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Transmission Oil For '99 5 Speed

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Assuming you pulled the negative battery terminal to reset the ECM? Takes a little time before the ECM relearns some parameters.

 

Injectors don't seem to be issue - from what you've done so far. Could be a leak in the fuel rail? Could be injector seat on the head is knicked? Bad o-rings? Hard to say at this point. Everything seems to point at a vacuum leak so far - but those can be tough to pinpoint.

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I'm suspending the focus on injectors. Going to Harbor Freight tomorrow to get that tamper-proof allen-type gadget for five bucks.

 

Another note: Since I replaced three out of four injectors, check engine light has not come back on. Recall, the two codes I had were EVAP related.

 

Not sure why CEL would not re-illuminate. . .

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You can still have an active EVAP DTC and not have the CEL illuminated. After a certain number of drive cycles - the light will turn itself off. Also, the colder weather might be helping - I found my EVAP issues seem to get better the cooler the weather gets.

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It hasn't been that cold compared to two weeks ago when highs were in the mid-twenties and lows at 14-18. I've had several drive cycles now, but the CEL didn't go out until after this injection "work". I did de-pressurize the system, including removing the gas cap for ten minutes on three occasions (I had to re-visit after leaks).

 

I would like to scan for codes at this point to see if those EVAC DTC codes are still there.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-star-tamper-proof-key-set-97471.html is on the list tomorrow afternoon. Will call ahead just to verify it's in-stock.

Edited by autotech2612

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Okay, here is the tamper-proof tool. Four on right, three on left.

 

I don't want to strip out these screws/bolts, so which one fits for the IAC?

 

Left-side: From top to bottom, 1,2,3. Right-side: From top to bottom, 1,2,3,4

 

 

 

019_zpsd90bb67d.jpg

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Depending on how much gunk/surface corrosion there is on the IAC screws - might just have to try and find the closest one to fit. Hit it with some penetrating fluid first to help break those bolts free - PB Blaster or Kroil or similar.

 

Mine were pretty small - but I don't remember which bit size I used before. I just had a set of those funny bits, and I just tried them one at a time until I found one that bit it well.

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I'll do it tomorrow and provide an update. Really cold tonight -- 10 degrees so far at 9:30 p.m.

 

Car has been idling high today when I shut it off. Upon shut-off, it's at 1100 RPM. I hate shutting the car off when RPMs are that high, but even after waiting a couple minutes, it doesn't go down. Then on some surprising nights, it will go down to 800 like it should.

 

Another thing I thought of: Do you think the ECT sensor could be at fault?

 

It was 12 degrees out yesterday afternoon and I got on the highway after 1/3 of a mile of 25 MPH city-type driving. Did not drive the car until midnight that day, so car was completely cold.

 

On the highway, going 30-40 (rush hour in Grand Rapids on slick roads) the temperature gauge was barely at half-way mark. When I finally got three miles down the highway, it was just about at the halfway mark, but when I took my exit to get to downtown, and put transmission into neutral severaltimes to coast -- stopping multiple times in congested city traffic -- the temperature gauge was not at the hallway mark anymore, but 1/3 or 1/4 wayabove the "C" mark. Very warm air was still flowing through the vents, though.

 

My friend was driving behind me the same time with his 2002 Honda Accord V6 and he said his vehicle features the same behavior. However, I don't recall this happening in my previous car.

Edited by autotech2612

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Dom: I used the T15 on those two little 5-star "bolts" and that seems like the correct fit. But, it seems like I am rounding them out more inside. The T20 doesn't seem to fit. Attached is a photo of what I'm getting at (I have sprayed penetrating oil). . .

 

 

002_zps567044af.jpg

Edited by autotech2612

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A faulty ECT is a possible culprit with high idle issues. The behavior you are describing sure sounds like a bad ECT or possibly bad thermostat. ECT and thermostats generally don't fail very often, but they can slowly die, especially the ECT and potentially give the ECM bad readings. Usually the ECM is smart enough to figure this out and use other sensors to set the idle, but only in cases where the sensor is really off. If it is in that threshold area - could give you a bit of a headache.

 

It's a possibility that there is an issue with the gauge or wiring - but given the fairly low cost of a replacement ECT, so that might be worth a shot to replace and see if that was your issue. Usually, your shifting (if automatic) will be off if the ECT is reading badly. Car will try to stay in lower gears and refuse to upshift to help speed up the warmup process.

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Just ordered the ECT sensor, it's Standard Motor Products TX85T. Should arrive no later than Tuesday.

 

You mentioned the thermostat. What is factory temperature on our thermostats? 180 degrees?

 

What brands do you recommend? Regular Stant?

Edited by autotech2612

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Correct - 180 degree F is the OEM recommended t-stat temp. Myself, personally, I'd go with an OEM one over Stant aftermarket.

 

Right now Stant and MOOG parts are on my $hit list right now - I can order 10 units, all the same part numbers, and the quality varies immensely from box to box.

 

Stant - on the Corolla - got a new gas cap, as the Stant gas cap cost the same as just the gasket for the OEM one (cost less than $5 on RockAuto). Looking at it now - it is the cheapest, flimsiest piece of plastic I've ever seen. Worst part - after the first fill up with the new gap - the plastic "handle" on the outside cracked off, leaving just a plastic nipple stuck on the fill tube. Haven't touched the car yet - driving the Matrix now, too much other stuff going on to deal with it, but you can believe that I'm not a happy camper about it.

