Jump to content

Registered users (members) don’t see this ad!

Sign in to follow this  
tomservo

Putting In New Rings, Tool Questions.

Recommended Posts

the large difference between the dry and wet compression tests said all that needed to be said. that told right off the bat that the rings WERE NOT sealing to the cylinder wall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
trap

I am still trying to understand why you did all this work to begin with. Was your car burning lots of oil and you found that the rings were bad or sticking? Now that you have it apart, have you determined what was the cause of you needing to dissassemble? Did the car not run and you had no choice to do it when it is that cold?? It could not have waited for warmer conditions? Seems like you are getting some great experience and I would love to see your work in progress. Sounds like a very educating endeavor. Keep us up on your status.

 

Well, it was burning 1 qt every 80 miles, and I'm pretty sure that's not normal - my mileage is also pretty stank, like 27mpg highway. It's very flat here in north dakota, too. Also had one of the cylinders stopped firing for a while a few weeks ago, and that's not cool 60 miles from anywhere when the wind chill's below zero. Anyways, I'm not sure what qualifies at rings sticking - they all seemed to move okay, but then again they weren't compressed against all that crud and grunge in the grooves. No abnormal wear in the cylinders themselves, a couple of tiny wear grooves (less than what I'd consider normal) and you could still see all the original honing marks. Two of the rod bearings were thrashed, and I wish I could have had a shot at the crank bearings but I just can't take it that far right now. The valves actually look quite good, some carbon on the intake valves, some white crud on the exhaust. I took a couple pictures after reinstalling the head. Used a lot of brake cleaner and carb cleaner today.

 

Progress today: got the rings all changed, rod bearings changed, installed the pistons and head.

 

Tommorow: finish connecting all the crapola to the head (cams, manifolds, hoses, wires) and install the oil pan. Fill, and start. Not sure how far i'll get but I should be able to get er done.

So there was no obvious cause of why the engine burned so much oil? How did the rings look and if they were not bad, why did you change them? You changed the rings and honed the cylinders to get a better fit, right? What was the reason that one cyclinder stopped firing? Could it have been something besides the rings? When that happened did the car just run rough, or did it not run at all? Seems like you had a poor performing engine, but from what you described does not indicate much of a cause for it to be that way, except for two of the rod bearings being thrashed. Did you remove the head with eveything intact? I am about to undertake major engine work and I have little experience with it. I plan on following the repair manual of course, so that may help. I am hoping your descriptions will give me insight into what I should be looking for as far as bad or worn parts that may cause the engine to run poorly.

 

for the quantity of oil it was burning, considering that there was no visible smoke at startup (a solid indication of bad valve seals), the only possibility was rings or a leak - as there were no signs of seals leaking - and really the only area where a seal would leak is the seal by the tranny end of the motor.

 

so far i've put about 160 miles on the new rings - varying my speed as much as possible (i'm lucky i haven't gotten pulled over for erratic driving) so far no oil burned! the oil is just slightly off color when i put it on a white napkin - i can't expect any different with new rings, so we'll see how things go from here. mileage is already up - i stopped at 80 miles after a fill and put in 2.46 gallons - ~32 MPG - i can't complain with all the acceleration i did, and on winter gas. I went so far as to pull off at exit ramps every 10 miles or so to vary the engine rpm as much as possible. i wound it up to moderate rpms (no tach on this 3 spd auto) probably about 5000 rpm tops so far, and only very briefly.

 

as for your questions - the car didn't really run rough, i was driving on the highway and it just lost power in a massive way - when i pulled over i could feel it missing big time. i stopped at a gas station and turned off the motor, let it cool a little and checked the oil, fluids, hot spots etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OT: i drained my oil (7parts) atf (1 part) mix today and it came out varnish brown and smelled like ATF. it wasnt any color that ive seen oil before, it wasnt a normal brown or black, but rather the exact color of the varnish you see on engine parts...but darker like if you dissolved the varnish into a liquid. i would say that this has probably taken a bit of gunk out of the inside of the engine. has this done any good? dunno, it all worked just fine before hand. has it done any bad? probably not unless some of that gum, gunk, or varnish was holding my motor together (doubtful, its in good shaped for 118K)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OT: i drained my oil (7parts) atf (1 part) mix today and it came out varnish brown and smelled like ATF. it wasnt any color that ive seen oil before, it wasnt a normal brown or black, but rather the exact color of the varnish you see on engine parts...but darker like if you dissolved the varnish into a liquid. i would say that this has probably taken a bit of gunk out of the inside of the engine. has this done any good? dunno, it all worked just fine before hand. has it done any bad? probably not unless some of that gum, gunk, or varnish was holding my motor together (doubtful, its in good shaped for 118K)

I am wondering what my oil would look like after adding ATF and running it for a little bit. How many miles should I drive before it should be changed? I would hope that it could clean the internals of my engine and not cause any damage. I will give it a shot before my next oil change, but still would like to know how far to drive it after ATF is added.

Edited by Bikeman982

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i drove for about 40 miles, but people ive talked to do 100 miles with a full qt. i wasnt comfortable with that much in it and i didnt drive that long because i was just waiting for a spot on the driveway to dry out to just get it changed.

 

 

i didnt even have to lift it :) i jus crawled my skinny self underneath and had someone hold up the plastic skid pan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i drove for about 40 miles, but people ive talked to do 100 miles with a full qt. i wasnt comfortable with that much in it and i didnt drive that long because i was just waiting for a spot on the driveway to dry out to just get it changed.

 

 

i didnt even have to lift it :) i jus crawled my skinny self underneath and had someone hold up the plastic skid pan.

