Jump to content

Registered users (members) don’t see this ad!

Sign in to follow this  
Cain

Transmission Oil For '99 5 Speed

Recommended Posts

I think it is 2 quarts on the nose, though I don't remember for sure off the top of my head.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Contributors don’t see ads — including in-image ads!

A year later and the Redline is going well. It was pretty thick on really cold (-40 Celsius) days in the winter getting it out of the garage, but once it warms up for 10 mins or so it's fine. And yes, it's 2 quarts.

Edited by Cain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to hear - thanks for the feedback! Redline is still one of my favorite fluids to run, hasn't let me down in even extreme conditions.

 

Wow, -40C, that's pretty darn cold. Pretty much have to go synthetic at that point - just to have it not feel like shifting through molasses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fish, I'm changing my fluid out tomorrow and using Synchromesh, but then again, I also have that unusual brake fluid reservoir also for the transmission. Do I have to worry about that right now, or just wait until I replace the clutch later this year (I think you stated that would be fine). Michigan winters have been colder that usual the last three years, so I'd like to stick with synthetic. I have a coupon code for the Synchromesh at Advace Auto Parts (order online, pick-up in store) which will give me a good discount. At 221,000 miles, and as the second owner, I don't know if the previous owner changed the gear oil.

 

At 8.99 per quart, I ended up paying $12.59 for two quarts with 30-percent off coupon code RMN30 online. Picking it up tomorrow.

Edited by autotech2612

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You mean Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid-(32-oz-)-pennzoil_7070062-p?searchTerm=synchromesh

 

It is NOT a 75W-90 manual transaxle fluid and is NOT formulated for use in your Corolla. Its viscosity is just a bit higher than ATF... Mobil 1 LS 75W90 ($10.99/quart) would be your best option from Advance Auto Parts.

 

http://www.pennzoil.com/other-car-products/transmission-fluids-and-gear-oil/manual-transmission-fluid/

 

Specs and applications: http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDkQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pennzoil.ca%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F02%2FSynchromesh-Manual-Trans-Fluid.pdf&ei=92kgUvaGPMHK2gWb0IH4Cg&usg=AFQjCNGGLhPN5Yfk21KhZkBBwST9fB2Esg&sig2=IJ84myNidDUIasHXZSTVtw

 

 

Some 75W-90 gear lubes are not formulated for manual transmissions/transaxles and are of a higher viscosity... Motul's Gear 300 75W90 GL-5 (ester based) has the highest viscosity index (222), and the lowest viscosity at 40°C (104°F). Amsoil's excellent MTG which I use, then Redline MT-90 are close behind.


-Synthetic Gear Lubes- Viscosity @ 100°C/212°F (cSt), Viscosity @ 40°C/104°F (cSt):

 

*Amsoil MTG Manual Tranny Gear Lube 75W90 GL-4: 14.7, 84.5 (Pour Point -44°C) http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/mtg.htm

Amsoil FGR Long Life 75W90 GL-4: 15.9, 122.6 (Pour Point -51°C)

Amsoil SVG Severe Gear 75W90 GL-5: 16.7, 109.1 (Pour Point -50°C)

Castrol SynGear 75W90 GL-5: 15.4, 117 (Pour Point -48°C)

*ENEOS (Nippon) Premium Multi Gear 75W90 GL-5: 14.7, 79.9 (Pour Point -42°C)

*Elf TransElf FE 75W90 GL-5: 15, 101 (Pour Point -51°C)

Lucas Synthetic 75W90 GL-5: 18.4, 142 (Pour Point -39°C)

*Maxima ProGear 75W90 GL-5: 15.4, 95.1 (Pour Point <-60°C) http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=62&products_id=386

*Mobil 1 LS 75W90 GL-5: 14.6, 103 (Pour Point -39°C)

*Motul Gear 300 75W90 GL-5: 15.2, 72.6 (Pour Point -60°C)

Motul MotylGear 75W90 GL-5: 16.7, 107.8 (Pour Point -45°C)

Pennzoil 75W90 GL-4: 15.3, 108 (Pour Point -42°C)

Pennzoil 75W90 GL-5: 15.7, 110 (Pour Point -51°C)

*Redline MT-90 75W90 Manual Tranny Gear Lube GL-4: 15.6, 90 (Pour Point -45°C)

Redline NS 75W90 GL-5: 15.6, 95 (Pour Point -45°C)

Royal Purple Max-Gear 75W90 GL-5: 19.1, 132.3 (Pour Point -48°C)

Valvoline High Performance Gear Oil 75W90 GL-5: 15.47, 99 (Pour Point -45°C)

Edited by dom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cancelled my "buy online, pick-up in store" order and got a refund for the Pennzoil Synchromesh. I was able to loosen the fill and drain plugs today as I want to do this today. Location of fill plug is a pain.

 

Placing online order for Mobil 1 LS 75W90 right now. With 30-percent discount code, I only paid $16 with tax for two quarts.

 

What does "pour point" mean? If the pour point is -39 C, is that good in Michigan winters?

 

I want to make sure I have the correct application, as I plan on keeping this car for a long time, and it already has 221,000 miles on a 2002.

 

Where do you buy Redline other than online? I can only find it online (same with Amsoil).

 

I'll provide shifting performance results later this evening. Looking forward to this, as I do not know when or if the gear oil in this car has ever been changed.

 

I will flush/fill the brake fluid for the clutch tomorrow.

