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  3. fishexpo101


    As long as it goes away when warm - nothing much to worry about. The 1ZZ-FE engines are known to be exceptionally noisy, especially from a cold start with a car with some mileage on it. Mine sounds like a blender with a handful of bolts tossed in, until it just starts to warm up - then it quiets down considerably. Got over 253K miles on my 2002 (nearly the same 1ZZ-FE that is in your 9th gen Corolla). If that noise is really bothersome - and you've ruled out the simple stuff (loose exhaust pipe / cracked exhaust, etc.) - then you might try experimenting with different motor oil brands. Something like Mobil 1 synthetic is known to shear down with use, meaning that it gets thinner over time - but others, like Amsoil, Castrol Edge and Pennzoil Platinum tend to shear thicken - getting thicker with time. Have to experiment and see what helps with the cold running noise and which runs best in your engine. For mine - Mobil 1, Redline, and Valvoline Synthetic work the best - fuel economy and overall oil lifespan and protection (used oil analysis results). But something like Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol - noise is less, but my MPG tanks - dropping an easy 10-15% and off no additional protection (comparing UOA results).
  4. Guest

    How To Self-program Transponder Key?

    Have had success programming a duplicate on a 2005 Corolla using a master and an Amazon bought duplicate using the steps mentioned above. Very easy and no problems. You have to use a master key which is black, the grey key is a valet and has a different chip, I presume so someone you loan the car to can buy a key and Program it On the car.
  5. Nothing really new - just sounds fantastical. Cow poop is just another source for feedstock for hydrogen gas generation. Doesn't mean the car will run directly on manure, just like biomass and other similar sources, a factory captures the methane gas from the material and converts it to hydrogen - usually from a steam reforming process (lots of heat + nickel catalyst, splits methane into hydrogen and carbon monoxide). Most of the hydrogen in the world is manufactured in this process, but is extremely cost prohibitive unless generated at scale. There is also athermal reforming, but that also has some cost/gas generation issues that have to be addressed. Reformer cells could be a possibility - basically shrinks the factory into a space that could fit in the car, but you'd have to overcome a ton of engineering issues - right now those are just engineering thoughts / lab prototypes. Thermodynamic efficiency and dealing with waste contaminants is major issue with those.
  6. I got the ones on my 2009 Matrix XRS changed out all at once - the dealership told me that they were getting in small shipments pretty much daily to keep up. They actually changed the front passenger airbag (recalled) as well as the side airbags and curtain airbags (not on the recall - but was in a separate TSB that came out after the recall for certain VIN ranges).
  7. Usually, when an axle doesn't want to seat completely in (click in) - that is due to the c-clip being distorted and/or there is some dirt or debris that got into the splines and causing it to not be able to slide in. Because of that gap - looks like it is a distorted clip. Pretty tough to damage an axle when you install it - shouldn't be wailing on the axle with anything more than a rubber mallet, if you have to hit it with a hammer - just quick/light taps. Also double check that the depth of the splines match up to the original axles. I've seen some replacement ones that were just slightly longer than OEM - it cause it to not fully seat in place, even through the clip was engaged.
  8. Unfortunately, have to do some legwork with a wiring guide and some diagnostics with a multimeter - with issues like this, can be a huge number of things causing several fuses to blowout all at once. Could be a short in the main wiring harness, could be a faulty headunit or short in the clock PCB board, or could be a short in a seemingly unrelated circuit (ie, in some 7th gen Corollas, a bad taillight socket (corrosion) can cause the radio and/or cigarette outlet to blow out), etc.
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  10. hondaminhtt