 

Just replaced the stabilizer links on our 1996 Camry, as the originals (kid you not - original ones were still there, almost 400K miles ago, NE Ohio weather/salt - but had to replace a coil spring, it snapped due to age and corrosion - links were so corroded, just cut them off).

Every single MOOG part I bought - some from different stores were terrible in quality. Boots didn't fit right, machining was terrible, lots of metal flash on the new parts, reman looks like they were pulled from a salvage yard. Finally broke down - picked up some dealership ones ($108 each retail !!) up from $35 each for the MOOG ones. But completely night and day difference - it was pretty shocking. Not sure if this was an issue due to the age of the car - 17 years old. But I spent a good two days goofing around trying to find good aftermarket ones for the Camry.

 

Now on our Dodge Dakota truck - completely different story - actually aftermarket parts are "better" than OEM. Good example were brake calipers - OEM looks like they were reject castings from the plant, not clean, bad casting, and were just the plain calipers - had to reuse some parts from the existing caliper. Went to NAPA - got loaded calipers that were pristine in comparison and ready to install at 1/2 the price of OEM.

Edited by fishexpo101

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I'm a guy who doesn't like to wait, so I called Advance Auto Parts tonight and ordered the Beck/Arnley to be picked up tomorrow:

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_temperature-sensor-beck-arnley_18025861-p?searchTerm=coolant+temperature+sensor

 

Got 30-percent off.

 

Tonight at the car wash, it was 23 degrees out (about 10 degrees warmer than it was last night) and the gauge was acting the same way it was last night (lower speeds on the highway, lower temperatures). After washing the car and getting back on the highway, the temperature gauge was in the mid-zone, heat was hotter, and at the stoplight at the exit before my house, the car idled at 800. Got home, pulled in the garage, and car idled 800.

 

Thinking the ECT sensor may be at fault for the idle issues, but anxious to find out for sure tomorrow.

 

With 224,500 on the odometer, I'm not surprised it is bad. On my last Geo Metro, the ECT sensor failed at 130,000. Also replaced the thermostat on that one with a Beck/Arnley.

 

After replacing the ECT sensor tomorrow, if the gauge is back to the normal zone after warming up and I have plenty of heat, I won't replace the thermostat.

 

I've used Stant once before (thermostat in a Mazda 626) and it wasn't a correct part (didn't have the jiggle valve) and my air was lukewarm. Had to upgrade to a Beck/Arnley with the jiggle valve (twice the price) and it worked as designed for that car. Never used a gas cap from Stant, but have only replaced one in my life -- and got a Toyota one from the yard off a later model Camry.

 

Speaking of Camry, you have any photos of it? I'm surprised to hear of bad experiences with MOOG, since I see them listed at a higher price on websites (including Rock Auto). I assumed MOOG specializes in just suspension parts and I thought quality would be at a higher bar. I wonder why there can be so many variations in quality as you described. What is the reason for it? Poor quality control?

 

I have also noticed that aftermarket on GM/Chrysler/Ford vehicles seem to do well, but as I stated to friends regarding Toyota, they seem more finicky than the Big Three (well, if you can even include GM in that category). Aftermarket parts on these cars are usually not a precise fit or they don't produce intended results like Denso.

 

CEL still hasn't come back on.

 

I do, on cold days, get some valve tappet noise for about two to three minutes when driving slowly to the end of the street, but it always goes away. Ever experienced it?

Edited by autotech2612

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A faulty ECT is a possible culprit with high idle issues. The behavior you are describing sure sounds like a bad ECT or possibly bad thermostat. ECT and thermostats generally don't fail very often, but they can slowly die, especially the ECT and potentially give the ECM bad readings. Usually the ECM is smart enough to figure this out and use other sensors to set the idle, but only in cases where the sensor is really off. If it is in that threshold area - could give you a bit of a headache.

 

It's a possibility that there is an issue with the gauge or wiring - but given the fairly low cost of a replacement ECT, so that might be worth a shot to replace and see if that was your issue. Usually, your shifting (if automatic) will be off if the ECT is reading badly. Car will try to stay in lower gears and refuse to upshift to help speed up the warmup process.

 

 

You sure are correct about the transmission issue. Not my car, but in my friend's Accord (and his Grand Prix before that), the torque converter in the transmission wouldn't engage until the ECM sent the signal that the car was sufficiently warmed up.

Edited by autotech2612

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I replaced the ECT sensor this afternoon and the gauge moves to the middle range faster and idle speed has decreased. Still, it will idle at 1,000 RPM in 20-degree temperatures after a ten-minute highway drive. Heat should be a little bit hotter, but I see I have to remove the alternator to access the thermostat, since it's at the lower, not upper radiator hose (why?).

 

I'd like to order this OEM tomorrow (good deal?):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-90916A3003-GENUINE-OEM-FACTORY-ORIGINAL-THERMOSTAT-/141107731011?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2002%7CModel%3ACorolla&hash=item20daad1a43&vxp=mtr

 

I did watch this clip:

 

Edited by autotech2612

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