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crypticlineage

Engine Replacement / Emission Repairs : Advice Sought

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Well the engine has not over heated once, the gauge stays in the middle once engine warms up. Also, I have been checking oil level every couple of days, so definitely no neglect there.

 

The mechanic wants me to bring back the vehicle for a full inspection tomorrow. He dropped me a line (sort of hint) that its not unusual for a used engine to burn that much oil. I was like, you must be kidding.

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Yeah, with all that you have alreay been through - I wouldn't stand up to that line. Consumption on the order of 1 quart per oil change interval is more likely for a tired engine - but a quart every 1000 miles is too excessive. what constitues excessive consumption? According to a tech here, it is a quart for 1400 miles - service manual has it at a quart every 800 is a problem. Switching to a synthetic or high mileage oil may help - as well as many engine oil treatments. That makes more sense as a temporary solution - since you replaced the engine - you should expect no less than a properly working engine.

 

Make the mechanic work the problem out - might even entail another engine swap at his expense. Let us know how this turns out.

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Well the engine has not over heated once, the gauge stays in the middle once engine warms up. Also, I have been checking oil level every couple of days, so definitely no neglect there.

 

The mechanic wants me to bring back the vehicle for a full inspection tomorrow. He dropped me a line (sort of hint) that its not unusual for a used engine to burn that much oil. I was like, you must be kidding.

Used engines do use oil, but they should never put one in a car that uses that much.

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Just got a word from the mechanic.

 

They found a small leak and have fixed it. They have also poured some sort of additive inside all the cylinders and let it sit overnight to free up rings, and they're doing an oil change.

 

Sounds to me like a temporary solution. If the rings are stuck, could they be rescued by additives or they must be replaced. Looks like I need to take another long road trip to make sure its not burning oil again.

 

Any ideas? I am picking up car in 6 hours from now.

 

Edit: He also told me that they did compression test and it was consistent across the cylinders.

Edited by crypticlineage

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I would ask if he did a wet/dry compression test and a leak down test. That would be the one of the first things I would check before I swap an engine - otherwise you could potentially swap in another bad motor.

 

Additives can help "clean" partially stuck rings - but I agree with your intial feeling - most of the time, this is only temporary. Be helpful to know what kind of leak they found - mechanic pouring additives into the engine is not unusual. Most do it to be safe and make sure that nothing else has snuck past them - but it would warranty double checking everything the mechanic does. If parts have to be replaced - as for the original ones back, especially if you have to pay out of pocket for those parts.

 

I would start monitoring engine oil levels at every fillup = make sure to note any oil loss and top off (remember - you only have a little less than 4 quarts in there already). Losing even 1/4 of quart is significant - as you reduce the overall oil system capacity - you increase the rate of oil consumption and oxidation.

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Just got the car back. When I got there, I asked for the compression numbers and the mechanic did a dry compression test while I was there. The compression is 100 PSI in every cylinder. Is that good or is it low? They have put on a new filter and fresh oil.

 

I am taking it on a roadtrip on Saturday.

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Bitter: Just noticed the same on Celica forums.

 

1ZZFE Minimum pressure: 145 psi

Compression: 218 psi

 

This is shocking. It seems that the guys don't have any idea what they're doing. They were cool about the compression numbers.

 

What should I do now? I wish I could just get rid of this car and stay car free.

 

Edit: Can someone send me a PDF or scanned image of the factory manual page on compression figures? I would like to take it with me tomorrow when I go see the mechanic.

Edited by crypticlineage

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Just got the car back. When I got there, I asked for the compression numbers and the mechanic did a dry compression test while I was there. The compression is 100 PSI in every cylinder. Is that good or is it low? They have put on a new filter and fresh oil.

 

I am taking it on a roadtrip on Saturday.

Where was the car leaking oil?

That compression number is way too low.

Your engine would not be putting out much power with that bad a compression.

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At 100psi, that engine is a total turd... nothing short of major rebuild work will bring back 118psi of compression..

Here:

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4332 <- tons of engine info

 

http://www.radphys.com/ARTICLE_ENGINE_COMPRESSION_CHECK.pdf

The compression check article doesn't mention that you should also disconnect your fuel injectors so you don't wash down your cylinder walls with gas while you do the test.

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At 100psi, that engine is a total turd... nothing short of major rebuild work will bring back 118psi of compression..

Here:

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4332 <- tons of engine info

 

http://www.radphys.com/ARTICLE_ENGINE_COMPRESSION_CHECK.pdf

The compression check article doesn't mention that you should also disconnect your fuel injectors so you don't wash down your cylinder walls with gas while you do the test.

Good information -

If the cylinder compression in one or more cylinders is low, pour a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder through

the spark plug hole and repeat compression check for cylinders with low compression.

¡ If adding oil helps the compression, it is likely that the piston rings and/or cylinder bore are worn or damaged.

¡ If pressure stays low, a valve may be sticking or seating is improper, or there may be leakage past the gasket.

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Update:

 

Before I went back to the swap mechanic, I decided to get a second opinion from my trusted mechanic. He personally did the compression test while I was there and found the numbers to be between 170 and 185 psi for the 4 cylinders. He and fish suggested I switch to 10W30 to reduce oil consumption.

 

Last weekend I drove the car around 300 miles and the about halfway through that had the 5w30 go down to the minimum mark on the dipstick, so I poured some 10w30 to see if that helps. After 300 miles, the 10w30 is also getting burnt. I haven't seen any smoke through the tailpipe at any speed. Apart from the oil consumption, the engine has been making rattling sounds as well.

 

So I wasn't real sure what to do this morning when I called the swap mechanic. He listened to me and said they will replace the engine once again at their cost. He said he'll get me a low mileage motor and will call when it is in. I certainly did not expect that, but that is re-establishing my faith in mechanics. The guy seems to be genuinely nice.

 

Hopefully the next motor will turn out to be good. He happened to mention that such incidences although not common, happen about once a year and its cool with them to do another engine swap. I told him I was sorry about their loss and glad that they understand.

 

I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the support.

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