    2004 Corolla 1.8L, hearing a rattle from below the engine when cold and in gear. Goes away when warm. I was underneath the car checking the exhaust. Sounds like its coming from the oil pan area. It has new belt tensioner, belt, and timing chain tensioner.
  11. hi i am new to this forum i hope i can get some help for my toyota corolla 2009 i recently replaced my passenger side cv axle and i cant get it flush to the tranny there is a small gap this is i already ruined 1 by hammering it this is my second axle please help i am attaching a pic of my problem please someone shed some light on it thanks in advance
  12. I have the same problem with my 2005 Toyota Corolla. I had the fuse replaced about 3 months ago because of the 3 things you mentioned, but they all just went out again yesterday. Is there anything that could be also drawing from the fuse making it burn out more quickly?
  13. I started with Plymouth, moved to Chevy, ran away screaming, back to Plymouth... but when my job was 55 miles away, I went to Toyota. Gas mileage, comfort, and reliability became very important! So was a high resale value.
  14. Pretty cool feature. I'd have thought that would be done by the computer but it's still cool
  15. I thought about it but still haven't bitten. I am curious about them too. I want a 6MT but no local dealer stocks them.
  16. January U.S. sales included a 5.5% sales gain at Toyota and 13% at Lexus, thanks to strong light truck sales, which rose by 11%. Traditional cars (sedans and coupes) fell by 1.1%. The Prius Prime, RAV4, Highlander, and Lexus RX all set records for January U.S. sales. The total was 146,244 Toyotas (up from 138,601 in January 2019), and 19,621 Lexii, for 165,865 combined. More Toyota news...
  17. I had this problem when I used aftermarket replacement starters. It took ages to sort out. Car would start fine when cold, but couldn't re-start if warmed up. turns out the OEM starter will hit slower, then speed up if a start does not happen, giving you a good start every time. Aftermarket starters will not speed up the spark, just the same slow chug.
  18. I posted all this stuff at https://www.toyoland.com/news.html - but here's the very brief U.S. sales summary for 2019
  19. Hello all who see this! I am new to this forum but i was an active member of toyota nation forum previous. Since toyota nation has become pretty abandoned i figured corolland was my next best bet. I have plans to turn my corolla into a track monster, rear-wheel drive conversion and everything to boot (in due time) but i have been struggling to find any information on aftermarket parts, what is needed to do rear-disk conversions and what all i will need to set up a proper turbo-charged 7age hybrid motor in my car. So i come here for help in finding answers to all of these questions. I have no time limit and no budget limit. All responses are welcome!!! Thank you to everyone who helps in advance!!!
  20. Yep, you're right. That's actually the correct way to identify and locate a bulb. But I prefer buying them online..
  21. Hi, were you able to figure out the root cause of the issue ? I'm having a corolla Altis with 1.8 1zz FE engine and exactly the same issue as you described above.
  22. Nice! Glad to hear you fixed this. Never hurts to check the easy stuff (fuses) before replacing parts.
  23. Thank you, it was the 100 amp alternator fuse was bad.
  24. Checked oil pressure, it's normal, even on the higher side. How to distinguish between rod bearing and wrist pin failure? How to check if it is a failed inner CV joint?
  25. I would check alternator. Battery is for starting, alternator is for running.
  26. Hello, I'm new to the forum. 2005 Toyota Corolla CE. ~210,000 miles. My Corolla had been running well, (except for the AC) Then it sat unused for 6 weeks or so. I tried to start it and it was completely dead. I had the battery checked out and charged and Autozone said it was a good battery. I checked, cleaned and tightened the battery cables. Checked as many of the ground wires in the engine compartment as I could find. I checked the fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash. I found 2 that were blown and replaced them. Now, when I insert the key, I get the door chime, but no dome lights. When I turn the key, the lights in the dash come on, the engine turns over, and sometimes it will run for about a second, but then it quits. If I spray starter fluid in the airbox, it will run for 5-10 seconds. I checked the fuel pump and it is working.. The other things that aren't working are the lights (headlights, taillights, stoplights), the dome lights (it does work when I turn it on, but not when the door is open), the clock, the radio, the wipers. Also, the shift lock won't unlock. I borrowed an OBD II reader, and plugged it in and it wouldn't come on, I suppose that means there is no power to the OBD port. There is no aftermarket alarm or anti-theft system. I have been under the dash, and I can see no frayed, cut or chewed wires and no other evidence of a mouse/rat.
  27. Guest

    Cam Rattle

    no its a little filter that is in the head... OCV. i did clean it and was dirty.. was wondering if it filtered oil going in or draining out of the head.. it was the rod bearings that was making the noise....replaced them and one was damaged. no noise now.
  28. Well, it would be fun to get it that final 2,000 miles. Maybe tow it across the country?
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