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Long-term Effects Of Oil Consumption


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#1 Rachael

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Posted 06 July 2008 - 11:51 PM

I have read through the very helpful FAQ about the famous oil-burning problem in 98-02 Corollas and other Toyotas. I guess my question is regarding oil consumption in general What specifically are the long term consequences of not treating this problem? I have been using Mobil 1 syn. and a mobil 1 filter every 3K, as this is seeming to keep the oil coming out very clean. However, I do still lose about half a quart between changes.

EDIT: Yikes! I am blind, I just saw the entire section devoted to this at the top of the page. Sorry mods!

Edited by Rachael, 06 July 2008 - 11:53 PM.

#2 Bitter

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Posted 08 July 2008 - 07:37 PM

1/2 quart every 3000 miles? thats pretty normal and minimal, even more so if you do alot of highway driving.

#3 02zx9r

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:39 PM

kind of a waste to use a good syn and filter for 3K intervals. that filter is good for at least 10K. I would take the filter off, dump it out and put it back on. and run it another oci and do the same thing if sticking with 3K intervals.

I would use a dino, pennzoil, havoline, etc... and the M1 filter for at least 10K for the filter. as filters get loaded up some they filter more efficiently

#4 friendly_jacek

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Posted 07 August 2008 - 08:14 PM

EDIT: Yikes! I am blind, I just saw the entire section devoted to this at the top of the page. Sorry mods!


OK, i'm blind. Where is it?

#5 twinky64

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 12:11 AM

I burn about 1 quart every 3000 miles regardless of the type of oil I use (syn or conv). Will continuing to burn oil like this do anything to my catalytic converter and/or O2 sensors?
Also, if a spark plug is not firing, will the check engine light turn on? Oil is getting past my rings and into the combustion chamber and completely coating my plugs. I was worried that this would cause electrical insulation between electrodes on my spark plugs and cause a lack of spark. If this was the case, I would get hesitation and misfiring and the check engine light should turn on right?

#6 fishexpo101

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 07:45 AM

1 quart every 3000 miles is within "normal" limits. You should not see any catastrophic damage to the cat or sensors - even in engines that don't seem to use any oil, a very small percentage does get consumed - the level doesn't seem to go down much, because it is pushed up by fuel dilution.

Correct, if you have a consistent misfire or dead plug - it will light up the CEL.

#7 Bikeman982

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 07:03 PM

I burn about 1 quart every 3000 miles regardless of the type of oil I use (syn or conv). Will continuing to burn oil like this do anything to my catalytic converter and/or O2 sensors?
Also, if a spark plug is not firing, will the check engine light turn on? Oil is getting past my rings and into the combustion chamber and completely coating my plugs. I was worried that this would cause electrical insulation between electrodes on my spark plugs and cause a lack of spark. If this was the case, I would get hesitation and misfiring and the check engine light should turn on right?

If you have bad rings, it might be time to have the top end rebuilt.

Edited by Bikeman982, 01 October 2008 - 07:03 PM.

#8 twinky64

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Posted 08 October 2008 - 08:58 PM

I resind my observation, my dipstick drops to half every 2 tanks of gas ~ 600 miles. I have 220,000 miles on my engine so I'm wondering if I should get one of those oil additives that removes sludge after 5 minutes of moderate idle; just before an oil change. Over the summer I've been driving about 150 miles per day for my internship. I noticed that over the span of 2 or 3 days, my fuel economy dropped from 37-40 to 30-32. The car drives fine, and the performance has remained the same from my perspective of things.
Everything is stock, except a CAI from EL Prototypes which has been on my car since Jan. 08. Also, just recently, my oil consumption has been increasing slowly. I was hoping it was oil rings so I ran Q syn lube and it didn't burn for the first 1000 miles (to be expected), but consumption resumed after hitting that distance. Any ideas?

Edited by twinky64, 08 October 2008 - 09:14 PM.

#9 fishexpo101

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Posted 08 October 2008 - 10:40 PM

When was the last time you checked out the PCV valve or plugs? I would double check the plugs for oil soaking / ash deposits - signs of oil making its way past the rings and being burned. Double check that the PCV valve is working correctly - if in doubt, just replace it - only a few bucks.

Also think about an used oil analysis - average price to get samples tested is about $20. I've used Blackstone Labs for my personal vehicles - good feedback and quick turnaround times. Dyson Labs is another one that also seems to be popular. Might want to hit the BobIsTheOilGuy forums and see what they recommend for UOA labs.

I say oil analysis - because there might be an off chance that the CAI is letting too much dirt into the engine. If that happens, its like running sandpaper down your cylinder walls - leads to some oil control issues. Could also be the ECM trending to bump up the fuel trend - the cooler intake temps and change in pressure past the MAP can trick the ECM into using more gas than it should - extra gas added to keep up with the denser air charge can wash down the cylinder walls - aggrevating a slight oil consumption issue.