Did you also change your filter?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

of course i did! :rolleyes: its stupid easy to reach, right under the exhaust manifold. just reach down from the top. i even primed it with some oil before putting it on. :P im FAR from a newb when it comes to cars, this summer i'm helping my gf rebuild her saturn's engine which is rod knocking very badly in cylinder 2 or 3 from being ran with very low oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
of course i did! :rolleyes: its stupid easy to reach, right under the exhaust manifold. just reach down from the top. i even primed it with some oil before putting it on. :P im FAR from a newb when it comes to cars, this summer i'm helping my gf rebuild her saturn's engine which is rod knocking very badly in cylinder 2 or 3 from being ran with very low oil.

I might need you to come over and help me (with my son) swap out an engine in a 1994 Corolla. I am pretty sure I can do the swap-out, it is getting it to run after that. The repair manuals specify what to disconnect/reconnect but if everything seems to be where it is supposed to be and it still doesn't run, it is beyond me. Other than tools and a compression tester, I don't have any diagnostic tools. Oil changes are fairly easy to do, but major engine work requires some special abilities. Great to see that you are putting some of your talents to use!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just wanted to follow up, guys - ~640 miles and no oil burned! So I'd have to consider my efforts to be a success. :) Gonna do oil change 2 in the morning.

 

Bikeman: A lot of what a mechanic does is just stuff like checking all the vacuum hoses (you can do this before putting the engine in, where it's easier to get to all that crapola) and making sure there's power. After that, just start from the top - is there spark, compression, fuel... Especially on older engines (pre-obdII). Just don't let it intimidate you - in fact, in my haynes for the 01 rolla, there was a lot of good FAQ/diagnostics flowchart type stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great news tomservo - good to hear that you were able to stop the oil consumption. Keep us updated on performance (fuel economy up or down, drivability better or worse, etc.) after the repair.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One think I'd like to add is that the idle is all out of whack - it idles low when it's cold, then speeds up (maybe 1000 rpm?) and revs up when I put it in gear. I have the 3 speed and I've tried playing with the transmission cable adjustment, and haven't figured out what the deal is yet. I didn't move the throtttle cable at all during my repairs... any ideas? Otherwise it drives fine, barring a slightly pull to the right (all I can say is WTF, I didn't touch the wheels OR steering...)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i drove for about 40 miles, but people ive talked to do 100 miles with a full qt. i wasnt comfortable with that much in it and i didnt drive that long because i was just waiting for a spot on the driveway to dry out to just get it changed.

 

 

i didnt even have to lift it :) i jus crawled my skinny self underneath and had someone hold up the plastic skid pan.

Well I have added about half a quart of ATF to my oil and have been driving it for a few days. as soon as the weather breaks (like when the sun comes out) I plan on changing the oil and filter. I hope it shows some indication of a cleaner engine!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
One think I'd like to add is that the idle is all out of whack - it idles low when it's cold, then speeds up (maybe 1000 rpm?) and revs up when I put it in gear. I have the 3 speed and I've tried playing with the transmission cable adjustment, and haven't figured out what the deal is yet. I didn't move the throtttle cable at all during my repairs... any ideas? Otherwise it drives fine, barring a slightly pull to the right (all I can say is WTF, I didn't touch the wheels OR steering...)

If you pulled the battery off for some time - it will take a while before the car gets a baseline to adjust to. Also - I'd double check all the electrical connections to the throttle body, ECT sensor and wiring (would have been right next to the intake runners - behind the oil dipstick, and maybe give the TB a good cleaning to remove deposits that may have accumulated around the throttle plate inside. As long as the throttle cable is not hanging off - you should be OK - I'd check for a pinched jacket for the throttle cable, or if you have cruise control - bent or twisted up cables. Since the idle changes as you put the car in gear - it maeans that the sensors seem to be working. As for pull - I don't know - maybe caliper sticking on that side or tire could have lost some air.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just wanted to follow up, guys - ~640 miles and no oil burned! So I'd have to consider my efforts to be a success. :) Gonna do oil change 2 in the morning.

 

Bikeman: A lot of what a mechanic does is just stuff like checking all the vacuum hoses (you can do this before putting the engine in, where it's easier to get to all that crapola) and making sure there's power. After that, just start from the top - is there spark, compression, fuel... Especially on older engines (pre-obdII). Just don't let it intimidate you - in fact, in my haynes for the 01 rolla, there was a lot of good FAQ/diagnostics flowchart type stuff.

Thanks. I think that if I install a good engine and everything such as the vacuum hoses and all the electrical is correct, then it should start up right away. I know sometimes it might need a little tweeking (fine tuning) to get it just right. I suppose the most difficult part of the swap will be the remaval and installation part. After that it is merely insuring proper connections, power, spark, and fuel. The rest is internal combustion and normal system operations.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i drove for about 40 miles, but people ive talked to do 100 miles with a full qt. i wasnt comfortable with that much in it and i didnt drive that long because i was just waiting for a spot on the driveway to dry out to just get it changed.

 

 

i didnt even have to lift it :) i jus crawled my skinny self underneath and had someone hold up the plastic skid pan.

Well I have added about half a quart of ATF to my oil and have been driving it for a few days. as soon as the weather breaks (like when the sun comes out) I plan on changing the oil and filter. I hope it shows some indication of a cleaner engine!

 

I have driven for over two months after the oil change and it seems to be running fine. I have not noticed much oil consumptions (I did add 1 quart after 1100 miles) and will probably do another oil change after 1 more month or 3500 miles, whichever comes first. I plan on switching to a ligter weight oil, such as 5W-30W. I hope that improves performance or gas mileage a little.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...