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nagykaldi

Slight Engine Knock/rattle At High Speeds And Uphill

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Yeah, really doesn't sound like a carbon buildup - especially from what you already done so far. I was just hoping for a simple problem, vs something protentially gumming up the VVT-i actuator/valve. Don't worry about the "torture" runs - won't hurt any of these engines one bit - I've seen demonstration tests of Toyota engines running on a test stand 24/7 jumping from idle to redline over a one week period - exhaust header was cherry red, engine teardown shown little to no wear.

 

Most shops have big drums of oil that they use for oil changes, some places use retail packaged quart containers - depends on the shop. The shop closest to me uses whatever they can get their hands one - sometimes its Kedall, or Pennsoil, or Mobil, or some "mystery" brand. Shops doesn't always know in some cases. For potential sludge issues, I'd suggest either running a sythetic motor oil in there (slowly cleans the engine), or some popular additives like Lucas, Rislone, MMO, and some others. Gunk engine flush works incredibly fast - but I would worry that loosening that potential sludge or deposits all at once would be more dangerous than the sludge/deposits themselves. Some have used AutoRX with good results - though I haven't tried it myself, so I can't really comment on it.

 

I also have some pics of the engine when the valvecover is off - there are some shots of the VVT-i actuator assembly in there. Don't mind the dirty looking engine - opened it up after a 14K run on snythetic oil - just wanted to see what it looked like and check clearances on the vlaves - before I changed it. Link to my photobucket site in my sig.

 

Off topic, but where did you see the demonstration tests? And do you work for Toyota? I appreciate your posts.

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Nope - don't work for Toyota. Actually saw a demo at a conference for automotive tech several years ago - there were several commercial and print ads that covered similar tests. I think it was around the LS400 first come here to the states. Then more recently at a SEMA demo where they had a blown 1UZ-FE dynoing at a bit more than 850-900 WHP. They ran that on an engine dyno for 3 or 4 hours straight at redline - engine was fine afterwards.

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Nope - don't work for Toyota. Actually saw a demo at a conference for automotive tech several years ago - there were several commercial and print ads that covered similar tests. I think it was around the LS400 first come here to the states. Then more recently at a SEMA demo where they had a blown 1UZ-FE dynoing at a bit more than 850-900 WHP. They ran that on an engine dyno for 3 or 4 hours straight at redline - engine was fine afterwards.

not to nitpick, ok to nitpick

 

3-4 hours at redline with no load or 3-4 hours at redline under full load/full boost? ;)

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Good question - the only load they had on it was the dyno itself was supplying. Assuming that there had to be some significant load, if not the turbos wouldn't have been boosting at all or very little (couple of PSI) - then that wouldn't have been much of a demo. As I remember, they were boosting at the time - though I didn't see all the details (what they were boosting, what the numbers were). Just the initial pull to verify the power claims, then one after the test to see where the engine was.

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Thanks for the exhaustive explanation fishexpo! I usually take it to a small shop down the street for oil change, I assume they put the regular 5W in these cars. Royal Purple is pretty expensive! I don't think it is carbon buildup, I just SeaFoamed the car and regularly run cleaners through it. It seems OK when I look down the spark plug holes. With the VVT solenoid unplugged, the engine completely stopped rattling, and it also runs very nice and smooth at any RPM and load - not really what excessive buildup sounds like.

 

My theory is that there might be some sludge and dirt in those solenoid valve passages and they interfer with proper valve operation. This may result in bad valve timing. Again, the sound is not really like engine pinging. It is much more a rattle, like when a chain is turned and it hits the side of a metal plate. Sort of what valves could do, I guess. In any case, I will try to clean the solenoid valves first and report back. I will also try to bring myself to torture my car according to the method you suggested. Although again, you would expect a similar effect from a good SeaFoam treatment which I did.

Hi, I'm new to this forum. I'm experiencing the exact same issue in car. I went through entire thread. I was really good, problem and solutions are explaining very well.

But after this post the thread has moved off track. Could you please let me know what happens after cleaning the solenoid? Was it solved the issue?

