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Guest daddydise

Brand New Battery But It Died Again

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Then my system is working properly. We had a pre-Indian Summer day yesterday. Outside temp. registered 95 when I started the car and then went down to 92-91. I'd say it was blowing out at those temperatures in the 60s.

 

Humidity yesterday was 77%.

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trap

Additionally, what also made a small boost in fuel economy was replacing the PCV (from the dealership), air filter, and switching to the factory recommended Denso Iridium plugs in the car two days after I bought it.

 

The alignment was overwhelmingly out, and fuel economy improved a bit upon getting toe and camber in the green zones.

 

I did notice the tire shop keeps inflating the tires to 35psi, when the door placard indicates 30psi cold.

 

Battery will be installed tomorrow; I'll let you know how I use the wood to secure it with the hold-down. I will replace the hold-down in the future and it's badly rusted.

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AUTOTECH

I just changed my PCV valve factory one also. At 95,000 I am going to change plugs. I wanted Denso like you got but Autozone only had NGK. Did not feel like looking around for the denso. NGK is still factory plugs. My only mistake is I should have got the IFR5T11 rated for 120,000.

When They looked it up at Autozone like they always do they said the ones for my car were iridium ix that's fine I can run these but only last between 30k-60k.

Now back to your high mileage per gallon. It's good to know what helped increase your mileage a little bit.

Thanks

Frank

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Frank,

 

Advance Auto Parts (usually sells more brands than Auto Zone, including Beck/Arnley and Denso) is where I purchased the Denso Iridium. Your 2005 model uses the same as my 2002 model:

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_sk16r11-iridium-long-life-spark-plug-denso_20650339-p?navigationPath=L1*14923%7CL2*15034%7CL3*16071

 

Of course, you can always use the Denso Platinum (previous owner had these installed) and they're cheaper: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_pk16tt-platinum-tt-spark-plug-denso_11010037-p?navigationPath=L1*14923%7CL2*15034%7CL3*16071

 

On the block area by the plugs, when you remove the top plastic engine cover, there is a factory label stating to use only Denso Iridium SK16R11. However, it's not required, of course. I just wanted the Iridium for better fuel economy, slight boost in performance, and long life. You can get over 100,000 miles out of the Iridium. Platinums only last 30-40K, so to me it made sense to pay $9 each for the Iridiums.

 

 

There are a variety of coupon codes to choose from: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

 

I always choose to buy online, pick-up in store. You can enter a coupon code and get the discount applied. They are good at having your order fulfilled in an hour. And, you spend enough, you can also get free shipping.

 

Down the road, when I replace the oxygen sensor (US or DS), I'll buy the OEM Denso from Advance.

 

I've never been a fan of Auto Zone, home of Duralast and ValuCrap.

Edited by autotech2612

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AUTOTECH

I know the denso sk16r11 are factory recommended so is the NGK IFR5T11. Both are listed in my owners manual.

And I did get Iridium plug. They are NGK IRIDIUM IX fine tip plugs. That's why they are rate for 30k-60k because of fine tip.

I did not know advanced auto sold denso thanks. Next time I will get the 120,000 mile plugs you got.

I want to take plastic engine cover off and see this label you are talking about. I was not looking for it but when I had cover off to change PCV valve did not see label on my 05 corolla

Frank

Edited by Bull6791

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It's on the left-hand side.

 

I don't have a hard-copy of the manual, so I have to access it free via Toyota's website. I just went with what I read on that label.

 

For me, it made sense to go with the Denso Iridium instead of replacing every 30-40K.

 

However, it's still a good idea to pull them out at around that mileage to look at the tips. Good way to know the condition of your engine. Amazingly, the Densos I took out had the healthy light brown.

Edited by autotech2612

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Got the battery in, solved the hold-down problem. While I was down there, I removed the recovery tank, drained present coolant into a bowl, and flushed out the tank. Hardly any build-up in the bottom. When I change it out, I'll just siphon out what's in there instead of taking the battery out again. I'll provide photos later.

 

Part of the starting problem on the old battery (from 2004) was massive amounts of that white, crusty residue all over the connectors. So bad on the positive terminal, that I had to use my lug-nut tool from the trunk to get the connector to budge off the terminal by hitting it. (I changed it in the parking lot at AAP)

Edited by autotech2612

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AUTOTECH

Did you ever change your power steering fluid. If so did you siphon out reservoir and then fill it up with new fluid or you did a complete flush. I was just curious because I am going to change mine shortly

Frank

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005_zps5196104f.jpg

 

 

004_zpsecdd23a7.jpg

 

 

 

Used plastic piece included with battery as hold-down (states on that piece it is meant for that purpose). Holds down firm; battery doesn't move.

 

 

Will have to replace battery hold-down assembly, as it is rusted and bending to the point of breaking apart in two areas. Hopefully can find one at http://www.lkqselfserve.com in the near future before snow arrives.

 

 

 

 

Also, this plastic intake pipe to filter housing is not flush. I feel a screw-like thing with a rubber grommet in-between underneath and it seems weak (I know, poor description). Have you had a problem with this, Fish? (First photo is as-is, second photo is me making it flush):

 

 

 

001_zps99e24173.jpg

 

 

 

002_zpsc5045028.jpg

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AUTOTECH

Did you ever change your power steering fluid. If so did you siphon out reservoir and then fill it up with new fluid or you did a complete flush. I was just curious because I am going to change mine shortly

Frank

 

Three weeks ago. Used siphon. Still pink, but will replace more in 2,000 miles.

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AUTOTECH

Now when you siphon old power steering fluid out and then put in new. How many times should I do it. One and done or a few times to get more of the old fluid out.

Also what circulates the fluid thought the system the new fluid that is driving or moving steering wheel from lock to lock or both.

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Used plastic piece included with battery as hold-down (states on that piece it is meant for that purpose). Holds down firm; battery doesn't move.

Will have to replace battery hold-down assembly, as it is rusted and bending to the point of breaking apart in two areas. Hopefully can find one at http://www.lkqselfserve.com in the near future before snow arrives.

 

 

Also, this plastic intake pipe to filter housing is not flush. I feel a screw-like thing with a rubber grommet in-between underneath and it seems weak (I know, poor description). Have you had a problem with this, Fish? (First photo is as-is, second photo is me making it flush):

 

Not bad - looks like it is really secure. Last time I looked at the 26R battery - they didn't come with that t-shaped spacer, just a grid like spacer that fit on the bottom of the battery.

 

Yeah, my intake is the same way. I know that some people just remove the bottom piping and replace that with some flex hose or get some mandrel bent aluminum piping of the same diameter and fashion a DIY CAI. Component movement will cause that separation - I take a peek from time to time, but don't always have the time to try and butt the two piece back together. If it gets too loose, won't hurt the engine - as it is still filtering the air, but will cause the intake charge ambient air temps to be higher - act like a short ram intake with the intake side under the hood, close to the exhaust manifold.

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So, this has no affect on the idle speed upon start-up on a 80-degree day? When I start the car on a hot day, idle will be up at 1000 or 1100 RPM for about four minutes. When it was 49 degrees last night, idle speed was at 1800 for a few minutes. I know cars idle up to warm up the engine faster, but it seems to be excessive at times. Or, after a ten minute drive, when I stop, the engine is idling at roughly 975 RPM and then in a few seconds, drops to normal: 800 RPM.

 

Do you experience the same behavior in your 2002?

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