Edited by autotech2612

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, I changed out the gear oil using the Mobil that "4th Gear" recommended. Again, it's a pain to get to the filler plug. Instead of using a 23mm socket, I used a standard socket since I don't have a 23mm. As a precaution, I wrapped some white pipe thread on both the drain and filler plugs prior to re-installing. After driving, I notice a slight difference. Shifting is slightly "silkier" now. Here is a photo of the old oil:

 

 

002_zps79a165c9.jpg

 

 

Tomorrow, I want to flush the DOT 3 brake fluid reservoir used for the hydraulic clutch on the Corolla. The bleeder screw is finally loosened up a bit (and also a pain to get to for the purpose of bleeding). So, just like bleeding brakes, I have an assistant pump the clutch pedal and then hold it down while I loosen the bleeder screw and let the old flow into a clear container? (Then tighten screw and have assistant pump again?)

Edited by autotech2612

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"4th Gear" is my forum member status, as you are in "1st Gear".

 

I get all my Amsoil products from http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil-online-store.htm with the promo code for great discounts, especially in bulk.

 

You shouldn't have to pump the clutch pedal, as it will flush by gravity... It can get a bit tricky if you try pumping it.

Edited by dom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you please detail the process you use to correctly change and re-fill it?

 

Also, does the old gear oil look really dirty to you?

Edited by autotech2612

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your drained gear oil looks pretty decent. How many miles was on it?

 

I let the clutch release cylinder take up clean brake fluid once in a while by just cracking it open for a bit once in a while... The last time I replaced all my brake and clutch fluid, I had to pump the clutch pedal slowly in and out a few times with the bleeder fitting cracked open a bit to pump fluid back into it. It's possible to empty the clutch release cylinder, and then have to pump fluid back into it from the clutch master cylinder. You operate the master cylinder with the clutch pedal to push fluid down to release cylinder which applies pressure to your clutch release fork. You can upgrade to DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, but NOT DOT 5 which is silicone based.

 

Pour point is the coldest temperature at which it will pour out of the open bottle turned upside down... Viscosity spec at 40C (104F) is also lower in actual tranny lube, important for shifting ease in winter or when tranny is not yet up to normal operating temp, even if they're all a 75W-90 grade.

Edited by dom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have no idea how many miles are on the used gear oil. I am the second owner, but the previous owner was extremely meticulous about maintenance. Looking at the engine bay, exterior, interior and underneath the car, it's hard to believe the car has 222K. Still have the original clutch, I do know that. Even the A/C blows cold.

 

I'm a tad confused on the clutch fluid (brake fluid) procedure. I don't want any air to enter; I should be concerned about that, correct? I don't have to involve the brake at all, right? By the way, I did flush my brake fluid two months ago.

 

My previous car (5-speed) had Valvoline 80 weight gear oil (cheap) and it was like shifting through molasses on cold mornings. It wasn't synthetic.

 

Sounds like you suggested a good gear oil for me. Thanks for saving me. I wasn't even going to check any message responses before going to pick-up the Pennzoil, just happened to do it for the heck of it.

Edited by autotech2612

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brakes are independant. Only the fluid reservoir is shared with hydraulic clutch.

 

Just take your time and pump clutch pedal slowly in and slowly out, with bleed fitting opened just enough to let fluid out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll be buying brake fluid tomorrow and provide results. After that, I've flushed and filled power steering, brakes, gear oil since getting the car at 212,000. Only thing left after tomorrow is engine coolant, and I've heard there's no way around Toyota Pink or Red.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You know about the cylinder block's water drain petcock, on the back below driver's side cylinder exhaust? It takes a 10mm socket, and you can put a hose on the spigot.

 

I put in Amsoil's polypropylene glycol 7 year coolant the first time.

 

http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/ant.htm

 

Now i'll use Peak Long Life coolant, often on special at Canadian Tire.

 

http://www.peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/long-life/

 

It's fine as long as you don't mix different coolant types. Zerex Asian coolant is also a great choice.

 

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/105

 

In Canada, there is also Asian 10 year coolant available, made by Recochem.

 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/CoolingHeating/AntifreezeCoolants/PRDOVR~0293070P/MotoMaster+Asian+Concentrate+Coolant,+3.78+L.jsp?locale=en

 

Drain front plastic expansion tank (reservoir) by removing hose at bottom, drain coolant at radiator and block drain, flush with some distilled water, close drain block, add more distilled water until some come out of radiator, close rad drain, fill with distilled water, run engine for a couple minutes, then drain block and rad and flush with abit of distilled water again. Close drains, add a gallon of concentrated (not mixed 50/50) coolant, then top off with distiiled water.

Edited by dom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bought the brake fluid (stuck with Lucas DOT 3) and had my friend pump the clutch, but he did it too fast at first. Reservoir went dry. I filled it, and then got no resistance whatsoever, several times, even with bleeder closed. Fluid wouldn't go down either. Frustrated, I didn't know what to do. But, then I started playing with the clutch cable thing that's in a boot next to the bleeder screw, and started pushing it in and out, just forcing it. That did the trick for some reason.

 

So, I had my friend pump the clutch very slowly and it worked. All bad fluid is out. It was very dark. Is that very harmful to keep dirty fluid in it?

 

I was going to let gravity do its work by just loosening the bleeder screw, but nothing came out. That's when I had my friend start pumping. It started gushing out at that point.

 

At the end, during the last pumps, while he was doing it slow, I would just randomly open the bleeder screw a little to let fluid out, then tighten it.

 

Took it for a test drive. Resistance is back to where it should be.

 

Now, on to the coolant. I will respond to your previous post on coolant this evening. If you can, respond to this post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

(Only shown to guests, not registered members.)


×
×
  • Create New...