Could still be stuck rings - can't tell unless you do a compression test and leak down test to verify it. I would really hold off on adding anything to "flush" the engine. With as many miles on the engine as it stands - without knowing a bit more information on what is going on inside - that would be a recipe for disaster. If you want to clean the engine - just shorted the drain intervals of use oils that are known to have better solvency and higher levels of detergency (dissolves stuff)/dispersants (keeps that stuff in suspension). Good examples are Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac. Some also swear by the ATF treatment - note that ATF has higher levels of dispersants than conventional oil but built off of a conventional base stocks, relatively safe to use for a short term flush. Those other engine flushes are basically thin machine oils or kerosene - will dissolve quite a bit of stuff but not provide much, if any protection. Very easy to wipe a bearing or get some metal to metal contact by accident - then you will be really screwed - use only as a last resort.

Keep tracking fuel economy - maybe try a different station, I don't believe that the winter gas is out yet. But that much of a drop in MPG - looks more like an O2 sensor problem than anything else. Might also be the root of the oil consumption - sort of on the same lines as the CAI idea - too much gas could lead to excessive fuel dilution in the oil. Thinning out the oil just makes it easier to burn - the case of running synthetic and having it hold up for a little bit longer initially - makes me lean toward the O2 being lazy. Again - the UOA will tell you how much gasoline is present in the oil, also looking at overall viscosity (see if it thinned out too much) or if the flame point is depressed (meaning it is easier to burn off).

#10 twinky64

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Posted 09 October 2008 - 02:45 AM

When was the last time you checked out the PCV valve or plugs? I would double check the plugs for oil soaking / ash deposits - signs of oil making its way past the rings and being burned. Double check that the PCV valve is working correctly - if in doubt, just replace it - only a few bucks.

Also think about an used oil analysis - average price to get samples tested is about $20. I've used Blackstone Labs for my personal vehicles - good feedback and quick turnaround times. Dyson Labs is another one that also seems to be popular. Might want to hit the BobIsTheOilGuy forums and see what they recommend for UOA labs.

I say oil analysis - because there might be an off chance that the CAI is letting too much dirt into the engine. If that happens, its like running sandpaper down your cylinder walls - leads to some oil control issues. Could also be the ECM trending to bump up the fuel trend - the cooler intake temps and change in pressure past the MAP can trick the ECM into using more gas than it should - extra gas added to keep up with the denser air charge can wash down the cylinder walls - aggrevating a slight oil consumption issue.

Could still be stuck rings - can't tell unless you do a compression test and leak down test to verify it. I would really hold off on adding anything to "flush" the engine. With as many miles on the engine as it stands - without knowing a bit more information on what is going on inside - that would be a recipe for disaster. If you want to clean the engine - just shorted the drain intervals of use oils that are known to have better solvency and higher levels of detergency (dissolves stuff)/dispersants (keeps that stuff in suspension). Good examples are Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac. Some also swear by the ATF treatment - note that ATF has higher levels of dispersants than conventional oil but built off of a conventional base stocks, relatively safe to use for a short term flush. Those other engine flushes are basically thin machine oils or kerosene - will dissolve quite a bit of stuff but not provide much, if any protection. Very easy to wipe a bearing or get some metal to metal contact by accident - then you will be really screwed - use only as a last resort.

Keep tracking fuel economy - maybe try a different station, I don't believe that the winter gas is out yet. But that much of a drop in MPG - looks more like an O2 sensor problem than anything else. Might also be the root of the oil consumption - sort of on the same lines as the CAI idea - too much gas could lead to excessive fuel dilution in the oil. Thinning out the oil just makes it easier to burn - the case of running synthetic and having it hold up for a little bit longer initially - makes me lean toward the O2 being lazy. Again - the UOA will tell you how much gasoline is present in the oil, also looking at overall viscosity (see if it thinned out too much) or if the flame point is depressed (meaning it is easier to burn off).

Awesome! I do have to admit though, during the summer my CEL came on as an O2 sensor trouble. I borrowed an OBDII reader and reset the CEL. Since I've done that, I have gotten no CELs.

#11 Jeepm@n

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 10:30 AM

Ok a quart of oil in 3000 miles? My 93 1.6l goes 4000 miles and does not use an ounce of oil at 170,000 miles. It gets mobil 1 high mileage and a new Wix filter. Do the rings just let that much oil thru them? I do not know. I do know when my Fiancee' was given her Toyota before her brother was going to junk it. It had a nice plume of pretty blue smoke. I immediately ran 1 qt of type F trans fluid with 3 qts of dino 5w 30. Let it idle for 15 minutes. I did this every day for a week straight. I DID NOT DRIVE IT LIKE THIS! When I did change the oil. I had gobs of sludge come out. I changed the oil again in 1000 miles and its as clean and golden as when I changed it 4000 miles before.

#12 fishexpo101

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 10:45 AM

Like they say - YMMV (Your mileage may vary). Some of the 8th gen Corollas have had issues with oil control from sticking piston rings and/or leaky valve stem seals.

Some cars just go through oil, Toyota doesn't consider it excessive until it runs a quart for every 1250 miles or maybe it was 1 quart for every 800 miles - can't remember. On my Camry with almost 300K miles, might use 1/4 quart every 5000 miles, sometimes less. Both my Corolla (152K) and Matrix (110K) don't use a drop before their oil changes - usually between 5000-7500 miles.