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If I may chime in, the solenoid is only 40-50 bucks. Just replace it, IMO it would be easier than cleaning it and "trying" to see if it's the problem, that way you know its new and not causing issues.

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Hi,

Has anyone able to sort out this issue. I spent the whole day in the garage trying out several steps. Non solve the issue. :(

 

Rattle sound comes around 1600-1800 rpm level.

 

1. Clean the VVT solenoid, (it was like now, hardly anything to clean, the filter was in good condition). Issue is still there.

2. Tried an engine oil flush, and refill with new engine oil, issue is still there.

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Nope, TPS sensor will show up with different issues. Possible you have extensive carbon deposits on the piston head / combustion chamber.

 

Did you pull the plugs out - give them a read? What did you use for engine flush? Usually I'll resort to that as a last ditch fix, not to diagnose an issue. As you've likely gathered from the various posts here and other forums - this particular engine is very picky about replacement parts, electrical noise, and oil quality.

 

What happens when you disconnect the OCV solenoid electrical connection when the engine is running - is there a marked change in idle quality?

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Hi fishexpo101, Thank you for the reply. :)

 

1. Yes, I replaced plugs recently about two months ago. I pulled them out and inspect them. They seems to be fine.

2. Yes, I did try the engine flush, had no luck with it as well. Rattling sound continues to come.

3. I tried different octane level fuel, there is no change in rattling sound.

4. When I disconnect the VVT solenoid electrical connection, rattling sound disappeared.

5. Further I noticed this sound doesn't come with the cold engine. It comes after the engine is warmed up, and if i try keep the rpm around 1600-1800 only. Above or below that RPM no rattling sound.

 

:)

Any guesses?

 

Thank you,

/ShaR

Edited by ShaR

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Hi Guys

 

Did anyone ever find a solution to this? no one has posted a solution that has worked. I am facing the exact same problem as mentioned by ShaR:

 

Further I noticed this sound doesn't come with the cold engine. It comes after the engine is warmed up, and if i try keep the rpm around 1600-1800 only. Above or below that RPM no rattling sound.

 

Please do let us know.

 

Thank you

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Nope, TPS sensor will show up with different issues. Possible you have extensive carbon deposits on the piston head / combustion chamber.

 

Did you pull the plugs out - give them a read? What did you use for engine flush? Usually I'll resort to that as a last ditch fix, not to diagnose an issue. As you've likely gathered from the various posts here and other forums - this particular engine is very picky about replacement parts, electrical noise, and oil quality.

 

What happens when you disconnect the OCV solenoid electrical connection when the engine is running - is there a marked change in idle quality?

Hi Guys

 

Did anyone ever find a solution to this? no one has posted a solution that has worked. I am facing the exact same problem as mentioned by ShaR:

 

Further I noticed this sound doesn't come with the cold engine. It comes after the engine is warmed up, and if i try keep the rpm around 1600-1800 only. Above or below that RPM no rattling sound.

 

Please do let us know.

 

Thank you

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Hi fishexpo101, Thank you for the reply. :)

 

1. Yes, I replaced plugs recently about two months ago. I pulled them out and inspect them. They seems to be fine.

2. Yes, I did try the engine flush, had no luck with it as well. Rattling sound continues to come.

3. I tried different octane level fuel, there is no change in rattling sound.

4. When I disconnect the VVT solenoid electrical connection, rattling sound disappeared.

5. Further I noticed this sound doesn't come with the cold engine. It comes after the engine is warmed up, and if i try keep the rpm around 1600-1800 only. Above or below that RPM no rattling sound.

 

:)

Any guesses?

 

Thank you,

/ShaR

Hi ShaR

 

Did you resolve this issue? What was the solution?

 

Thank you

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That would confirm it being the VVT timing gear... Does it sound like a diesel engine at all while idling? Can you let us hear it at 1600-1800 rpm as well?

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When I go up a hill in my 2003 Corolla CE, I press the little button below the button used to shift gears. This will disable overdrive (or enable it if disabled). I recommend this to all Corolla drivers in my area. You will have better performance going up. :)

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