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Rear Disc Conversion 7th Gen

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ok so im really looking for clear pictures of all and any corollas or other toyotas that have rear disc, i wanan do a rear disc conversion but not sure what car to take from, any ideas and pictures would be fantastic

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Easiest swap would be to get one off a AE101 Levin from overseas. Same body style - same generation, closest thing to a direct swap. Hard part would be securing the donor car - as these get scooped up pretty quick. Other option if pick up a conversion from Wilwood - get brand new hardware and would be a bolt-on affair. Downside with that - is $$$, last time I checked it was well above $800 for the hardware alone.

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some 6th gens have rear disc? hmm ya would prolly be cheaper to do it myself, cause 800 seems alot of money but i guess you pay for convenice ya know, anyone have pictures of a 6th gen rear brake setup

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Hard to find - just do a search for Wilwood 8th gen Corolla (brake parts are usually interchangeable between the 7th and 8th gen) and Sean2Sean (this is something that is not advertised on their main website/catalog - you have to contact them directly).

 

He really pioneered the aftermarket for the Corolla enthusiast - he was one of the first to go all disc, ran the gauntlet of problems with Stafford Engineering and their turbo setup, I think he was also one of the first to beef up the OEM transmission (automatic with Level 10 manual valvebody) and he may be one of the earlier ones to post a DIY on auto-to-manual swaps. Apologize in advance, if I got any of those confused with anyone else.

 

But he, like other before him, found that many were not able to dump $thousands of dollars in one shot. Pretty much the whole story with Corolla/Prism aftermarket.

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g'day,

 

my car (ae112r h/back conquest) is udergoing rear disc swap from a corolla ae102r h/back conquest. snap some pictures and done measurement on the donor axle carrier seems to be spot on. the good thing the donor car is not abs equipped w/c is same w/ my car and the master cylinder and the tubings set-up are similar. will keep you posted once i finish working on it.

 

rey t

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For those of you swapping to discs, you need to keep in mind that your proportioning valve was not likely built to properly disperse hydraulic fluid to the rear as well as the front.

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actually it'll release to the rear first, it trips at something around 100psi, which is pretty light in reality. its really not that big of a deal and is probably best left alone.

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Yeah, not much can be done other than a larger bore PV. I swapped in a disc brake axle in my jeep and left the stock prop valve and the brakes work quite well.

 

I just thought I would bring up the topic...

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g'day,

 

i have done an initial set-up last friday of the donor axle assembly on the car itself and it is pretty spot on. the hand brake cables bolting locations up to the hand brake equalizer is also spot on (just have to remove few fasteners on the middle exhaust heatshield and i can attach the wheels parking brake cable).

 

I have done cleaning and initial checks on the caliper assembly and found one of the slider pin and bolt is bent (due to mishandling during the transfer from the wreckers holding yard going to the disassembly bay i suppose) but i gone back to the wreckers and got a replacement from a toyota celica. also check for any signs of misalignment (none whatsoever) and the rubber parts are still acceptably ok but i will ultimately purchase a minor caliper repair kit to replace all of the rubber components. (luckily 5 years ago i got hold of a haynes brake manual which will be put to work soon). had also check conditions of the hub axle bearings and its quite dry and repack it w/ grease.

 

had ask a price quote for a Bendix general CT (ceramics) pads because the old disc pads is 75%worn out.

 

on the status of the rear disc rotors, when i got hold of the price tomorrow i will decide if i will reface it (actual measurement is 8.8mm/standard is 9mm/scrap thickness is 8mm) or purchase a new rotors. had check the lateral run out and its about 0.15-0.2mm.

 

if time permits due to my social and religious obligation maybe i will swap it this coming weekend or if not on the first week of july (1 week holiday from work)

 

rey t

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g'day,

 

did the brake swap this afternoon and it is actually a bolt off/bolt on affair actually. did it around 4 hrs (both rear wheels) but had leave the hand brake cable unattached and did the brake bleeding to see if it is functioning properly.

 

yep it is working ,but it engages after 3-4 kicks on the brake pedal which is abnormal. had re do the brake bleeding many times just to make sure air is purge in the brake lines and it is pretty good actually.

 

any suggestion about the problem?

 

i will visit the wreckers tomorrow to look for the donor car again if it is still there to get the master cylinder and the proportioning valve if the price is within budget.

 

pls visit this site autospeed.drive.com.au/cmc/A_2296/printArticle.html

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I'm pretty sure the parking brake cable length is slightly different and the how much motion it has to go through before it fully engages is offset. Even though the internal drum works like the regular drum, you have to "play" around with the cable to get it to work right.

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g'day,

 

when you get a hard pedal after 3-4 kicks it stays w/out sinking.

 

doing the same thing 3-4 kicks then start the engine and the pedal goes down slowly meaning the brake booster is doing alright.

 

p.s

 

sorry fish the handbrake cable is not an issue here. actually i done attaching the right rear up to the handbrake equalizer, but i think i need to slacken the handbrake adjuster more when i will attach the left rear.

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