars (metallic paints or ones that need a heavier clear coat for that "wet" look - I've gone to the 2000+ grits and wet sand - talking something about as abrasive as a diaper. Then wet sanding between coats. Don't think you'll need to go to that extreme on this repair job.

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trap

Correct. Primer will help seal the bare metal and provide an adhesion point for the top coat.

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Looks like because of my delay, I won't be able to address the rust issue until spring. I need the surface to be completely dry and clean. In the interim, I was on the O'Reilly page today and found these products as well. Any thoughts on SEM and Evapo-rust?

 

I have been going to the car wash once a week to get an underbody wash, and per Fish's recommendation, I did put grease (I used wheel bearing grease) on two rust areas for now.

 

Other than that, this Corolla is on the verge of 226,000 and doing very well.

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I've heard of both but have not used them - so I can't comment on how they will work. Grease will keep the water away from that area for a decent amount of time - you should be OK to ride this out until you get to decent weather. A poor paint job can be worse than just protecting the area until you get to it correctly. Sounds like you're definitely handling this the right way.

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