New To The Corolla/ Car World
Posted 16 April 2012 - 01:59 PM
Posted 16 April 2012 - 10:44 PM
Then there is a balance - with more power, you'll have to beef up the suspension, braking, even think of chassis stiffening/lightening/reducing unsprung weight to make the most of your modifications. What kinds of gains to expect depends on time/money. Same applies to engine swaps - there are several to choose from that will reduce the amount of fabrication on your part - ie, easier to swap in. But may not be easy to find in your area.
The 1991 Corolla is part of the 6th generation of the Corolla line. Depending on the country of origin and the market that it was sold into - could be considered an FX chassis, AE91 or AE92. You can lookup the chassis inditifaction from the VIN or look on the hood / driver's side door for the factory ID plate. It will indicate what chassis you have.
CAI or SRI intakes - depends on your driving conditions and what you are after. Generally speaking - CAI (Cold Air Intakes) have a greater chance for power generation - but with the FE heads on this engine, you might not be able to tell the difference between the CAI or SRI during most driving conditions.
Good things on this generation - parts are relatively easy to find, and you have a fairly lightweight car to start with. Like most Corollas, suspension/tire and wheels/braking mods will bring in the most changes for your initial investment. Can make even the stock engine "feel" more powerful if it is able to put more of the available power to the road. Bolt-ons have little effect on overall power - but can make the engine sound better and improve throttle response. Beyond that - you'll need a significant stock pile of cash and time to make big power gains.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 01:45 PM
Posted 20 April 2012 - 02:58 PM
This way, you are outlining the minimal amount of initial cash to see performance gains. Once you've dumped $3K or $5K into the chassis, wheels and brakes, etc what's another $10K-$15K for a properly built and boosted engine, beefed up transaxle, and all the tuning and replacing of broken parts that come with it.
Posted 27 April 2012 - 02:34 AM
Posted 27 April 2012 - 02:36 AM
Posted 27 April 2012 - 10:12 AM
Corollas are well known to have good handling potential, once you start tinkering with the suspension/brakes/tires - the chassis parts. With even fairly minor modifications and at the right track - they hold their own against hi-power, supposedly better handling cars. Potentially having an AE92 chassis works in your favor, as there is a huge aftermarket support for that chassis. Even it is turns out to be another chassis - lots of the parts can be interchanged to some level.
Once you get the car to a good base level - everything mechanically sound. Absolute best bang for the buck - start with the wheels/tires and brakes. Even on stock rotors and calipers - swapping to a performance brake friction material will make the car feel completely different. Want to run some light alloys - now would be the time. But even keeping with stock steel wheels - upgrading to a higher performance tire will make whatever power/handling you have - get to the road. My case - on my 2002 Corolla - pads set me back $70 (Hawk HPS), tires are Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position that are in the 195/60R14 size (stock was 185/65R14) at $60 each, some quality brake fluid - ATE Super Blue DOT 4 brake fluid ~ $15, to replace the old brake fluid (good idea to do this every other year) - Total = $325. I also replaced the rotors at the time, as the originals were pretty chewed up - got Brembo blanks (plain, vented rotors) for $37 each - OEM rotors were Brembos as well, if you are curious. If you have funds left over - replace the springs and struts. With mine, I wanted to improve handling, but don't want to ruin the already smooth ride - so I went with TRD springs and KYB GR-2 struts. The OEM struts are made by KYB, the GR-2 series were considered OEM replacements. TRD springs are hard to come by, but they are basically rebadged Eibach Pro springs. Springs I paid $80 (bought from another member here, new in box) and struts I paid about $75 each. Reused the original bellows, upper mounts, and spring isolators - just had to get a spring compressor (rented that pretty cheaply). All in total, less than $800 - car's handling and braking were completely changed. Looks like stock, rides like stock - but now I can stop more quickly with greater control, original acceleration squat and braking dive are pretty much gone, cornering speeds can easily be bumped up 10-15MPH with no sweat.
Posted 27 April 2012 - 10:34 AM
Okay so I have a whole bunch of questions about my Toyota corolla 91 sedan first off the engine it has is called an 4afe is that good? Should I try and swap it out? Of I should what engine . And next what can I do to give it more Hp make it more faster . And I know this is a noob question but is the Toyota corolla 91 sedan also called ae92? And should I add an air intake in it? Is a cold air intake or short ram intake better for my corolla please suggest anything thank you
OK, here goes:
Take some welding classes and some entry-level engineering courses.
Strip down your '91 to the unibody. Fabricate a tube chassis to accomodate a V8 rear-wheel power/drive train. Cut and fabricate a tunnel in the floor of the unibody for your RWD setup. Mock up dummies for fitment. Find an LS6/4L60E unit from a GM with a matching 3rd member (will probably have to narrow it), re-size and balance the driveshaft and mount to your new chassis. Get a custom radiator and wiring harness kit. After spending close to $10K doing all of this yourself you'll have the sickest sleeper on the street and own all the bragging rights among your cruiser clique. What's more no one else will have this ride, a genuine one-of-a-kind.